Cloudy water and high salt

[Sum12B]

After reading so many recommendations, I got my tf-100 and Taylor salt test kit today. the results are as follows.
FC=10
CC=1
TA=110
CH=200
CYA=80
Salt=4600?

Does the salt reading look logical? Ive been having an issue with slightly milky water and I am wondering if its the high salt. My salt cell sensor reads 3600 and when I converted it to a salt pool a month ago I only added 4 40lbs bags of pool salt. (pool is just over 10000 gal)
I would like to clear the water up so any insights would be helpful. BTW I've lowered the pH from 7.8 to7.2 to try and reduce my TA.

 

[duraleigh]

Well, you added enough salt to get about 1900ppm. How much was in the pool before you added? 4600 seems very high but without knowing what was there before you added, it could be tru.

Since your CC test result is 1ppm and your water is not crystal clear. you need to shock your pool.

Do so by following the article (follow it CAREFULLY) in pool school and your pool will be clear.

 

[Sum12B]

I didn't test but the pool was not a "salt pool" previously. BUT...They did have a puck clorinator plumbed into the setup and there was an old floater laying in the patio. I've been reading that Di and Tri Clor add salt when used so do you think it could have built up over time? I ran the salt test twice and the result was the same. By the way since finding this site I've switched to using only bleach and my salt cell.
I did indeed start the shock process yesterday evening and I'm going to test again this morning. The pump has been running on filter speed all night as well. Since the pool is fairly new to me I just have lots of questions. Thanks for the reply.

 

[Bama Rambler]

I've said before that it's important to test the salt before adding any. I've never added a single bag and last year it tested at 2000 ppm. Adding 1900 and reading 4600 after is completely possible.

Any type of chlorine adds salt, so if you've been chlorinating a pool for several years and don't lose a lot of water to overflow or backwashing it could easily get over 2000 ppm.

 

[Sum12B]

Yeah I added the salt going by the recommendations in the Zodiac manuals. Luckily my common sense kicked in and I stopped before I added it all. Initially it would have been 6 bags! But this was all before finding this site and all of the knowledgable people on here.
Since I live in central Florida and I'm getting lots of direct sun and heat right now the water evaporates quite a bit lately. I'm going to keep adding fresh water (after shocking) and with the rain fall we get hopefully the salt level will start to drop.
Oh one quick unrelated question if you don't mind. My spa walls are discolored a little and I was wondering what you guys would suggest to use on them to brighten them up. I'd like to to do it myself and keep any "pool guys" out of the equation.

 

[duraleigh]

Hard to say as there are so many things that can cause staining. Sometimes a pic is very helpful.

 

[dmanb2b]

Welcome to TFP

Agree, a pic would help. If your water is not clear and your CC is 1, as Dave said you need to go through the shock process 1st. If the staining does not subside after you are done with the shock process (shocking is a process not a product), you can try rubbing the area with a trichlor puck and if it lifts, it organic. Otherwise, hold a Vit C tab on the stain...If that helps then it's metal staining.

 

[Sum12B]

I'll post a pic soon. Just need to get back over there. dmanb2b, thanks for the tip I will try both and see what happens.

 

[Sum12B]

Oh yeah the stains remind me of coffee stains on a white shirt.

 

[Sum12B]

Here is a pic of the staining