Autopilot DIG-220 Check/Clean Cell

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sobr0716

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Oct 1, 2012
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I hope someone can help. I have a DIG-220 (Autopilot) and am getting the check/clean cell warning with a flashing red light. I have replaced the cell and am still getting the message. I have calibrated the salt. Still getting it. Volts are 14v amps are 3.7a

Any suggestions? It is still producing chlorine.

Thanks, Mark
 
Poolsean said:
The amps and volts are suggesting that either you're only recieving 110 volts to a unit internally wired to accept 220 volts, or a damaged power module.
Click to expand...

I recently replaced the pool pump. I have not changed ant other wiring. The dig-220 is wired to the timer. Is it possible that the pool pump could be causing the issue?

Thanks, Mark
 
Like member sobr0716, I just replaced my cell with a RC35/22. and I am still getting the Check/ Clean Cell warning.
Testing gives Power level 1, 15V 3.8 Amps. System is wired for 220 v and multimeter reads 232 v with no load.

Previously had trouble with system randomly going "off for service" which seems to have been solved by replacing the relay.

Is there some definitive test using multimeter or otherwise to check the power module or system board?

Please help.
 
Since you've verified the voltage to be 220 volts, it's not a supply voltage issue. However, it may be a damaged power module...as already mentioned. Repair for this is a replacement #16084 power module. There are some here that has replaced the capacitors on the power module and resoved the issues, but I would not encourage that.

Verify your salt levels and ensure your cell is clean of any scale. If your water temperature is below 65 degrees, bump the salt level up to 3500 - 4000 ppm.
These are the main reasons for the Check/Clean Cell error message. But if the voltage is on the low side (it's normal for it to increase when conditions are not optimal), it's usually a damaged power module.
 
Thanks Poolsean,
I am located in the Caribbean and the temp is not an issue (mid 80's)
Salt is currently at 2900 ppm verified with Taylor salt test kit.

I just opened up the system to see what's going on.
There are 4 bulging and discolored capacitors on the power board. C1, C26, C27 and C28. Each is rated at 1000 uF 50v
There are no other visibly damaged components or regions on the board.

There is a local agent on island who was the one who suggested and provided replacement relay for earlier problem. Not sure if a replacement power board is available though; i'll check tomorrow.

In the interest of time and cost, I will attempt to replace the capacitors and see what happens.
Will post the outcome.
 
This shows the bulging caps. The 3 on the upper left and the upper of the 2 to the right of those. Note the color compared to the light blue of the undamaged cap.

IMG-20121003-00095.jpg
 
I've spent some time reviewing this subject on TFP.

Found several instances and photos posted.

Seems like this is a known problem which Poolsean promised to take up with the engineering department from back in 2009 to see if there was a pattern.

Well there is a pattern. It is always the same 4 caps; C1, C26, C27, C28

Caps seem to fail and bulge initially and if unknowingly left to progress then perhaps the ooze starts to short out other components or the board tracers. (there was 1 photo where C1 was totally disintegrated)

This is clearly improper rated or quality capacitor issues and Autopilot should acknowledge this instead of trying to sell us expensive replacement power boards that will perhaps suffer the same fate in a couple years through no fault of ours.
 
I purchased some replacement capacitors from Ebay and installed them on the power module board.

The system went back to its happy self; now self testing at 20 Volts 6.5 Amps for power level 2. Was quite an easy fix taking about 40 minutes from shut down of the system through opening up the cabinet, removing power board, replacing caps and putting it all together again.

New caps $8:20, New power module $385.00, New control unit: $580.00, Feeling from savings realized: Priceless!

Heres a photo with the new caps installed.
Untitled_zps6f0f20f0.jpg
 

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I know this is an old thread but just saved me a ton of money. Thanks for the pictures, same bulging capacitors. I took board off myself and ordered the replacement capacitors for $8 from Amazon. I am not comfortable soldering so I called a tv repair guy and he changed the 5 I needed for $25 so total of $33 in this repair instead of what I was looking at nearly $700 to replace entire DIG220.
Thanks for the help and I'm glad I joined this group.
 
bahamabob,

The line about ebay is a hyperlink, so just click on it and it will take you to the item which is still available on ebay today.
Just had to change the fifth capacitor of the group shown in the photos as the system started giving a different error message 3 years now since last repair. This time the message was "purifier Off".
There is another capacitor of the same spec located at the right side of the board that is not shown in my photographs.
Recommend that you swap that out at the same time.
Bottom line is that you need 6 of those for the power board and 1 for the control board when that time comes. Control board one is actually 1000uf, 16 v. those are 1000uf, 50v and don't fit the space on the control board. have to improvise!
 
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