Need help with changing from liquid bleach to SWG

garyg

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Feb 15, 2008
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Hi :

Am new this forum but have been reading the information for awhile. I want to convert my pool from bleach to SWG.

i did buy a Clearwater LM3-24 SWG and had a few questions on the install.

Is there a easy way to remove a 2" PVC 90 and save the section of pipe it was attached to. I don't have enough pipe unless I reuse where the old 2' 90 was attached.

The pool is 16,500 gal., how much salt should I put in and how should I go about it?

Any other suggestions, would be appreciated.

thanks,

Gary
 
You can't reuse normal PVC fittings. They are glued together using a glue that welds the pipe to the fitting. What you can do is cut the sectio of pipe behind the 90 back, place a coupling, then a new 90 and so on. PVC pipe and fittings are fairly cheap.
 
I understand.. This is all part of a manifold where the fittings are all butted up against each other. There is no space for a coupling.. I was hoping for some miracle. Guess I just have to redoe the whole manifold.

thanks,

gary
 
If I am not mistaken the LM3 series like their salt at arounf 3000-4500 ppm with around 4000 considered optimal and recommend CYa between 50-100 but recommend at least 70 ppm in climates that get a lot of sun. (double check the salt level in your manual.
To get to 4000 ppm from 0 ppmyou will need about 550 lbs of salt (13-14 40 lb bags should get you in that neighborhood). You should doublecheck the manual because I have not looked at a LM3 manual for a while and am working from memory.
Also, it is a good idea to test the salt level first (use the AquaChek salt test strips) because most pools already have some salt in them. It's a byproduct of sanitizing with chlorine!
For Arizona I would run the CYA at around 70-80 ppm. You will need 4.5-5 lbs if your current stabilizer level is at 40 ppm.
You can use the link to Jason's Pool Calculator in my signature and calculate the amounts needed yourself.

Use either pool salt or solar salt sold for water softeners which is at least 99.5% pure. The solar salt is cheaper but dissolves slightly slower because the crystal size is larger. I use the solar salt myself. Just dump it in the pool and brush or kick it around with your feet, it's fun! Wait about 48 hours with the pump running 24/7 before retesting the salt levels. This is also the best time to get your CYa up to where it needs to be. Just pour it in the skimmer with the pump running and DON'T CLEAN YOUR FILTER FOR A WEEK!
It can take up to a week for it to completely dissolve. Test the level in a week.
Start with your FC between 3-5 ppm when you first turn on the generator and check it daily. Start the generator at about 50%. Check chlorine daily for first few weeks. If you find it is rising turn down the output on the SWG a bit. If it's dropping turn it up a bit. You want to maintain between 3-5 ppm. Once you find the setting you are good to go. YOu should start your pump run time at 8 hours initially (unless you have a small pump or 2 speed pump and normally run it longer.)


Finally you might want to check out the sticky on water balance tips for SWGs.
 
Thanks waterbear,

I am adding salt now... I did test before I started and had 570ppm for salt.. I have 10 bags@ 40# .. Looks like i may be a little short.

I do have a K-2006 kit.
my chemistry is FD 5 , PH 7.2, TA 70, CH 260 andCYA 60

I will check my salt in 48 hours and in the mean time I am going to plumb in the SWG and do the electrical.

I will read the stick on water balance for SWG's
 
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