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Thread: Matt4x4

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    Hi All,
    Thought I'd also introduce myself since everyone else has.
    My name's Matt (like that's a tough one to figure out), the 4x4 is kinda self explanatory as well.
    I live in Ontario, somewhat in the middle of nowhere and like it like that - most times, I can be found in and around mudholes, claypits and forest trails.
    Outside of keeping the pool sparkling for my wife and son, my other interest are Wilderness Camping 24/7/365, Motocross, Mountainbiking, skiing, and generally anything to do with life outdoors - oh yeah, Muscle cars, drag racing and hardrock are also on that list somewhere. I also like to design and build stuff to make my life (and sometimes others lives) better and easier.
    We have a 30 foot AGP, built by myself about 4 years ago - anything you need to know WRT the construction of an AG pool, feel free to ask.

  2. Back To Top    #2
    divnkd101's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Pearland, TX (Houston Suburb)

    Welcome on board and glad you took time to introduce yourself. I am sure many of people will have questions for you. Thanks again.

    21K Inground Custom w/ Spa (Gunite/Plaster), SWCG, Hayward Northstar, Polaris 280, Hayward Color Logics, Jandy PS-8

  3. Back To Top    #3

    In the Industry

    duraleigh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Sebring, Florida
    For those of you who don't recognize Matt's username, he is a real pro on AGP issues. His posts are always informative and very helpful to AGP folks. (and general pool questions as well) Matt, good to see you on the forum....welcome.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

  4. Back To Top    #4
    Welcome to TFP! Glad to see you came for a visit!

    Enjoy your stay!

    8200 gallon 20' x 48" round vinyl frame pool,
    Intex SWCG, 12" sand filter, 1600gph pump, TF100 test kit
    Handy Links: PoolMath, TF-100 Test Kit, Pool School, Chlorine/CYA Chart
    "Shock" is a process, not a product!

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    Looks like this forum is really taking off - Thanks Sean, for getting it all rolling.

  6. Back To Top    #6
    SeanB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Missouri City (suburb of Houston, TX)
    Welcome to the site, and thanks!

    I've been pleased and suprprised, to say the least, at how things have just been taking off.
    TFP Founder

    My Pool: 13K gal IG gunite with 7' spa, Pentair Cartridge Filter, Intellichlor IC40 SWG, Polaris 280 Cleaner, TF-100 Test Kit w/ salt test.

  7. Back To Top    #7

    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    East Tennessee
    Welcome Matt
    Sorry couldn't help my self.
    Did you ever do the LED in to the Aquailumatior hull we talked about last year??
    I didn't get the chance but I have a dead bulb sitting on the shelf waiting for time this next winter.
    Echo Canyon II by Artesian Pools, 13.5 KGal AG Round, 22" Artesian Sand Filter 2 hp Artesian pump
    Med Lab Tech for 12 years in E.TN
    Chem testing by Trouble Free Test Kits

  8. Back To Top    #8
    krcossin's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Detroit Burbs
    I have enjoyed reading many of your PF posts Matt.
    2007 - 24' AG Doughboy Desert Spring dished 1.5', with DB Power Pak II-1hp pump, DB Sequel I Plus DE, Hayward H-Series Heater 100k + 8gal LQ.

  9. Back To Top    #9
    Medvamp - funny you say that, I was just looking into 12v AC MR 16 color changing LED bulbs with control yesterday - think I found one for 80-90 bucks (bulb only) has built in circuitry that works from the on/off switching to cycle the patterns.
    Most multi colored MR16 are DC only(at least that's what hte manufacturers recommend since AC seems to blow up their bulbs), although normal LED MR16's seem to come made for both AC and DC.
    With this particular bulb I found, it would be as simple as submerging the dead bulb assembly in hot/boiling water, this will soften the white glue you see through the lens, then with a towel to protect your hand from the hot plastic, it should just unscrew - with a 3/4" twist and pull off.
    The goop can be scraped off with a knife and you can reseal it all with new acrylic caulk or silicone when you've installed and tested the new bulb.

    Now that it's appart, remove the old bulb - not sure how much wire's in there, so it may mean gutting the chassis and drilling out the resin seal on the backside if the leads aren't long enough to get at it from the front only, retrofit the MR16 in there, wire up a couple of leads with connectors, either use 2 part epoxy or resin to reseal the rear hole, caulk the lens in place, let it all set up and connect to the existing power supply - should work in theory since the supply is 12V AC and that's all that's needed.
    Cycling the supply voltage would step you through the programs on this bulb.

    Since a replacement bulb is 40-50 bucks, I'm going this route for the extra 20-30 bucks once mine dies (it's STILL working) - I've never actually wanted something to break, but this is the one thing.........

    Links to the bulb that should work for this application: ... LIG-566224 ... atid=16859

  10. Back To Top    #10

    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Hi Matt! Nice to meet you.

    14,000 gallon, in ground, plaster, free form, play pool.
    Sta-Rite Max-E-Glass with a 1.5 hp Emerson motor
    WaterCo Micron High Rate sand filter S750 490 lb, 4883 sq ft - using ZeoBest
    In floor Polaris cleaning system
    Blue Diamond robot for those after storm days when I can't wait overnight for the in floor to clean it.

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