OK So we just ordered a new AGP. It's a 28' X 54" Escalade by Sharkline. This is our first pool and I want to be sure we do it right. I'm expecting an electrician over some night this week to discuss running the power line(s). Our pool will be approx 40' from the house. I have a 10' x 16' storage between the pool area and the house. When he runs the lines I want to run power to the shed as well as the lines for the pool. We're purchasing a heat pump so we'll need 240V as well as 120V. My thought is to run everything into a main box in the shed and then back out to the pool area. This way I can kill all power to the pool area from inside the shed. Anyone have any suggestions??
Electrical ???'s
- Thread starter walt7474
- Start date
Sounds like a good plan to me. Be sure to ask about the local codes while talking to him/her.
Also you'll need to cover bonding with them. Make sure they're comfortable with how that works.
Also you'll need to cover bonding with them. Make sure they're comfortable with how that works.
If it were me I would run a minimum of a 60A 240V Sub-panel to the shed and then the pool power from there...Oh and maybe a couple switch legs from the house for some future lighting you can operate from the house :-D
Finally got an electrician to come out and give me a price. He wants to run a 100 amp line from main breaker in basement. Will install a sub-panel in shed and then run 2 120v and 1 240v lines out to pool. Will also install a circuit for lights and outlets in shed. Total distance from house to pool area is about 50 feet. His price is $1300. That seems kinda high to me. Anyone have an opinion??
Prices are rather variable as it depends a great deal on exactly where the wire needs to run. If the wire is buried, the trenching costs can be a significant part of the total. That seems a little on the high side, but it could be reasonable if you have obstructions that make running the wire more difficult.
Dittos on the variability in prices, but I don't think that price sounds unreasonable, my job was no where near as complicated as yours and they wanted 500 bucks.
Electrical work costs money, no way around that.
You can always try another estimate from a different company but don't cheap out, you want everything powered safely.
Electrical work costs money, no way around that.
You can always try another estimate from a different company but don't cheap out, you want everything powered safely.
Not sure on the area you live in so I can't realy offer an opinion on the price. I can offer this though... In my area the wire alone to run that circuit would cost upward of $300.00. Add in $100.00 - $200.00 for panel, and another $300.00 or so for conduit, parts and breakers and the material price can eat up half that or more real fast. Who is doing the digging? Obviously this will have to be trenched to the shed. Maybe this is something you could work out with him.
A 100 amp sub panel in the shed seems a little over kill. A 60 amp panel would be more than enough. Many older houses only have a 100 amp panel. A 60 amp will be much cheaper as the wire will be smaller gauge.
I built a garage in my yard and installed a 60 amp panel. I have a 220 volt air compressor and a 220 volt air conditioner in the garage. I also have a refrigerator a television along with outside lighting and about 1000 watts of inside lights and I run the pool filter from the garage panel. I have never had a power issue.
A 100 amp panel is really 200 amps at 110 volts. That is 10- 20 amp 110v circuits.
I built a garage in my yard and installed a 60 amp panel. I have a 220 volt air compressor and a 220 volt air conditioner in the garage. I also have a refrigerator a television along with outside lighting and about 1000 watts of inside lights and I run the pool filter from the garage panel. I have never had a power issue.
A 100 amp panel is really 200 amps at 110 volts. That is 10- 20 amp 110v circuits.
Heater needs 220v 50 amps and pump needs 120v 30 amps. I want an additional circuit out by the pool for lights, music, etc. Also want a couple if circuits in the shed. So a 60 amp box in shed is enough?
No. 60 amps is not enough if the heater needs 50 amps.
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
Wow didn't realize that your heater was a 220 volt 50 amp. I thought you were talking about a heat pump, like geo-thermal. It must cost a fortune to heat your pool with electricity. That is 11000 watts.
Actually I'm being told it's more efficient and cheaper to operate than a gas heater.
Well, unless you have VERY cheap electricity, the electric resistive heaters are the least efficient and usually the most expensive to run.
Most people that have natural gas available go that route or an electric heat pump ... depends out how your are intending to use the heater.
Most people that have natural gas available go that route or an electric heat pump ... depends out how your are intending to use the heater.
deweypip
0
Not certain of that price, but I will say since I'm looking to do my own electrical, go look at wire prices. Wire is threw the roof. I mean a coil of just 14/2 is ridiculous.
Same as you, I have a shed build(in progress). I too am considering a sub panel from main house to shed, then come off shed to pool and whatever else.
Same as you, I have a shed build(in progress). I too am considering a sub panel from main house to shed, then come off shed to pool and whatever else.
deweypip said:
I want to add a large garage and was thinking of running 100A to it ... 300+ feet. Quick estimate put the wire alone close to $3000
Might see if the electric company will add a 2nd service ... or I may change from overhead to inground service with a pedestal meter out back so the runs to the house and garage are each closer to 150ft ... cheaper to run the smaller wire to both the house and garage than the huge stuff to the garage from the house.
- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,668
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
jblizzle said:I want to add a large garage and was thinking of running 100A to it ... 300+ feet. Quick estimate put the wire alone close to $3000
One potential problem with this approach is that they may charge a different rate (business rate) for the 2nd meter and feed and it is a pretty hefty cost differential per Kw/h. I have a friend that has this situation (not for a pool).
UnderWaterVanya said:jblizzle said:I want to add a large garage and was thinking of running 100A to it ... 300+ feet. Quick estimate put the wire alone close to $3000
One potential problem with this approach is that they may charge a different rate (business rate) for the 2nd meter and feed and it is a pretty hefty cost differential per Kw/h. I have a friend that has this situation (not for a pool).
Well, I have not talked to the electric company, so a 2nd service may not be possible or make sense. I would likely incur some cost to change to the underground service (I would have to dig and run new conduit & wire back to the house), but the electric company would just be dropping the wire down the pole to the new pedestal meter and main panel, so that cost may not be high. The panel on the house would then be a subpanel and when I added the garage, it too would just be a subpanel to the main service.
OK, enough of my tangent/hijack ... back to Walt, please
The heater is a Raypak electric heat pump. In looking at their website the COP will be somewhere between 5 and 6. This is a used heater that our builder is selling us for $450. A new one sells for $2500. It'll probably only be used early and late in the season. Basically I just want to know if this guy is gouging me or if it's a fair price.
I guess I did not realize that heat pumps required so much power (the high load is likely just a starting load, so running may not be that much power).
The risk with any used heater is that you do not know how the water chemistry was kept previously. There could be a lot of internal damage/corrosion that is not readily noticeable. So, $450 might be good price, or the heater may fall apart in less than a year ... hard to say.
Where are you located? Have you considered solar heating in conjunction with a pool cover? That could help extend the season and the heating is free (after the initial cost). Many members (myself included) have found used solar panels for $1-$2 / sqft.
The risk with any used heater is that you do not know how the water chemistry was kept previously. There could be a lot of internal damage/corrosion that is not readily noticeable. So, $450 might be good price, or the heater may fall apart in less than a year ... hard to say.
Where are you located? Have you considered solar heating in conjunction with a pool cover? That could help extend the season and the heating is free (after the initial cost). Many members (myself included) have found used solar panels for $1-$2 / sqft.