Wanda and acorns

[hyperionguy]

I have searched many threads and haven't seen where anyone specifically addressed whether Wanda the Whale/Diver Dan will pick up acorns. I get quite a number of them.

Thanks!

 

[MikeInNH]

I have the Aquabug which is the same unit with a different shell. The bug dislikes acorns, they get stuck in the throat (#33 in the manual) so I try and scoop them up with a net before putting the bug in to do her thing. There is a piece that can be removed to open the vac whole larger but not sure if it would clean as well with it out.

Here's the manual. http://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/Manual254.pdf

 

[zea3]

If you are looking for a pool cleaner that will pick up acorns, the pool rover jr will do a good job.

 

[hyperionguy]

Thanks for the info!

I've been looking at the rover jr. today, just didn't want to pay so much. But then again... it sounds pretty cool.

I'm also a little worried about using a suction-side vacuum is that I already have to backwash fairly often. I'm thinking this would increase the frequency. I'm doing it about every other week, which is more often than expected. If I don't, the output gets quite a bit weaker.

 

[y_not]

I wouldn't do a suction side cleaner with that pump.
Which is what you were looking at, Wanda, Diver Dave, etc..
There have been experiences here on the forums by other users with the 1600gph Intex and it works, sorta. Bt suction is reduced and they tend to get stuck.
So I'd call that 'not compatible'.

The Pool Rover Jr. is powered by electricity. One thing to consider with it though, is that it doesn't pick up really fine dust like stuff. So things like dead algae, blown in dust/dirt, or other very fine and fluffy particulates. I'm sure it picks up some, but it tends to just make a cloud, as it goes waayyy too fast, with no way to slow it down.
So if you have this kind of stuff that ends up in your pool, I'd keep looking. The slower the better with a cleaner, it's not a race, but a job of quality and quality takes time.

Seeing as upgrading the pump isn't so much of an option, since you have an integrated unit and it sounds like you want to keep the cost down. I'd say stick with an electric or rechargeable unit.

When you backwash, what percentage has your filter pressure risen to above your starting clean pressure?
Also, how long have you had your sand filter unit?
If you have had it for more than one season, you should clean and resettle the sand bed. Not a hard operation, just takes a bit of time. Maybe like 1/2 hour or so, total.
Things can get clogged up in there, making the filter inefficient.

Check my signature for a link on how to do it. This should be done at the start or end of each season, whichever, so long as it's once per season.

 

[hyperionguy]

Hi y_not, thanks for the response.

After reading other threads and thinking about it, I agree that my 1600 wouldn't have the grunt to do it right. I don't want "sorta" b/c i'd end up fighting it which would waste more time than the automatic solution is supposed to provide. Do you vacuum old school?

I bought the 1600 figuring (with the 1.25 fittings) I'd be turning over the pool once every 4 hours and that would be more than enough. I just bought it this year, so it and the sand are new to me. I can't really answer your questions specifically because I haven't paid too close attention to the pressure. Ever since day 1 the pressure has been very near the top of the green zone but I didn't memorize the #. When the volume significantly decreased the pressure was barely different and also didn't come down much at all after backwash. About 3 weeks ago I enlarged the holes and installed the 1.5" fittings and naturally got much better flow.

Your backwash comments (and the sand filter cleaning link) have me wondering, as well as maybe helping me put 2+2 together. Normally when I backwash I run it for about a minute which is well beyond when the water looks clear, then I rinse for about a minute. However, early in the season the pool went nuts. I didn't realize how diluted my salt had become (and the subsequent imbalance) until within 2 days the pool went from crystal clear to having thousands of strands of what looked like (to pick the least offensive thing) snot drifting around the pool. It wasn't just on top or bottom, but floating at all levels and coating the over-the-wall skimmer and ladder like spider webs. After going through an intense session of shocks and continual pumping, it all cleared up in about 3 days after 3 backwashes. I'm wondering if the sand never recovered from that and I should have deep cleaned the sand. Hmmm. Maybe since then, I've had to backwash fairly often to keep the volume up because I've been "topping off" a screwed up sand bed.

Ever since that one incident, the pool has been flawless all summer with virtually no chemical intervention. I'm sure I'm wasting energy by running the pump/SWG 6 hours a day, but it's perfect water. I'll experiment next year with the new pool waiting in my garage.

 

[y_not]

Hi y_not, thanks for the response.

After reading other threads and thinking about it, I agree that my 1600 wouldn't have the grunt to do it right. I don't want "sorta" b/c i'd end up fighting it which would waste more time than the automatic solution is supposed to provide. Do you vacuum old school?

