Zero chlorine

Mar 31, 2012
12
Dallas, Texas
Help, I've been constantly been battling alge forming and zero chlorine. I have been checking the following things. pool pump is running good. cartridge filter is running good although I am having to clean to often as its getting blocked. The Rainbow c320 is in good working condition. water flows in and out. the o-ring is in good condition. its air tight. I have been in addition to using the rainbow chlorinator been using a floater too as a extra test to see rainbow chlorinator is not working. The pool store doesn't know what the issue is either.

FAC 0
TAC 0
CYA 35
CH 200
TA 80
PH 7.8
COPPER 0
IRON 0
TDS 700
PHO 100
TEMP 85

Many Thanks


Pentair Variable speed pump, Hayward C17502 Star-Clear Plus 175-Square-Foot Cartridge Filter, Rainbow c320, plaster, 15,000, British-Texan!
 
How long have you been using trichlor tablets? I am guessing that your CYA may actually be quite a bit higher (pool stores are not good at testing CYA).

If it is higher, the FC likely dropped too low and thus the algae developed ... a very common story for people who only use pucks.

I would recommend, ordering a good test kit for yourself, reading Pool School a few times, and start using liquid chlorine / bleach to get your FC numbers up immediately.

Also, please move your pool details to your signature so they are saved. Here is how:
pool-school/read_before_you_post
 
I'll retest my CYA. I use my own test kit and double check with Leslies pool store. My local store has a vet water master there and not a college kid. So i mostly trust his results too. I do use pucks. Is bleach a much better alternative long term? If my CYA turns out to be 35 again what would be my next step?

Thanks
 
I would still trust your own testing with a good test kit (not strips) more than the pool store ... even for the fact that the water sample starts to change as soon as it comes out of the pool.

If you are at a reasonable CYA (< 80ppm), then you should start the Shocking Your Pool process. First step is adjust pH and then maintaining FC at shock level, which depends on your CYA level ... see Chlorine CYA Chart
 
Help, I've been constantly been battling alge forming and zero chlorine. I have been checking the following things. pool pump is running good. cartridge filter is running good although I am having to clean to often as its getting blocked. The Rainbow c320 is in good working condition. water flows in and out. the o-ring is in good condition. its air tight. I have been in addition to using the rainbow chlorinator been using a floater too as a extra test to see rainbow chlorinator is not working.
What you posted indicates to me you do not understand that it is the zero chlorine that is causing your algae to be able to grow. Chlorine is a consumable item and must be replenished if it gets low. If you test 0 for chlorine, you must get more chlorine in your pool so the algae won't grow.

I would suggest read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School and then get your own test kit so you can take charge of your pool. Your pool store may have an experienced person, but if they don't know what to do, when the answer seems VERY obvious, then you need to learn how to manage your pool on your own.
 
simonrose2000 said:
I'll retest my CYA. I use my own test kit and double check with Leslies pool store. My local store has a vet water master there and not a college kid. So i mostly trust his results too. I do use pucks. Is bleach a much better alternative long term? If my CYA turns out to be 35 again what would be my next step?

What type of test does the pool store have? If they use a drop by drop test and not strips or color matching computer then it could be accurate. The trick is to get 2-3 tests using the same water and see if they get the same results. Testing your own water is very helpful because it allows you the flexibility to test when you need it - but if you find an accurate pool store that's great - just remember to take the advice that comes with the test with a grain of salt.

As for pucks - they work - but they add something called CYA - which eventually is too high and the effectiveness of your chlorine fades. Then you get algae and 0 chlorine even though you are dumping more and more pucks in.

The 35 CYA is suspect given your frequent puck use. This is the most frequently wrong test - it's best performed outside in bright sunlight with the sun to your back - which is not what most stores do - artificial light can lead to a lower reported CYA.

Lastly is bleach better? Sure - it has nothing but the Chlorine you need an a little salt. It's like a Salt Water Chlorine Generator in a bottle... LOL. It's a lot bulkier and heavy to work with and it has shelf life issues - and can't be stored in a hot shed for long periods... so there are reasons people still like pucks besides education. However in general it's easier to manage the pool using bleach and not pucks.

Just my 2 cents...
 
Thanks for your reply. I guess I should rephrase my query. My test results as above indicate all levels are good except my chroline is at zero. What I'm trying to ask is why do I have peaks of chroline to no chroline? What causes the chroline to run to zero even if the CYA is at a acceptable range and I have in line pucks running? I obviously know that zero chroline equals algae. What would you troubleshoot to determine the problem?
Thanks
 
Chlorine is consumed in it's fight against algae. When you let your FC get too low, algae grows and then it takes more and more chlorine to fight the growing algae.

You are not putting enough chlorine in your pool so the algae is winning the battle.
 
If the cya truly is 35, it would make me suspicious that you chlorine feeder was not working, because for every puck added, there is a corresponding amount of cya added.
How long has your pool been open, what is your normal puck usage, and how many pucks per week comparatively were you going through while getting zero readings?

Regardless of the answer, you will need to shock your way out of the situation by following the guide in pool school and maintaining the shock level for your (accurate) cya reading consistently until you pass the 3 tests (less than 1 ppm overnight chlorine loss, .5 or less cc and clear water.)
 
Ditto swampwoman...

How many pounds of pucks have you used since you filled the pool? What type of pucks are they?

Sun and organics use chlorine...
 

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That seems like a pretty low consumption rate ... I would expect that almost weekly. So that could explain why the CYA is lower than we expected and why your FC is always zero.

Although honestly, I think you would be better off changing your routine rather than fixing the chlorinator.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)
 
simonrose2000 said:
I installed the in line puck feeder in late may/ early June. It's ate 5 pucks so far. Is that average? Or under? I live in Texas which has had a constant temp from 95-100f to today.
Thanks

How many in the floater?
 
It sounds like you have just let your chlorine get too low and algae formed, not into a bloom yet, but the algae is in your pool and you will have to go through the shock process to clear your water.
pool-school/shocking_your_pool

After the shock process is completed you should follow the FC/CYA guide and you will avoid having another algae issue. pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock

It will be your choice on how to chlorinate your pool but I suggest reading as much info you can on this site and go from there.
 
Hi, thanks for your replies. today my test results are good.

FAC 4
TAC 4
CYA 55
CH 220
TA 80
PH 7.8
COPPER 0
IRON 0
TDS 700
PHO 100
TEMP 85

After learning more I'm going to start bleaching instead of pucks. One other question I have is I need a deep clean on my cartridge filter. Which laundry detergent do you recommend? Or shall I just stick to TSP?

thanks again
 
simonrose2000 said:
Hi, thanks for your replies. today my test results are good.

FAC 4
CYA 55

Notice that your CYA is now 55 - and a FC of 4 is borderline. Check the chart here: pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock

CYA 55 would really need a minimum of around 4.5 or 5. I would use bleach to raise that to 8 or 9 and check again at the end of the day to see how much was used up in the sunlight. I would also pull any pucks out you have - the CYA will otherwise keep rising.
 
So was my investment in a Rainbow c320 a waste of money? Or is there any other pucks I can use which doesn't raise the CYA?
No and No.

Save the pucks for when you are away from the pool for an extended period of time. Pucks can be used just fine if you MANAGE your water properly. There are no suitable pucks without CYA.

Save your money and don't buy that First Aid stuff. BBB teaches the simplest of methods and chemistry and "magic bullets" are generally a waste of money.
 
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