Help. Whats this stuff?(video)

[marty]

Only shows up when filter is on, cant see any when off.
Have useed spa a couple times since i replaced water about 1 month ago.+new filter
ph7.4
cl 5.0
ta 90
ch is low, so is fill water at 4 drops till change, added spa ch up.
cya 30

[youtube:3l0egib2]Wpv7jWw47Bo[/youtube:3l0egib2]

 

[y_not]

My 1st thought when seeing that film is that it's from your chlorinating tablets in your floater, which the pump stirs up and makes that scum on the water surface through aeration.
To me it definitely appears chemical in nature, not organic.

What are you using in your floater?

Also what is your CH at as well as your water temp?
When did you start seeing this problem?
Just for grins, do you have any CCs?
What prompted the drain and fill?

 

[marty]

What are you using in your floater? spa cl tabs

Also what is your CH at as well as your water temp? 40ppm around 80-90 no heater except for once.
When did you start seeing this problem? when filter is on.
Just for grins, do you have any CCs? havnt checked.
New house, just wanted to have a fresh start.

Could it just be turbulence?
hey thanks

 

[UnderWaterVanya]

Marty - do you have a test kit that measures CC's? A FAS-DPD test is needed.


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[y_not]

Marty,

What brand and type of spa CL tabs are they?
IE what do they say on the label?
EDIT: Also, how are you performing the TA & CH test, as well as what does your fill water test at straight from the hose?

thx

EDIT:
Question for mods and spa experts.
I'm getting a CSI of -87 to -78 at a temp of 80-90f /w his spa numbers.
I know as the temp goes up, so does CSI towards positive.
Doesn't he need a higher TA /w CH that low, or else raise CH since TA is already up at a pretty good number?
But I see that TA would have to be a rather insane number /w CH that low, so I would think it'd be wiser to bring CH up, but how far in order to compensate for heater use?

 

[chem geek]

The spa looks like it's acrylic and the tile pattern painted and not real tile with grout. Without any plaster or grout, there is no need to have the saturation index near zero. Calcium carbonate saturation is needed to protect plaster or grout surfaces. It is not needed for heaters. Metal corrosion occurs from low pH and high oxidizer (dissolved oxygen and active chlorine) levels, not from a low calcium carbonate saturation. My fill water going through copper piping has a saturation index of -0.7 and though it has phosphates for corrosion control, that's primarily due to the monochloramine (used to be chlorine) which isn't moderated in its strength. In a spa with CYA, the active chlorine level is lower than in tap water.