Posting test results, need feedback so I can start BBB

[Taylor1584]

I shocked my pool following the directions here. Now testing myself using the test kit I got from this site recommendations.
Here's what I have today. The
FC 3.5
CC 0
TAC 3.5
Salt strip test 2740
CH 340 (at 34 drops turned blue-violet with what looked like particulates, at 36 drops turned clear blue)
CYA 30
TA 70 (6 turned violet, at 7 turned pink so it's 70 correct?)
Ph 8.2 (I added Pool Calc. suggested acid and when I returned from Leslie's it was 7.5)
Acid Demand I don't know how to do this.
Borates 0
Salt Cell I am not sure how to work the read out so didn't touch.

Readings from Leslie's
FC 3.0
CC 0
TAC 3.0
Salt 3100
CH 200
CYA 40
TA 60
Ph 8.0
Acid Demand 3
Phosphates 1000

Here's what I did. I tested the water, and also gathered water sample to take to Leslie's(as husband not sure what I am doing). After testing I added acid as per Pool Calc. And I went to Leslie's to get their results, for my husband's sake. After returning checked Ph to see effect of acid, now Ph7.5. I did the tests methodically, being careful to follow the directions in the test kit.

So now I have Ph down to 7.5 what to do next. Leslie's rec's say to add 9 1/2 lbs of Alkalinity Up, I do give the pool store guy credit, he said to go buy Baking Soda instead of trying to sell me product. And...I am to add2qts. 18 fl oz of PhosFree.

Pool Calc. says to
add 7l oz bleach
40 oz acid
40 oz baking soda to get to goal of 80
68 oz of stabilizer to get to goal of 60 as per chlorine/CYA chart with ph goal of 5
65 lbs salt, goal of 3200 is this a good goal number
601 oz of borax for goal of 30 is this a good goal number

My water is clear, sparkling, some staining on the walls, we have beyond hard water and manganese. Will work on that later. It is almost 100 here in Houston, we have no shade at any time of the day.

So how do my numbers look?
Do I add according to Pool Calc?
And in what order do I add?
Do I wait before adding something else?
Is there a particular order to balancing water, ie. should I get chlorine perfect, then Ph, and TA, and then do other stuff?

Inquiring minds want to know, mainly mine.
I know this is alot, but in reading through the website the comment I see the most is, post all your results, so I did.

Thanks a billion,
Chris

 

[Richard320]

You have your own test kit - stop going to the pool store! :grrrr:

You have pH under control. Get some chlorine in there so the algae doesn't return. Take it up to 5 or 6. Add enough CYA to get you up to 60. You can always add more, but its hard to get rid of it if you overshoot. Add the salt to 3200.

Then keep tabs on the SWG until you get it set to the sweet spot for your pool. Keep watching pH and adjust that whenever it hits 7.8.

CH will go up all by itself. By the way, it sounds like it's 360, not 340. TA is good for a SWG. Borates are optional, and I'd hold off on adding them until you've got everything stabilized and routine.

 

[jblizzle]

Ignore the phosphates.
Also your TA seems to be fine for a SWG pool.
You could lower the pH a little more, but not required ... the SWG (and waterfalls) will tend to cause it to rise ... thus the reason to keep the TA lower.
What does the SWG say about your salt level? You might need to add some.
If your water is clear, you should raise the CYA up toward the recommended ~70ppm for SWG pools
Then dial in the SWG to keep the FC up in the 5-6ppm range ... always good to use liquid chlorine to help boost the FC.

Is there a reason you want to add borates? They are not required and maybe you should get everything else stable first.

None of the things you need to do really have an order. Most everything seems fine.

 

[Taylor1584]

Yah Richard, I know, but hubby is not sure what I am doing so he wanted me to go. I am still doing my own testing and trust my number over Leslie's. I am humoring him.lol "Keep watching pH and adjust that whenever it hits 7.8." So is aiming for 7.2 correct for a plaster SWG pool? Don't I need to somehow lower the CH, isn't 360 too high? I knew it would kill you all if I told you the pool store wanted me to get the TA up to 120 and that would stabilize my chlorine. I kinda knew not to pay attention to that. And yes I want to get the basics down good before going into BBB

 

[jblizzle]

General Recommendations: pool-school/recommended_levels

The only way to lower CH is by replacing water ... your is 1/3 what Richard is dealing with.

Your pH will go up faster than you think with the SWG and waterfalls.

