Chris From Central California

Nov 7, 2012
81
Hello, my name is Chris from California and I am a homeowner with 18 years of do it myself pool maintenance with 1st year issues. I let my PH get too low, went on a 2 week vacation and now own a green pond! Got the PH back up to 7.6 and now battling green cloudy water! I cleaned cartridge filters and just letting the water settle for a week. Chlorine levels are reading now at normal. Not sure if I sure add any algicide in right now but maybe I need to get water tested for alkalinity issues. I feel embarrassed.
 
Hi, Chris, Welcome to the forum. :lol: It sounds like you may have a misconception about how your algae got started.

Pool School, in the upper right corner, is a wealth of information. I would suggest starting there and read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" . Glad you found the forum and hope you will stick around :mrgreen:
 
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Richard320 said:
MonsterPoolMan said:
Okay here it is. My pool is milky cloudy now

FAC 3ppm
TAC 3
CH 390 ppm
CYA 150 ppm
TA 200 ppm
pH 7.6
It's going to stay that way for a while unless you do something about the FC/CYA levels.

What should I do? I have no drain on the pool, so I was going to purchase/rent a submersible pump and drain 1/2 of the water...............
 
MonsterPoolMan said:
Richard320 said:
MonsterPoolMan said:
Okay here it is. My pool is milky cloudy now

FAC 3ppm
TAC 3
CH 390 ppm
CYA 150 ppm
TA 200 ppm
pH 7.6
It's going to stay that way for a while unless you do something about the FC/CYA levels.

What should I do? I have no drain on the pool, so I was going to purchase/rent a submersible pump and drain 1/2 of the water...............
Study pool-school/pool_water_chemistry

Reread the how to perform the shock process article.

If you've mechanically removed as much crud from the bottom as you can, drain a whole bunch of water to lower CYA to respectable levels, then do what the shock process article says to do.

Maybe this thread will inspire you a little: first-time-shocking-with-bleach-t45074.html
 
Where did your test results come from? I am curious how the CYA reading was 150 when the tests max at 100. You likely need to replace more than half the water to get the CYA in check and then start to work on they other parameters ... using one of the recommended test kits.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)
 
jblizzle said:
Where did your test results come from? I am curious how the CYA reading was 150 when the tests max at 100. You likely need to replace more than half the water to get the CYA in check and then start to work on they other parameters ... using one of the recommended test kits.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)

From Leslie's Poll Supply............
 
UnderWaterVanya said:
Pool store tests are notorious for being bad. Read I'm pool school about the recommended test kits and get one ASAP.

Sent via Tapatalk...
In pool school, the kit that comes from Leslie's, it states that that test kit only comes with 5 CYA tests? Is that correct?
 
MonsterPoolMan said:
UnderWaterVanya said:
Pool store tests are notorious for being bad.
In pool school, the kit that comes from Leslie's, it states that that test kit only comes with 5 CYA tests? Is that correct?
Yes it is more economical to get the other kit. However, you don't have to test CYA often as it will not change without adding it or removing some water and refilling with water that doesn't have CYA in it.

Also you can do the test a few times using the same solution to confirm your results.

One more caution: Leslie's usually does not carry the right kit in the stores. They typically only carry the kits without the FAS-DPD chlorine test (not the basic DPD kit.)

Sent via Tapatalk...
 
MonsterPoolMan said:
UnderWaterVanya said:
Pool store tests are notorious for being bad. Read I'm pool school about the recommended test kits and get one ASAP.

Sent via Tapatalk...
In pool school, the kit that comes from Leslie's, it states that that test kit only comes with 5 CYA tests? Is that correct?
Yeah, 4 or 5, I think. Get the TF-100 from one of the links you'll see all around the forum. It's a bit more expensive but comes with a lot more chemicals. I think it's an extra $10 to get the upgrade that doubles the chems for the FAS-DPD chlorine test, which makes it an even better deal.

Also, CYA will be a monthly test or less once you get settled in, and testing anything but cl & pH daily is just a waste of chemicals. Those are the only two you have to worry about rapid changes once your water is dialed in.
 
Thanks guys! I found the other one on the net for around $50. I am going to drain 3/4 of my water this weekend. I love this site! 1st problem I had in years and I thought I was doing the right thing all the time! I will keep you updated.

One thing I found, for double the price of renting a submersible pump, I am just going to purchase one for under $90.

One more question, I never used liquid bleach or chlorine, how often do you have to put that stuff in once your balanced? Should I purchase a whole bunch like I did when I used pucks?
 
The shock process can take gallons depending on what's growing in your water, whether there's a lot of ammonia present, etc. Once you get your water changed out and start the process, you can watch consumption and taper off the buying when the consumption starts to decline. You'll want several gallons on hand when you start, at least.

However, once you've got things cleaned up, consumption slows way down. I'm using 18oz a day in my 14,500 gal pool to maintain my FC level, or a little over a gallon a week. That translates to less than $10 a month for chemicals, although I'm sure that will go up some in hot weather.
 

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