Sure thing.
Good call, frustration is never worth the cost savings.... EVER!! No matter what you manage to convince yourself of otherwise.
Yep, kickin' it ol' school man!!
I think I want a PoolBlaster Max CG.

I bought the 1600 figuring (with the 1.25 fittings) I'd be turning over the pool once every 4 hours and that would be more than enough. I just bought it this year, so it and the sand are new to me. I can't really answer your questions specifically because I haven't paid too close attention to the pressure. Ever since day 1 the pressure has been very near the top of the green zone but I didn't memorize the #. When the volume significantly decreased the pressure was barely different and also didn't come down much at all after backwash. About 3 weeks ago I enlarged the holes and installed the 1.5" fittings and naturally got much better flow.

It's possible you have a bad gauge, it happens.
Yeah, those 1.25" fittings, at least on my Intex aren't 1.25", more like 3/4" ID on the wall piece. YIKES!! Pathetic!!
Yes, 1.5" fittings... WAY MORE GOODER AND BESTEST!!

Your backwash comments (and the sand filter cleaning link) have me wondering, as well as maybe helping me put 2+2 together. Normally when I backwash I run it for about a minute which is well beyond when the water looks clear, then I rinse for about a minute. However, early in the season the pool went nuts. I didn't realize how diluted my salt had become (and the subsequent imbalance) until within 2 days the pool went from crystal clear to having thousands of strands of what looked like (to pick the least offensive thing) snot drifting around the pool. It wasn't just on top or bottom, but floating at all levels and coating the over-the-wall skimmer and ladder like spider webs. After going through an intense session of shocks and continual pumping, it all cleared up in about 3 days after 3 backwashes. I'm wondering if the sand never recovered from that and I should have deep cleaned the sand. Hmmm. Maybe since then, I've had to backwash fairly often to keep the volume up because I've been "topping off" a screwed up sand bed.

My backwash comments? Huurmpf, I don't backwash, that's bad!! It's nasty, like what you found in your pool nasty. HAHA Just kidding, couldn't resist that one.

Normally a messed up filter isn't really going to allow algae to grow, unless it just isn't filtering at all. Then it will definitely add to the problem, providing an environment where it stands a bigger chance of growing since there's more junk floating in your pool.
But it's the Chlorine's job to sanitize the water and kill free organic matter before it has a chance to grow into something lovely.
I must say, that is a very lovely algae that you described there. YUMMMM!!
Do you have any pictures by chance??

I'm betting your SWG wasn't producing enough CL for the demand of your pool at that time.
Your Intex SWG has a cell that produces roughly half the output of their older units, so you have to run it 2x as long to get the same amount of CL output. You should also disconnect the electrode to that evil copper unit. It just adds unwanted metals to your water, not a very effective algaecide either. Not in a pool and not at those levels, it just causes green water when you shock, scaling and green hair.

I would definitely deep clean the sand bed after cleaning up a mess like that. There could be all sorts of junk trapped in there.

Ever since that one incident, the pool has been flawless all summer with virtually no chemical intervention. I'm sure I'm wasting energy by running the pump/SWG 6 hours a day, but it's perfect water. I'll experiment next year with the new pool waiting in my garage.

I'd say that's probably about right with that SWG unit, unless you increase its output, then run the pump less. But it's probably all the same in the end.
Make sure you test FC just before your pump+swg turns on, it'll be at its lowest then and will tell you your minimum.

Are you running the recommended levels for SWGs as outlined in Pool School?
You have a FAS-DPD kit for testing, like the TF-100 correct?

 

[hyperionguy]

Normally a messed up filter isn't really going to allow algae to grow, unless it just isn't filtering at all.

I didn't meant to imply that my filter was a problem.

I must say, that is a very lovely algae that you described there. YUMMMM!!
Do you have any pictures by chance??

Yes, and it is gross.

"I'm trying to post google plus picasa pic, but it won't work"

I'm betting your SWG wasn't producing enough CL for the demand of your pool at that time.

You are right. I didn't realize that I had diluted down my salt level to the extent that it wasn't producing any meaningful amount of chlorine. Bummer.

Your Intex SWG has a cell that produces roughly half the output of their older units, so you have to run it 2x as long to get the same amount of CL output.

Yeah, I wish I knew that before I purchased. I thought it was a good thing to get the latest system with copper ion generation, etc.

Are you running the recommended levels for SWGs as outlined in Pool School?
You have a FAS-DPD kit for testing, like the TF-100 correct?

I am running the system much longer than suggested. I'll cut back. As for testing, once I discovered that test strips are Crud, I have been relying on Leslie's to test for me. So I don't have a good kit. That will change shortly.

 

[y_not]

Normally a messed up filter isn't really going to allow algae to grow, unless it just isn't filtering at all.

