Autopilot Dig-220 low volts and low amps with new power bd

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S

Super.Slacker

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Aug 14, 2012
4
Hi all,
Thanks for having this great resource.
I have a Dig-220 that was installed in 2005. Last year and this year our SWG was constantly running at 100% using an SC-48 for 12 to 14 hours/day but this year my pool had like (.1) FC. And THEN we started to get the "low amps" message. I did everything recommend and then called AutoPilot tech support. Though it didn't look that bad, we all agreed that the cell was failing. I bought a new RC-52 to replace it. That did the trick except when I installed it, I forgot to bump down the % of output so after about a week we had too much chlorine. To get the levels down, I shut the SWG off. After a few days when things got normal, I turned it back on, exectp now it said "check cell - low amps". Testing showed 8v and .2 amps. Back on the phone with AutoPilot; after basic testing and checking, determined problem to be bad power board. I bought and installed new power board.

New power board now shows 0v and .2amps. Back on phone with Autopilot. Using DMM, we tested and verified everything we could including swapping sc-48 with RC-52 back and forth. Tech is pointing to bad power board but was going to consult with someone else. I have not heard back from him yet. After the new power board was installed, for the first time that I've ever seen, the control board display went blank (while on the phone w/ AutoPilot). I had to power off/on unit to get it to display again. (It has now happend a couple more times as well.)

Does the control board affect the voltages being put out by the power board? Is it "likely" that I got a new power board that was DOA? Does the blank display indicate a bad control board even though the flashing light continues to flash?

I've now put the old power board back in place and have the same readings in boost mode at all power levels: 8v, 0.2amps.

Should I buy a new Control board or wait to speak w/ Autopilot again.

Thanks for your help with this.
 
Re: Autopilot Dig-220 low volts and low amps with new power

Thanks, Sean, for getting back to me. If ok, I will call you Friday 8/17 in the AM. The system is wired for 220v and is good thru the (noise filter?).
- An update: Last night I spoke w/ Autopilot again, and they also seem to think that this could be a "control board" related problem as well. I hope I didn't jump the gun, but I went ahead and purchased a control board. It should arrive Sat or Monday. Should I wait to call you until after that part arrives? Also, as I said before, I have put my old power board back into the SWG; should I put the new one in before I call you? And lastly, Autopilot recommends that when the new contol board comes in, I should install it along with the new power board. Do you agree?

Thank you,
Buddy
 
Re: Autopilot Dig-220 low volts and low amps with new power

Depends on what coast you're on. I'm currently in Phoenix, so three hours behind the east coast. Also, I'm onboard my flight between 11:50am to around 4:30 pm east coast time. I don't mind if you called around 8-9 am east coast (5-6 am where I am now), as I'll probably be awake already.

Check your wire harness between the two circuit boards. It will either be a wire bundle or a ribbon wire. Check both ends to make sure all wires are tucked in the connectors properly, and that none are sticking out (or popped out).

It may be good to wait until you can replace the control board and see what happens. Again, check the wire harness.
 
Re: Autopilot Dig-220 low volts and low amps with new power

Thank you, I will call you Monday, hopefully after I have the new part. Sorry, I did not see your post until late last night and I was traveling early this morning. The wire bundles both look good on the old and the new.

Thank you.
Buddy
 
Re: Autopilot Dig-220 low volts and low amps with new power

I got the new control board Monday and installed it with the NEW power board that I received last week and everything is working perfectly. This confirms my suspicion that the control board was bad, but now I'm wondering whether or not the power board was bad in the first place. I want to test the old power board by installing it with this new controller, but my fear is that the new controller will get "zapped" by the old board. Is that a valid fear or should I just not worry about it and hold onto the parts in case something happens later on down the line? Clearly, the power boards are different physically and electrically because as I said before, old controller w/ old PB showed 8v and 0.2A, while old controller w/ new PB showed 0v and 0.2A. Also, would it be a bad idea to put my old SC-48 back on and see how it behaves now?

Thank you.
Buddy
 
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