TA Reading
- Thread starter imrodee
- Start date
- Jun 23, 2012
- 1,053
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Liquid Chlorine
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
- Jun 23, 2012
- 1,053
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Liquid Chlorine
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
OK.. My hopefully correct readings
FC = 0
CC = .25 (ONLY TOOK 1 DROP)
TC = .25
TA = 0
CH = 440
CYA = 55
I think my pool water is very sick. I brush it twice and day, last night there were signs of algae. I scrubbed them off the steps and all nooks and crannies. The PB said he would send his guy over here to add alkalinity and chlorine. They aren't here yet - so I'm leaving to go buy Bleach and anything else I need. Polyquat should be here today from Amazon.
What would you do?
FC = 0
CC = .25 (ONLY TOOK 1 DROP)
TC = .25
TA = 0
CH = 440
CYA = 55
I think my pool water is very sick. I brush it twice and day, last night there were signs of algae. I scrubbed them off the steps and all nooks and crannies. The PB said he would send his guy over here to add alkalinity and chlorine. They aren't here yet - so I'm leaving to go buy Bleach and anything else I need. Polyquat should be here today from Amazon.
What would you do?
Make sure the chlorine they add doesn't add either CH or CYA. Express to them the worries and see if they're OK adding liquid. Add enough bleach to raise FC to 8.....and once the PH and TA are up start maintaining a FC level of 8.
Add the polyquat once it arrives according to the bottle.
Add the polyquat once it arrives according to the bottle.
aa62579
0
imrodee said:
What sample size did you use for testing chlorine. None will give you that result. It will either be 0.2 or 0.5 if it took 1 drop. If you used the 25ml sample size, 1 drop = 0.2, if you used the 10ml sample size, 1 drop = 0.5. Not so important now since one drop of CC is fine either way, but once you start adding chlorine and getting real numbers to test, it will make a big difference.
- Jun 23, 2012
- 1,053
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Liquid Chlorine
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I used 10m of pool water, added the powder, added the next bottle (I'm not home) it turned dark pink So it took zero drops of the next bottle. Zero x anything equals zero. That's how I came up with that number.. When I get home, I'll do it again. I went along with the video, step by step. Hers turned one color, mine turned another. I sharpied all my bottles with the re agent #, and take only the one bottle out at a time, checking the label and the cap again. I am really trying. I have another kit my PB gave me. I used that as well. Cl is clear.
I just got an email that my amazon package arrived. I'll be home in 2 hours or so.
I appreciate your help!! (Typing on a small phone, pulled over at a gas station. )
I just got an email that my amazon package arrived. I'll be home in 2 hours or so.
I appreciate your help!! (Typing on a small phone, pulled over at a gas station. )
aa62579
0
imrodee said:
I was actually referring to the 0.25 number, not the zero.
But that is not the way you do the test. With the test, you count how many drops it takes to turn clear, not to turn pink.
If you had no FC, but did have CCs, here is how the test would be run.
Add the powder and since it didn't turn pink, so no need for the first reagent. This would tell you you had zero FC. Then you should have added 5 drops of reagent 2. if it turned pink here, you would need to go back and add drops of reagent 1 until the sample goes back clear.
If it took 1 drop to turn back clear, you woud have 0.5 ppm of CC.
For now all this really doesn't matter much, as the builder is taking care of the pool. But let's use this downtime to nail your testing. 
1. Take 10ml pool water
2. Add one scoop R-0870 powder and stir. If it turns pink at all...you have chlorine. If it's clear...you have none.
3. If the water is pink....add R-0871 while mixing the bottle. Do this until the water is clear.
------For Example. If after you added the powder your water turned pink. You then added 5 drops of R-0870 and the water turned clear. 5x0.5= an FC level of 2.5
4. Next, add 5 drops R-0003 to the water and stir. Again...if it's clear your CC level is zero.
5. If it's pink once again add R-0870 until the water is clear.
For Example.....if you added the 5 drops R-0003 and the water turns a very slight pink. You added 1 drop R-0870 and the water clears up. 1x0.5=CC level of 0.5
Once your home if you wish I maybe able to take a minute and go over the test via phone if you wish. Just depends on how the kids are yelling in the background.
1. Take 10ml pool water
2. Add one scoop R-0870 powder and stir. If it turns pink at all...you have chlorine. If it's clear...you have none.
3. If the water is pink....add R-0871 while mixing the bottle. Do this until the water is clear.
------For Example. If after you added the powder your water turned pink. You then added 5 drops of R-0870 and the water turned clear. 5x0.5= an FC level of 2.5
4. Next, add 5 drops R-0003 to the water and stir. Again...if it's clear your CC level is zero.
5. If it's pink once again add R-0870 until the water is clear.
For Example.....if you added the 5 drops R-0003 and the water turns a very slight pink. You added 1 drop R-0870 and the water clears up. 1x0.5=CC level of 0.5
Once your home if you wish I maybe able to take a minute and go over the test via phone if you wish. Just depends on how the kids are yelling in the background.
