The two bolts connecting the board to the base are rusted and need to be replaced. I was able to remove the board from the base but I can't remove the bolts from the board because they are severely rusted and stuck to the board. It appears that the rusting/erosion of the bolts has adhered them to the board. I'm leery of trying too hard to remove the bolts because I don't want to damage the board. Is there any way to remove the bolts without damaging the board beyond future use?
Bolts rusted and stuck to board
- Thread starter cadmonkey17
- Start date
y_not
0
Welcome to the forum. 
Maybe I'm missing something, but what board are you referring to? A pcb on a controller? There are ways of freeing the bolts but it depends on what you have. Are they sxrews or bolt heads and what size?
Maybe I'm missing something, but what board are you referring to? A pcb on a controller? There are ways of freeing the bolts but it depends on what you have. Are they sxrews or bolt heads and what size?
How about a picture?
I'm curious if they are carriage bolts that go through the board, or if the board has threaded inserts that the bolts screwed into.
If inserts, there are two penetrating solvents that I've had fantastic luck with over the years as an auto mechanic. One is called Kroil. You might have to hunt for it at independent auto parts stores. The other is called Break-free. You might find it at parts stores or gun shops. Let it soak in for a couple days, then try unscrewing the bolt. Sometimes tapping it with a hammer will loosen the hold after the rust has been soaked.
If none of that works, then a few hours with some sharp drill bits and some helicoils should fix it.
I'm curious if they are carriage bolts that go through the board, or if the board has threaded inserts that the bolts screwed into.
If inserts, there are two penetrating solvents that I've had fantastic luck with over the years as an auto mechanic. One is called Kroil. You might have to hunt for it at independent auto parts stores. The other is called Break-free. You might find it at parts stores or gun shops. Let it soak in for a couple days, then try unscrewing the bolt. Sometimes tapping it with a hammer will loosen the hold after the rust has been soaked.
If none of that works, then a few hours with some sharp drill bits and some helicoils should fix it.
y_not
0
You can also use a freeze spray, also available at auto parts stores.
If you're cheap, like me & hate paying sooo much money for a can of liquid coolant, you could use a can of canned air, the kind for dusting out computers, turn it upside down & blast away. It's about -350F!!
It's the same thing as the automotive stuff, but colder by about 300deg and they put a bittering agent in it now to keep people from huffing it to get high. Like that'll stop 'em. HA!
So wear a chemical respirator/disposable mask, or put up with the bitter taste for about a day. IT'S HORRID!! Nothing I have found removes it from your mouth.
Now if you're a real freaking genius, or ultra nerd.
You can place a sopping wet rag, soaked in a kOH/NaOH solution over the bolts and setup an electolysis system to clean the rust enough to free the bolts. If your bolts aren't too big, and you do one at a time, you might get away with just using a big cell 9v/12v battery, or a small ATV/Motorcycle battery.
HEHE! Works like a champ.
Remember, anode corodes(collects), cathode releases (cleans). So make your bolt the negative, cathode.
I almost drove our entire Ford Exploder into a vat of Lye & Rods /w a big honking Power Supply!! *Tim The Tool Man Taylor Roo Rooo Roooo!!!*
But decided to just clean each part as needed.
If you're cheap, like me & hate paying sooo much money for a can of liquid coolant, you could use a can of canned air, the kind for dusting out computers, turn it upside down & blast away. It's about -350F!!
It's the same thing as the automotive stuff, but colder by about 300deg and they put a bittering agent in it now to keep people from huffing it to get high. Like that'll stop 'em. HA!
So wear a chemical respirator/disposable mask, or put up with the bitter taste for about a day. IT'S HORRID!! Nothing I have found removes it from your mouth.
Now if you're a real freaking genius, or ultra nerd.
You can place a sopping wet rag, soaked in a kOH/NaOH solution over the bolts and setup an electolysis system to clean the rust enough to free the bolts. If your bolts aren't too big, and you do one at a time, you might get away with just using a big cell 9v/12v battery, or a small ATV/Motorcycle battery.