 

[Taylor1584]

Jason, Thanks for the reply. I agree with your suggestions, but since I am new to this I wanted to double check with the experts. I think I will try to lower Ph to 7-7.2 as per your advice. Thanks for the goals for CYA and FC goals. And I am also adding the salt. I want to get the routine stable and then move on the BBB. If I understand it BBB helps keep everything on even keel, I am adding acid almost daily and think that BBB would help with that. But I am waiting on the basics first.
Chris

 

[Taylor1584]

Jason,
Why ignore the phosphates? Do they promote algae. Not sure I understand. We do have a small leak that hubby is going to fix, in the mean time I keep topping off every evening with new water. Hopefully, that will help lower CH some.
Chris

 

[jblizzle]

Not 7.0 ... keep it at or above 7.2

BBB method is about understanding your pools chemistry, not about what specific chemicals you use. Many members never use borax or baking soda.

But, you are correct that some people like to add borates to help water feel and pH stability.

Phosphates are food for algae. If the FC level is kept in range, it does not matter that the food is available because algae can not live. If he feels a need to spend the $ on something ... just spend it to be a supporter here instead

 

[lightingguy]

For new members who are just starting with a pool it's always hard to tell who to believe - the pool store or the forum. Honestly you've got to make a choice - because trying to do both is going to drive you crazy.

I'll basically repeat what the others have said - just to reinforce.

Phosphates - don't matter as long as you keep you FC up at the appropriate level for your CYA. If the algae can't live in the water they can't eat.

PH, TA, CH - right now PH 7.5, TA 70, CH 370 - that all looks really good for your plaster pool and SWG. It gets a little complicated - but since your TA is a little low it compensates for your CH being a little high. No need to worry about it now - as long as you keep your PH between 7.4 a 7.8 that's going to be the sweet spot for your pool right now.

Your salt level might be a little low for the SWG.

Your CYA level is a little low. As mentioned - if the pool is clear start bringing it up some. That will help keep sunlight from converting the chlorine back into salt.

 

[Taylor1584]

Not 7.0 ... keep it at or above 7.2

BBB method is about understanding your pools chemistry, not about what specific chemicals you use. Many members never use borax or baking soda.

But, you are correct that some people like to add borates to help water feel and pH stability.

Phosphates are food for algae. If the FC level is kept in range, it does not matter that the food is available because algae can not live. If he feels a need to spend the $ on something ... just spend it to be a supporter here instead

Jason, I took your suggestion and became a lifetime supporter. You guys are the greatest!
Chris

 

[jblizzle]

Jason, I took your suggestion and became a lifetime supporter. You guys are the greatest!
Chris

 

[Taylor1584]

Lightingguy, Thanks for the support. I will be adding salt, and then as the chlorine, salt, and Ph stabalized, I will bring up the CYA.

Thanks

 

[R.J.]

You keep talking about "starting BBB." You started BBB the moment you trusted your numbers over the pool store numbers

 

[Taylor1584]

Good Morning Pool Chemistry Guru's! here are results for this morning. Using TF-100 test kit, I only checked the chlorine, Ph, and salt. Following the pool calc. I added the 31 oz Acid and am to also add 35 oz of bleach to reach my target of 5. I am assuming thats a good target, hot, full sun, all day. I thought I would check this evening to see how much chlorine gets used up. Also will add at least 40 lbs of the 65 lbs of salt recommended, as my husband will only want to do one bag, as he is still skeptical, and I cannot lift the bag. I haven't had time to get the stabilizer but will do that later today. So how am I doing. I really want to get to the point that I don't have to add acid every day. You all are terrific. Chris

FC 4 target of 5
CC 0
TAC 4
Salt strip test 2740
CH 340
CYA 30
TA 70
Ph 7.8
Acid Demand I don't know how to do this.
Borates 0
Salt Cell 2900

 

[Bama Rambler]

Looks like you're on the right path.

If you run those 3 waterfalls with any regularity you're going to be adding acid regularly. But you should be able to keep it under control without much trouble.

 

[Taylor1584]

Thanks Dave,
I generally run them when I am adding chemicals in order to help mix. When the water gets very hot I do run the waterfalls at night.

 

[Txmat]

Aeration raises PH without changing TA. That is why the waterfalls require adding acid. They also cool the water. So You can anticipate you will need acid as you cool the water.

 

[ScoobyDoo]

He has a SWG. He'll be adding acid regularly regardless. Its just the nature of a saltwater pool.