Are these good numbers

[miller9951]

We have a 15,000 gallon AGP that has an Aqua Trol SWG and a sand filter. I have been fighting with algae for a long time and I just got my water tested at the pool store. My Aqua Trol is showing the salt level to be 400 so it has shut itself off. I have had my cell checked and the test showed that the cell was good.

FC 5
PH 7.8
TA 150
CYA 70
Salt 3100
Phosphates 300 to 500

I still appear to be having an algae problem along with what would appears to be a problem with my Aqua Trol SWG. I was wondering if these numbers look okay and if anyone has any suggestions as to why my Aqua Trol unit is not working?

 

[giulietta1]

First, get your own test kit so you don't risk getting "poolstored"! The TF-100 is available here, and the Taylor K-2006 is good too. (I have the latter, which I bought before the TF-100 came along.)

Second, your chlorine is WAY too low to deal with an algae problem! Some recommendations are up to 30 ppm. My guesstimate, based on your CYA level, is that you should keep the FC in the 15-20 range until the water is blue and clear. About 3 gallons of 6% bleach would get you there.

Can't help with the Aqua Trol, don't know anything about that.

pH is high; might want to lower that a bit before dumping in loads of bleach, because chlorine works better at lower pH levels. TA's a little high but you can deal with that after you get rid of the algae. CYA is just about right. ASSUMING your pool store test results are accurate!

You should be testing and adding chlorine preferably a couple of times a day to get rid of algae. Brushing, too, twice a day if possible.

Good luck, and don't give up! Patience and persistence will get you there. Once you've gotten rid of the algae, "5 minutes a day" to test and adjust your water will keep it from EVER coming back!

 

[miller9951]

Hi Jules,

Thanks for the reply. I do have a K 2006 test kit coming but it will not be here for a couple of days. Every pool store that I have been to has told me to be careful about running hi cholrine levels that it may damage the liner. Will the hi cholrine levels damage the liner? Thanks again for the help and I just wish I would have found this forum about a year. It would have saved be a lot of $$$$$$.

Eddie

 

[duraleigh]

Hi, Eddy,

Yeah, Jules is right about the chlorine....you need quite a bit more. And with your high CYA level, his advice on not worrying about high chlorine levels is rock-solid. I'd run your FC up to about 25-30ppm and HOLD IT THERE until your pool is clear and the algae is all gone.

'til you get the aquatrol fixed, you'll need to maintain FC around 5-8ppm.

Have you used JasonLion's calculator to figure how much stuff you need to adjust your pool? If not, find any of his posts and it's a link in his sig. Use that to keep you FC up high and to lower your pH a little as Jules suggested.

Ask lots of questions.....there's nice people on this forum who are willing to help.

 

[miller9951]

Can pool stores only read up to 5ppm of free chlorine? Why I am asking is that have a Tru-test monitor from Aquachek and from what I have read here is this is not the best test to use but it is all I have for now until I get my Taylor k2006 test kit. The reading that I am getting on my Tru-test is that my free chlorine level is:

FC 7.2
PH 7.0
TA 167

I did add 3 cups of acid about an hour prior to taking this reading. Can these readings be accurate?

 

[JasonLion]

Those test results sound reasonable if you keep in mind that there is a fairly large variation in the Tru-Test precision. That is that your actual numbers may be higher or lower by a fair bit since that test simply isn't that precise.

 

[miller9951]

While I am waiting for UPS to deliver my new test kit and from what I am reading the Tru test unit will only read up to 10 ppm and my cheap drop test kit will only read up to 5 ppm is there anyway to get an idea of what the FC reading is to see if it is holding steady or if it is droping?

Eddie

 

[Exchemist]

The K-2006 contains a FAS-DPD chlorine test which can read up to at least 50 ppm. You may want to reduce the test volume from 10 ml to 5 ml. This will make the test read 1 ppm per drop rather than 0.5 ppm. For high chlorine levels, this is more than sufficient.

 

[JasonLion]

You can get a vague notion of the chlorine level using dilution, but it won't be precise enough to tell for sure if the FC level is falling or not.

 

[miller9951]

My new Taylor K-2006 test kit is finally here here is a set of numbers that I am getting. Before this I have been using a Leslie service kit to try and maintain a FC of 20. Today my FC level did not drop any but the pool is still green. Is this common and how long does it normally take to be clear?

FC 21
PH 7.6
TA 200
CH 380
CYA 80

 

[JasonLion]

It can take the filter up to a week to clear the water after the algae is all dead. Algae often turns while when it dies but sometimes it stays green.

 

[miller9951]

Hi Jasonlion,

Thank you for your advice. I should have also asked how long do I have to maintain the shock level to make sure that I have KILLED all of the agea in my pool?

Eddie

 

[JasonLion]

You should maintain shock level either till the FC level holds steady overnight using the FAS-DPD chlorine test, or till the water is clear again.