CYA is over 100

Nov 5, 2012
16
Columbia, SC
Help, I am new at this. I just bought the test kit. A friend helped me test my water (TFP member).
FC 0
CC 0
TC 0
pH 6.6
TA 60
CH 90
CYA over 100

My water is nasty green and has been that way for 2 months. My friend says that because my CYA is off the chart, I should completely drain my pool and start over with new water. Is that right? Since we are in Nov, should I put new water or wait until spring?
 
Welcome to TFP!!!

They are mostly right, although completely draining a pool can cause major problems depending on your ground water level and with a liner, you should never lower the water more than leaving at least 1 foot of water in the shallow end.

You can try the CYA test using a 50/50 mix of pool and tap water and then doubling the test result to get a little better idea of how much water needs to be replaced to lower the CYA to the 30-50 recommend range. Then just follow the shock process to clear up the algae.

If your pool season is over, it is completely up to you whether to deal with it now or in the spring. Personally, I would just shut it down, wait until spring, retest the water and then replace water as required. There is a chance that the CYA level might be reduced some over the winter.

EDIT: How did you get a pH reading of 6.6? Or was that a typo and it was 7.6?
 
Which kit do you have? None of the pH test I am aware of go that low. One goes down to 6.8 and one goes down to 7.0. In either case, you want to get the pH up into the mid 7s as currently it is too acidic and possibly damaging.

Am I correct that you have been using trichlor tablets to add your chlorine? If so, you need to realize that they are very acidic result in the lowish TA and low pH. And they also add CYA which could be how yours got too high in the first place.

I would suggest reading through Pool School a few times if you do not know this. It will help in your understanding of the pool's chemistry and make you better able to maintain the pool.
 
When we tested it, she said that she guessed that it was 6.6, because of the color change. She said it was less than 6.8. Yes, I am just starting this, so I WAS using tablets. I haven't used any tablets in over two months. I was mad at the pool and just let it set for a month and a half before coming back to it. So, what do I do if I decide to fix the water in the spring? Do I have to change the pH before spring and if so, how do I do that? In SC, how do I winterize the pump? I have never done that so I don't even know what that means. I just noticed today that there is a "winter" setting on the pump. I read in some of the threads about getting the water out of the pump...how do you do that? I am really a novice at this and appreciate your help so much.
 
Well, I do not know much about winterization ... we do not really freeze down here. Do you get multiple days with the highs below freezing? What does your TFP friend do with their pool in the winter (assuming they are from the same area)?

As far as the pH, it would be a good idea to get that back up before you leave the pool for the winter I think. You can use poolcalculator.com to determine how much borax or soda ash you would need to add to raise the pH into the acceptable level. You may want to raise your TA a bit as well with baking soda while you are at it to help buffer the pH over the winter.
 
kacreech said:
I read in some of the threads about getting the water out of the pump...how do you do that?
I would address your pool's pH first. Aim for a pH in the mid- 7's. This is important for the lifespan of your pool's surface & equipment. Now, onto draining pumps & other equipment...

Regardless of whether you choose to close/winterize the pool or keep it operational, I would take the time now to locate any drain plugs in your equipment. At a minimum, there should be some drain plugs on the bottom of your pump and filter. You may also have some in parts of your exposed plumbing. In my case, I have two drain plugs on the pump, one on the filter, one on the heater manifold, and another on the exit end of the backwash pipe. Draining these lines will remove the water from this equipment as well as much of the exposed plumbing where freeze damage is likely to occur first.
 

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kacreech said:
How do you add borax or soda ash? Do you mix it in a bucket with water and throw it in the deep end? Do you pour in under the skimmer basket? Do you do it a little at a time or all at once? Do you get it at Walmart? If so, what section?
Laundry section. Make sure you find Washing Soda NOT detergent and not baking soda.

Borax is best added by pre-dissolving it in a bucket of water and then pouring that slowly in front of a return.
Soda ash is best added by pre-dissolving it in a bucket of water and then pouring that slowly in front of a return.
 
Soda ash is added and I am so excited that my pH is 7.5! My TA went up to 140. I didn't test my CH. My CYA is way over 100. The level isn't even close to the 100 mark, so I am guessing that it might be between 200 and 300 maybe? I still have 0 FC, CC, and TC since I haven't added any chlorine. My pool is still very, very green and the winter is ahead of us, with temperatures at night usually at freezing. I guess my choices are: 1. Do I just keep running the pump all winter with this nasty green water? or 2. Do I drain the water out of the pump and drain some of the water out of the pool? or 3. Is there a better option I don't know about? With my CYA soooo high, at some point I am going to have to drain most of the water out of the pool and start over. I am thinking of doing that late spring. What do you suggest I do now?
 
I believe we have gotten away from keeping things simple and easy for a pool owner new to TFP. The discussion on CYA test dilution methods has been moved to CYA dilution discussion.

Since kacreech lives in an area that freezes, the best solution would be to winterize the pool and deal with the CYA issue in the spring.

Kacreech, to winterize your pool you will need to balance the pH, drain the pool below the returns, plug the return and skimmer (also main drain if you have one), blow out the water out of the pipes, and cover the pool. There are more detailed instructions for winterizing in pool school.

Since you will need to drain and refill to correct the CYA levels, you may as well take advantage of the winterizing process to do some of the work for you. Over the winter snow fall and melt cycles will dilute the water in your pool, and heavy snow may actually displace some of the remaining water in the pool. You will need to correct the CYA before you begin the shock process, so you may as well wait until spring.
 
I totally agree that closing down for the winter was the best option. But the pH had to be adjusted first since it was way too low.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)
 
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