I didn't meant to imply that my filter was a problem.

Oh, I'm sorry. Looking back at what I wrote and re-reading your post that I was replying to, I'm thinking that I got it confused while I was typing, with another poster that had a similar problem with their sand filter. Not with algae snot though.
So I must have thrown that in there, while thinking about the other post a little. I may have a sick good memory, but I'm still human. YIKES!!

Naw, just clean the bed & call it a day in that dept.

I must say, that is a very lovely algae that you described there. YUMMMM!!
Do you have any pictures by chance??

"I'm trying to post google plus picasa pic, but it won't work"

Assuming you're using the "Img" button at the top of the post editor. I used Picasa as well, on the right hand side of the photo, not the album itself but the photo view. Click the "link to this photo" hyperlink, then change the "Thumbnail 144pix" drop down next to "Select size.." to "Large 800px" in the list. Now check the box at the bottom of that "Image only (no link)", now copy the contents of the "Link" box above, 1st of the 2 white long boxes. When you click on it, it's already highlighted blue, just right click to copy, or CTRL+C on your keyboard.
Now paste that in between the tag brackets and you should be good to go. You can preview it to make sure it's right.

I'm betting your SWG wasn't producing enough CL for the demand of your pool at that time.

You are right. I didn't realize that I had diluted down my salt level to the extent that it wasn't producing any meaningful amount of chlorine. Bummer.

Check these out: Cheap 1 & 5 micron Filtration Bags
Just rig up a pipe fitting to your backwash hose /w clamps, then hook this up to the end and direct your backwash stream back into your pool. Filters the dirty backwash into the bag and saves all your chemicals as they go back into the pool with the water. SUPER COOL!!
Then just rinse the bag out and wash in the washer as needed.

Your Intex SWG has a cell that produces roughly half the output of their older units, so you have to run it 2x as long to get the same amount of CL output.

Yeah, I wish I knew that before I purchased. I thought it was a good thing to get the latest system with copper ion generation, etc.

You know, I have wrestled with that myself, I don't own one, but was thinking about it.
I ultimately decided, who cares if it has to run longer, it's the same power consumption on the SWG side as the old one is 2x the power of the new one, so it's all the same in the end.
Plus if I buy an old unit, I don't get a warranty.
If I buy a new one, I do. With my luck, being a tech, things tend to break. HAHA
So the warranty is a good thing.
There is a unit with a separate power supply box that is the most energy efficient of them all, from 2010 year models I think. But it's super hard to find.

Are you running the recommended levels for SWGs as outlined in Pool School?
You have a FAS-DPD kit for testing, like the TF-100 correct?

I am running the system much longer than suggested. I'll cut back. As for testing, once I discovered that test strips are ****, I have been relying on Leslie's to test for me. So I don't have a good kit. That will change shortly.

Yeah, test strips are baaad! That's good you quit using them.
You should at least use your own pH and OTO block till then, as those numbers really vary by the time your water sample reaches the pool store. A clean, dark container filled to the brim so there's no air space for sloshing is best. An old hydrogen peroxide bottle works well, but make sure it's clean, clean, clean!!
Try to get your own kit as soon as you can, you know what we recommend right?
You'll be sooooo glad you did. A speed stir isn't a requirement, but it's soooo much easier in the end.
Test strips are decent for salt, the AquaCheck strips, but Taylor's drop based kit is better. It just has a hard to read endpoint on it. ChemGeek has spoken about this and tips on reading the endpoint easier. I can link you to the info if you'd like, just let me know.

 

[hyperionguy]

Thanks y_not! Although they must have changed Picasa a lot since you used it. The things you tell me to click on do not exist. The updated post-google + must have rearranged everything and move some functionality to the web. It's confusing now.

So here's the nasty stuff. I know how y'all love pics.

It is tough to see b/c of the reflection. A pic of one clinging to a step was the easiest pic to capture. Just imagine thousands of those suspended throughout the water.

 

[hyperionguy]

Check these out: Cheap 1 & 5 micron Filtration Bags
Just rig up a pipe fitting to your backwash hose /w clamps, then hook this up to the end and direct your backwash stream back into your pool. Filters the dirty backwash into the bag and saves all your chemicals as they go back into the pool with the water. SUPER COOL!!
Then just rinse the bag out and wash in the washer as needed.

Seriously? Sounds odd. Which size works best?

Yeah, test strips are baaad! That's good you quit using them.

I decided to take a sample to the pool store when the strip results simply made no sense. I never knew how bad they were. Live and learn!

You should at least use your own pH and OTO block till then, as those numbers really vary by the time your water sample reaches the pool store. A clean, dark container filled to the brim so there's no air space for sloshing is best. An old hydrogen peroxide bottle works well, but make sure it's clean, clean, clean!!

