Do not pour your bleach directly into the skimmer. It's too high of a concentration of chlorine and can ruin seals, impellers as well as other moving parts.
Instead, pour your bleach in front of a return, water exiting from the pump+filter back into the pool, with the pump running. Brush the sides of the pool and bottom where you poured it, to be sure none has settled there where it can potentially cause damage to the pool surface(s). Keep the pump running for at least 30min to allow it to all circulate.
Regarding your FC levels of CL, it is impossible to recommend how much or how little to use without knowing your CYA. It sequesters your chlorine and locks it from being consumed by the sun, so only a certain, small percentage is actually available to be used to oxidize organics in your pool. IE. Algae.
If you can't buy the TF100 kit right now, I perfectly understand. I had to wait almost a month to buy mine, no money.
Do plan for it though and budget it in, in the meantime, we can at least get you a rough idea by having you take a sample to a pool store. Most pool store testing is very inaccurate and horribly misleading anyway, but it's better than nothing. If you can find a pool store that will do a turbidimetric CYA test using a fill tube and a reagent that makes the solution cloudy, obscuring a dot at the bottom of the tube, indicating a certain point on the tube where the dot fully disappears, and that's the CYA number. Then take it to them, that'll be perfect so long as they do it in direct sun with their back to the sun and the tube at eye level. Computer based tests are, surprisingly, horribly inaccurate.
But the DPD test you have isn't accurate enough to determine how much CL loss you are getting from consumption by organics present in your pool. You can get a rough idea on dosing it, it's far better than OTO for readability, but you'll never be able to perform the OCLT of 1.0ppm or less without the FAS-DPD kit. You can almost never find these locally, they have to purchased online. You could go buy just that by itself and it would be much cheaper, you can also buy the smaller TF50 kit, which doesn't have the OTO/pH block, so this should be fine as you already have a pH block. The Taylor pH block is the industry standard for accuracy and easiness to read, I can attest to this, but you could still get bye with your pH block and when you want a nicer one, upgrade to the Taylor for about $10-15 bones.
The TF50 is smaller, in it's number of tests it can perform, but it does have all the tests and is still a good value. While shocking, you may or may not run out of FAS-DPD titrant, if you do, you can always order more.
Hope that helps, let us know what you come out with on a CYA result and how they did the test. I'd suggest multiple places for an average if you can't find the above recommended test method at any of the shops.
Oh, and ignore anything they tell you and don't buy anything there.
When you take your sample, grab it away from a return, near an inlet and use a very clean bottle. An old hydrogen peroxide bottle is good as you want it opaque so the sample is protected from light. Fill it all the way to the top so it doesn't slosh around, this can effect the sample. Keep it away from direct heat & sunlight as well as cold conditions, IE. don't run your AC in the car much. You don't want your sample getting colder or hotter than it was in the pool, as much as possible.