Now that just hurt!! Really.....those look like women's hands?? ;Dimrodee said:
aa62579
0
- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,668
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
aa62579 said:
This video:
[youtube:31yquoce]PHQG4tgQsFE[/youtube:31yquoce]
This comment:
imrodee said:
I think the point is that those don't look like a woman's hands to everyone...
- Jun 23, 2012
- 1,053
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Liquid Chlorine
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Not home yet... But that's not the same video! Lol! It was the video that someone posted here. That was a girl, if not, I really need more help than I thought!! Haha!! I'll find it when I get home. That's too funny!
Wow imrodee!!! You are busy busy!!!! New pool, having to work and deal with the contractors and learning here and trying to do what is best!!!
You are doing awesome!!!!
Here to cheer you along and see if i catch anything that i can interject to be helpful. The smarties here are wonderful, aren't they?
You'll be kickin your flippers just like me in NO TIME!!!!!!
You are doing awesome!!!!
Here to cheer you along and see if i catch anything that i can interject to be helpful. The smarties here are wonderful, aren't they?
You'll be kickin your flippers just like me in NO TIME!!!!!!
- Jun 23, 2012
- 1,053
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Liquid Chlorine
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
- Jun 14, 2012
- 2,668
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
- Jun 23, 2012
- 1,053
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Liquid Chlorine
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I want to test the water before the pool guys show up... I still have alot of "plaster dust.." which makes the pool look cloudy. I HOPE that's what it is. It had a green look to it yesterday. PB left with sample the other night - haven't heard a peep.
:-(
Here is what Diamond Brite says about the finish (I have a hybrid Tahoe Blue/Midnite mix) I am trying to avoid bleaching the color. But I don't want a green pool either.
Startup and Maintenance Procedures for Diamond Brite
1. After the finish is exposed, let it air dry for as long as conditions will allow. Delaying the fill water a few hours or until the next morning will reduce the occurrence of shade variations (Mottling). Care must be taken not to over-dry the plaster and cause shrinkage cracking. There are no substitutes for experience and knowledge of local conditions in determining how long to let plaster air dry.
2. Pre-filter the water with a carbon tank and use a sequestering agent to eliminate stain-causing contaminants.
3. Start the circulation system as soon as possible using the main drain line. Do Not start the system until the water level is above the return inlets. Circulate the pool continuously for the first 3 days.
4. On the first day test and record chlorine, pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness and temperature levels. Adjust pH to 7.2 to 7.4 and the Total Alkalinity to 100ppm. Dissolve all chemicals in water first and allow sufficient time for each chemical to be fully dispersed before adding others. Do Not add chlorine or calcium chloride.
5. Brush the entire surface twice each day for the first 3 days. Clean the filter as needed.
6. On the second day, repeat steps 4 and 5 above.
7. On the third day adjust all the chemistry to the following levels:
Free Chlorine: 1.0 to 3.0 ppm Ph: 7.4 to 7.6 Total Alkalinity 80 - 120 ppm
Calcium Hardness: 200 - 400 ppm Stabilizer: 30 to 100 ppm
8. Adjust the pump timer to normal operating hours.
9. Do not install automatic pool cleaners for 28 days.
10. Do not vacuum the pool with a wheeled vacuum for 14 days, to avoid leaving "Wheel Marks". Brush type vacuums may be used immediately.
11. Brush pool walls and floor daily for the first 2 weeks.
TODAY they want to come toss in 13 pounds of ALKALINITY PLUS, and hook up my Polaris. My pool was filled on Aug 4.
:-(
(Thanks...)
- Jun 23, 2012
- 1,053
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Liquid Chlorine
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hopefully ....
FC 9.5
CC .5
TC 10.0
TA 60
CH 450
CYA 50
Does this make sense? My Poly came, but I wanted to post these results before I put anything in.
Thank you!!!
Helen
FC 9.5
CC .5
TC 10.0
TA 60
CH 450
CYA 50
Does this make sense? My Poly came, but I wanted to post these results before I put anything in.
Thank you!!!
Helen
Those are the readings we're used to. Was this before or after they added chemicals today? If before I'd suggest questioning them adding 13lbs of TA up assuming your PH level is OK (didn't list it). Let's make sure two items on the test.....
1. For the Fas/dpd you added the powder and it turned pink....19 drops turned it clear,?
2. For TA....you added the drops and the water went greenish. 6 drops turned it a pinkish red color?
As the the algicide.....assuming you can keep enough FC in the pool to keep algae from growing its not needed....but with all that's going on, in my mind it's cheap insurance. I'd add a dose according to the bottle. Your water is starting to grow algae, however you're still in construction phase so it may or may not be perfect looking for now.
Was this before or after they added chemicals today? If before I'd suggest questioning them adding 13lbs of TA up assuming your PH level is OK (didn't list it). Let's make sure two items on the test.....1. For the Fas/dpd you added the powder and it turned pink....19 drops turned it clear,?
2. For TA....you added the drops and the water went greenish. 6 drops turned it a pinkish red color?
As the the algicide.....assuming you can keep enough FC in the pool to keep algae from growing its not needed....but with all that's going on, in my mind it's cheap insurance. I'd add a dose according to the bottle. Your water is starting to grow algae, however you're still in construction phase so it may or may not be perfect looking for now.