Ha, I did it all wrong. I used their free sample bottle, which is clear plastic. I filled it not quite to the brim then literally tossed it into the car. So much for sloshing.

Try to get your own kit as soon as you can, you know what we recommend right?
You'll be sooooo glad you did. A speed stir isn't a requirement, but it's soooo much easier in the end.
Test strips are decent for salt, the AquaCheck strips, but Taylor's drop based kit is better. It just has a hard to read endpoint on it. ChemGeek has spoken about this and tips on reading the endpoint easier. I can link you to the info if you'd like, just let me know.

I do know. Most likely I'll get the TF100. Seems like a bit of overkill for a small pool, but oh well.

Link to chemgeek please. I searched all forms of chemgeek and find nothing, even *chemgeek*.

Thanks again!

 

[UnderWaterVanya]

Link to chemgeek please. I searched all forms of chemgeek and find nothing, even *chemgeek*.

chem geek not chemgeek - he's a regular here and has some pretty deep pool chemistry threads.

 

[y_not]

Check these out: Cheap 1 & 5 micron Filtration Bags

Seriously? Sounds odd. Which size works best?

Just depends on how much dirt you're dealing with, as well as how much waterflow. Buy the polyester bags, they say they're one use bags but many people just rinse them out immediately and reuse them just fine.
Geekgranny washes hers in a cold+gentle cycle with vinegar, she says it cleans the pores out well. Vinegar is an awesome cleaner, but do rinse them and get them as clean as you can 1st before washing.
I would not put them in the dryer, they can only handle a temp of 275-300F. So just let them air dry.

I haven't even bought one myself, but plenty of people on this fine forum have them, or other similar bags purchased elsewhere. But I'm a deal hunter, I compared all the shipping + bag costs and these are the cheapest.
I have read about quite a few people redirecting backwash into their pool with these.
If I ever build an in-ground pool, I'll be plumbing in a system just for this purpose.

What I would do is purchase a 1 micron bag for "polishing" your water, or you can use DE/Cellulose in your sand filter. But the bags clean better than DE does and will likely grab things that pass by the cellulose cake on top of your sand bed.
Then I would buy a 25 micron bag, maybe 10 micron for doing the backwash into, or 1 of each. Since a sand filter only goes down to about 50 microns or so, this will minimize excessive clogging.
You could even slip the larger micron bag inside the finer micron bag, the former will be a 1st line of defense for catching the big stuff, leaving the smaller filter to catch the smaller stuff without clogging so quickly.

Really you'll just have to experiment as every pool and what ends up in it is different.

Longer seems better as it has more surface area to catch it all as well as hold what it catches.

This may help: SlimeBag for 1/10 of the price, yes you can!

Yeah, test strips are baaad! That's good you quit using them.

I decided to take a sample to the pool store when the strip results simply made no sense. I never knew how bad they were. Live and learn!

Good call.

You should at least use your own pH and OTO block till then, as those numbers really vary by the time your water sample reaches the pool store. A clean, dark container filled to the brim so there's no air space for sloshing is best. An old hydrogen peroxide bottle works well, but make sure it's clean, clean, clean!!

Ha, I did it all wrong. I used their free sample bottle, which is clear plastic. I filled it not quite to the brim then literally tossed it into the car. So much for sloshing.

See, that's about what I would have done too, before finding this site that is and learning about it and the science behind the sloshing. Except I would have used a mason jar. LOL
Yup, live and learn.

Try to get your own kit as soon as you can, you know what we recommend right?
You'll be sooooo glad you did. A speed stir isn't a requirement, but it's soooo much easier in the end.
Test strips are decent for salt, the AquaCheck strips, but Taylor's drop based kit is better. It just has a hard to read endpoint on it. ChemGeek has spoken about this and tips on reading the endpoint easier. I can link you to the info if you'd like, just let me know.

I do know. Most likely I'll get the TF100. Seems like a bit of overkill for a small pool, but oh well.

Yes, test kit gooood. Trust me, it's not overkill at all. Just seems like it until you get it, then you'll see how useful it is.
I almost thought the same thing when I bought mine. But I easily fall for scientific gadgets, toys and geeky things. But I'm always skeptical right up front and as lots of questions and learn lots before I dive in.

Link to chemgeek please. I searched all forms of chemgeek and find nothing, even *chemgeek*.

OOPS, forgot the space. =\
Here's the link, Chem Geek is super awesome BTW. Very helpful, but very geeky too.
Accuracy strips vs. drops (TDS & Salt)

Lots of things to read in that thread too, but the link takes you straight to his post.

Thanks again!

Of course, my pleasure!
Thanks for listening.