Refilling The Pool, Need Some Help With Pool Calculator

Foreword: I've had major algae problems, it was so bad I had black algae build up between the mosaic tiles on the pool floor and yellow tint (not sure what that was everywhere). So I drained my entire pool, and gave it a nice acid bath (HCI - hydrocloric acid) so the black algae and the yellow stuff that built up I could wash away. It took over 10 hours to wash the pool as in some places the build up was so bad I had to go back 3-4 times with acid, power wash, acid power wash, etc to get it to come off.

Here are some pics of our empty pool after cleanup and before i started filling it, its 15,000 gallons (56,xxx liters). Sidenote: NVM the jungle of weeds, I have to replant the grass LOL

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Question1: When I start filling it from scratch, will it have CYA = 0? (My guess is yes, but id like to know for a fact)
Question2: I used pool calculator, entered my pool size and it told me my shock level is FC 10 (on CYA=0). Then I used the calculator to calculate how much liquid chlorine I have to add and it said to add 115 oz of 16% bleach (bleach=liquid chlorine?)

**Dumb newb question** Does that mean I have to add 115 oz to shock it? Or I screwed up and misread...

Question3: We cannot buy stabilizer here (When I asked for CL stabalizer they were like huh -- is there a household name for stabalizer?) , they are clueless when I ask at the 3 big pool stores. So, since dichlor (or triclor?) pucks have CYA in them, should I just put in some pucks to stabilize? (We have pucks that are chlorine+stabalizer only, and also have ones called multi-combi which contain chlorine, algacide, and stabilizer)
 
Question 1: Yes, CYA will be zero
Question 2: Pool Calculator can be set to metric units, in case you didn't know. Top line, far right :wink: 9L of 6% bleach should get you right around 10ppm which leads me to
Question 3: Look for dichlor powder. At the bottom of the Pool Calculator, it will show effects of adding chemicals. Plug it in, and it will tell you how much each kg will raise CYA. Then figure out how many kg will raise CYA to your target. Then use dichlor to shock and chlorinate your pool until you've added that magic quantity. Not all at once - just use it as needed until the full amount has been added. Then switch to liquid bleach.

Edit: I looked at one of your older posts and the website to which you linked sells bayrol chemicals. Chlorifix is what they call Dichlor. Plain CYA is Stabichloran
 
Thanks for the quick reply Richard320.

Please note: Serbia is a 3rd world country, people don't know what dichlor/trichlor is - however some digging revealed to me that dichlor is simply chlorine granulates.

In regards to your answer to my 3rd Question: Are you saying I should (after i've filled up the pool) first-time shock my pool using chlorine granulates, and later switch to using liquid chlorine when shocking/maintaining?

Thank you!
 
SerbianPoolGuy said:
Thanks for the quick reply Richard320.

Please note: Serbia is a 3rd world country, people don't know what dichlor/trichlor is - however some digging revealed to me that dichlor is simply chlorine granulates.

In regards to your answer to my 3rd Question: Are you saying I should (after i've filled up the pool) first-time shock my pool using chlorine granulates, and later switch to using liquid chlorine when shocking/maintaining?

Thank you!
If you can't find plain stabilizer, yes.

Let's say 1 kg dichlor raises CYA by 9. If your target is 50, you can use 5.5 kg dichlor to raise it there. To get from 0 to 10 FC, you need approximately 1 kg dichlor. So add that. The next day, maybe you only need 300g dichlor to raise FC to 10. So you add that. And so on, until the dichlor is all used up. If you want to complicate it, you'll see how much you've raised CYA with each addition and adjust the target value to that CYA level. At any rate, once the full amount of dichlor has been added, you'll have the right CYA level.

Just be sure the chlorine granules you're buying are dichlor. Trichlor dissolves too slowly for shock purposes, and calcium hypochlorite will add no CYA. So check the labels!
 
Just to add. Don't use the multipurpose tablets. Many have copper in them and you do not want copper in the pool.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)
 
Using both is fine ... Do not physically mix them though. Maybe wait 15-30 minutes between adding them.

Keep good track of the amount of dichlor you use so you know how CYA is affected. Also realize that dichlor may lower your pH, so watch that.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)
 
I went to measure my water after the refill before adding any chemicals, and I am in shock. I have very high PH 8.7 as per the aqvacheck digital reader (confirmed with a separate liquid tester for PH levels and its high, very high) -- TA is also high...

when I measure my well water output it reads PH level 8.0, however in the pool it reads 8.7 -- how can this be? what should i do?
 
The pool calculator will tell you how much muriatic acid or dry acid to add in order to bring the ph back down before you start shocking. Once you add chlorine, note that if the ppm is higher than 10, your ph reading will not be accurate.

Agitation will raise ph, so I suspect the splashing from filling is what may have increased your ph. It's good to get it in range, or even a bit on the lower side (7.2) before you shock, as shocking will raise it a bit.

Beautiful pool, by the way!
 
SerbianPoolGuy said:
I went to measure my water after the refill before adding any chemicals, and I am in shock. I have very high PH 8.7 as per the aqvacheck digital reader (confirmed with a separate liquid tester for PH levels and its high, very high) -- TA is also high...

when I measure my well water output it reads PH level 8.0, however in the pool it reads 8.7 -- how can this be? what should i do?

Try just using the dichlor then while you start things up rather than just using 1/3 - it will help lower the pH at the same time.

Otherwise HCL (Muratic Acid) is your friend.
 

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Thanks about the comments, appreciate it.

PH 8.7
TA 260
CYA 0
FC 0

*I just dumped 2 liters of HCL into it, to lower PH.. pool calc said 2.54 liters, but i decided to do just 2L, and then check and if need be add more, etc to get to the desired level, water is somewhat green... I plan to go back and shock in 1 hour, will remeasure tomorrow AM*
 
SerbianPoolGuy said:
Thanks about the comments, appreciate it.

PH 8.7
TA 260
CYA 0
FC 0

*I just dumped 2 liters of HCL into it, to lower PH.. pool calc said 2.54 liters, but i decided to do just 2L, and then check and if need be add more, etc to get to the desired level, water is somewhat green... I plan to go back and shock in 1 hour, will remeasure tomorrow AM*


If possible get the pH down to 7.2-7.4 BEFORE you start the shock process because once you start the process you can't easily test pH due to the FC > 10. Also the Chlorine works more quickly with lower pH as I understand it.
 
I need to get a way to auto-type this ;)

Pool is safe when:
1. FC > the minimum and < shock level for your CYA level (see the chart or calculator)
2. CC is not more than 0.5ppm
3. you can see the bottom of the pool
4. pH is in range (not really safety, but comfort)
 
SerbianPoolGuy said:
heres a newb question.. after i shock and bring my level to 15 how long do i need to wait before we can swim in it? ie how long for the level to go down to fc4 and stay there?

See the reply just before this. But to answer more directly, your FC will fall rapidly in the sunlight depending on CYA. If your CYA stays at 0 like it is now - it won't take long at all! If you bring the CYA up slowly to 40 or so before the shocking process is complete then it may take a day to drop by 1/3 to 1/2 of the FC levels or even faster. It will not take a long time. But as mentioned you can swim once below shock and still above minimum...
 
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