HEHE! Works like a champ.
Remember, anode corodes(collects), cathode releases (cleans). So make your bolt the negative, cathode.
I almost drove our entire Ford Exploder into a vat of Lye & Rods /w a big honking Power Supply!! *Tim The Tool Man Taylor Roo Rooo Roooo!!!*
But decided to just clean each part as needed.
y_not
0
Just-a-PB said:
I thought about suggesting that, but then realized we're dealing with a polymer. So I think that's a bad idea, because that bolt is going to get raging hot, even if you shield around it and it will melt the board inside the hole at the very minimum, unless it can withstand temps of 600+, which I doubt.
- Jun 20, 2012
- 439
Assuming those are through bolts they should come right out with a few taps of a hammer. What does the other side of the board look like?
They are through bolts but they are stuck. I have hit them extremely hard with a 10 lb sledge and they didn't budge. The other side (top) is rusted also. I will take a pic later and post it.
- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,668
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
y_not
0
There is a few ways going about doing this.
First of all the bolts that tend to spin when rusted solid are the style that have the bolt run through a plastic ring, the ring is supposed to provide friction against the board when coupled with a rubber washer thingy. So what happens is the bolt is rusted so bad that the plastic ring will spin on the board as opposed to providing something to hold the bolt in place while the nut is unscrewed.
1. Use lots of lube like pb buster etc and let it sit.. sometimes you'll get lucky
2. Depending on the style of board and access to the nut, you can take 2 more nuts and screw them onto the bolt you then tighten the 2 new nuts together and this locks them into place. You then use these 2 nuts with a ratchet to keep the bolt from spinning as you apply torque to the stuck nut. (this isn't often a solution)
3. you can have someone life the board off it's base as this will apply more friction to the bolt assembly, sometimes the extra friction is enough to overcome the stuck nut. Sometimes the bolt will still spin though.
4.This method will always work but is slightly destructive. Using a hammer and chisel; destroy the plastic washer thingy on top of the diving board. When this plastic washer is destroyed and removed there will be enough of the bolt sticking out of the board to either use channel locks or a wrench to keep the bolt locked into place while you apply massive torque to the stuck nut. Use caution as sometimes the bolt will twist off before the nut releases and you can get hurt the tension suddenly gives.
4.b. After the board is free replace the old bolts with SS versions of the bolt and use plenty of anti-seize when installing the new bolts.. don't forget to buy new plastic washer things.
First of all the bolts that tend to spin when rusted solid are the style that have the bolt run through a plastic ring, the ring is supposed to provide friction against the board when coupled with a rubber washer thingy. So what happens is the bolt is rusted so bad that the plastic ring will spin on the board as opposed to providing something to hold the bolt in place while the nut is unscrewed.
1. Use lots of lube like pb buster etc and let it sit.. sometimes you'll get lucky
2. Depending on the style of board and access to the nut, you can take 2 more nuts and screw them onto the bolt you then tighten the 2 new nuts together and this locks them into place. You then use these 2 nuts with a ratchet to keep the bolt from spinning as you apply torque to the stuck nut. (this isn't often a solution)
3. you can have someone life the board off it's base as this will apply more friction to the bolt assembly, sometimes the extra friction is enough to overcome the stuck nut. Sometimes the bolt will still spin though.
4.This method will always work but is slightly destructive. Using a hammer and chisel; destroy the plastic washer thingy on top of the diving board. When this plastic washer is destroyed and removed there will be enough of the bolt sticking out of the board to either use channel locks or a wrench to keep the bolt locked into place while you apply massive torque to the stuck nut. Use caution as sometimes the bolt will twist off before the nut releases and you can get hurt the tension suddenly gives.
4.b. After the board is free replace the old bolts with SS versions of the bolt and use plenty of anti-seize when installing the new bolts.. don't forget to buy new plastic washer things.