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Thread: 1st Test With TF-100

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    1st Test With TF-100

    I just finished testing my water with a Dave's kit and have the final results.

    FC: 0.5
    CC: 0.5
    PH: 7.8
    TA: 110
    CH: 170
    CYA: 40

    I've had an algie bloom on the bottom of the pool for the past two weeks, but without a reliable test kit I have winged it with test strips. Houston, Texas is about to become extremely hot over the summer so I'm not sure the best way to go about getting rid of the algie and whether or not I should raise the CYA level. Any responses are appreciated as I plan on attacking the pool tonight. I already have 16 gallons of 6% bleach, 8 lbs of baking soda, and 1 gallon of muriatic acid ready for action.
    18k in-ground vinyl
    Pac-Fab NSP DE Filter
    1hp pump

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    Re: 1st Test With TF-100

    Very nice work on assembling your ammunition!!

    1. Put enough chlorine in there to raise it to 25ppm. It'll start to diminish very quickly so, a few hours later, test, and put enough to bring it right back up to 25. Continue to do this as often as you can untill you get rid of that algae and your water is sparkling.

    2. Put enough muriatic acid in your pool to get to 7.2 but no lower.

    3. Put the baking soda on hold for now....I doubt you'll need it.

    4. Clearing that algae is a process, not an event. Run the pump 24/7, keep the FC at 25 as often as you can, and brush at least one each day. It's a little unusual for you to describe your algae as being on the bottom....generally, it's distributed evenly throughout the pool. That said, if you think you coudl vaccum some of it off the pool floor and into your filter (if it's sand) that would be helpful. If you can't don't worry about it.

    5. CYA is fine...leave it for now

    6. Be prepared to get some more clorox....I'm not sure

    7. Keep us posted
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Liquidator

    Well I just added 5 - 182oz jugs of Chlorox to raise the CL to 25. I have a liquidator waiting to be installed that just came in today. Should I wait to install it until the water is fully clear or is it safe to install now with green water? What exactly are the unwanted contaminants that fall out of the chlorine solution besides salt?
    18k in-ground vinyl
    Pac-Fab NSP DE Filter
    1hp pump

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    Salt is it. If you took out the chlorine, water and salt from clorox, I don't think you'd have enough left to perhaps even see.
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    PH Raise

    Well I just tested again and the FC lowered to 18.5, so I'm raising it back up to 25. The one thing that worries me is the ph seemed to jump between the 7.8 and 8.2 color on the test and is much closer to the 8.2 but not darker. Is this a normal reaction from the addition of salt? By the way I grabbed another 13.5 gallons of chlorine just in case.
    18k in-ground vinyl
    Pac-Fab NSP DE Filter
    1hp pump

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    The PH test does not work reliably when the FC level is above 15. You mentioned that the FC level was around 25, so just ignore the PH test till the FC level comes down.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
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    I tested the water again this morning at 9:30 after raising it back up to shock level last night. The pool calculator recommends shocking the pool to 15 although Dave recommended 25 so I have kept it at 25. It rained last night, so after draining some water the tests showed a FC of 21 and CC of 0.5, but the pool is still quite green so should I continue testing every 3~4 hours and shocking it as necessary? Also, should I use the calculator shock level or keep it at 25? I read the sticky, but I'm not seeing any algie graying even though I'm brushing three times a day and vacuumed out the bottom of the pool.
    18k in-ground vinyl
    Pac-Fab NSP DE Filter
    1hp pump

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    Generally, in a green pool, the initial dose of FC drops so fast you quickly fall below breakpoint ("true" shock level).

    It is my opinion that staying above shock level is an important consideration in the speed at which your pool clears. For that reason, I'll usually recommend quite a few ppm above shock since it's going to drop precipitously......normally.....yours didn't!!

    I have to assume that you don't have quite as much algae as many others, hence, the low chlorine consumption.

    I think I'd let it drift down to 15ppm and hold it at that level until your pool clears. Don't be discouraged that you haven't seen it go gray yet...it may not. It may get sort of aquagreen and then go to blue. The important thing to remember is that it's a process and not an event that happens overnight (usually).

    It may take a few more days to clean up your pool but you're doing ALL the right things and it will happen....just not as quickly as any of us would like
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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