Tried drain and circulate, no water is moving at all. I also checked again to make sure that nothing is obstructing the impeller.
Cavatation, Clogs and Crazy-making
- Thread starter BeanTree
- Start date
Can you see the impeller moving? Even take the lid off, let the water drain, and turn it on briefly and see if you can see it turning.
If it is turning at 3600 RPM as it should, even with just a little water in the basket, the water should be churning at least some.
Maybe it is just turning too slow to get water moving ... which could be a capacitor I guess (not 100% on that).
If it is turning at 3600 RPM as it should, even with just a little water in the basket, the water should be churning at least some.
Maybe it is just turning too slow to get water moving ... which could be a capacitor I guess (not 100% on that).
If all else fails and you have waterproof PVC glue... and a new coupling... and are willing to take a shower, you could cut the pipe that leaves the pump and see if it will make a geyser with the pump running.
I was thinking you could cut in the tube going up, leaving enough room in the pipe to glue it back together.... or even the straight section going toward the trash can.
I know this is a radical idea but it would prove the block exists after the pump.
I was thinking you could cut in the tube going up, leaving enough room in the pipe to glue it back together.... or even the straight section going toward the trash can.
I know this is a radical idea but it would prove the block exists after the pump.
So it is possible that the impeller is spinning but just too slow?
You cannot see the impeller itself with the basket lid off.
You cannot see the impeller itself with the basket lid off.
You would see a little water moving if it was turning slow. I would verify that the impeller is turning. Sounds like your impeller has broken from where it screws on to the motor shaft.
- Jun 20, 2012
- 439
BeanTree said:
If the motor is spinning the impeller it's turning at the correct (3450 rpm) speed.
You cannot tell if the impeller is clogged by feeling it through the front of the pump housing. You have to detach the motor from the pump (that big clamp that separates the two halves. Then remove the diffuser (the gizmo that covers the impeller). Then, and only then, you can use a wire to clean out any obstructions in the impeller vanes (work from the outside in).
Yes, if the impeller broke loose of the pump, it could spin the motor freely without any water resistance but not pump water.
This is why I suggested the tube cut. Prove the pump...pumps water when installed.
This is why I suggested the tube cut. Prove the pump...pumps water when installed.
techguy said:
But running on Waste is basically the same thing (assuming no clog in the multi-valve).
I just have a feeling it is not spinning at 3400 rpm OR the impeller is completely plugged to see no churning in the pump basket.
I just took the motor off of the pump and checked the impeller again. It is moving, freely. There is NOTHING obstructing the impellers. I have pics I will post if you want me too. The impeller looks fine.
jblizzle said:
I completely agree...but what if something is impacted in the pipe section or in the multivalve by the filter?
- Jun 20, 2012
- 439
Had the impeller spun loose, it would have likely jammed against the diffuser, raising all kinds of havoc. If the impeller threads had completely stripped, it will come right off the shaft. The ONLY way to tell is to pull the motor, remove the diffuser and check the impeller up close and personal.
FYI: Unless Variable Speed these kinds of motors (synchronous) have no choice but to spin at the proper RPM (3450 RPM). If some condition prevents that the motor will almost immediately overheat and stop working.
While writing this post you posted a picture of your pump.
I can't see a diffuser there??? Can you tilt the motor up some and take picture where we can see more of the face of the seal plate?
FYI: Unless Variable Speed these kinds of motors (synchronous) have no choice but to spin at the proper RPM (3450 RPM). If some condition prevents that the motor will almost immediately overheat and stop working.
While writing this post you posted a picture of your pump.
I can't see a diffuser there??? Can you tilt the motor up some and take picture where we can see more of the face of the seal plate?
The diffuser...is that the plate that goes in front of the impeller? I really do not want to open this thing back up.
Could it be the check valve? I am looking at the manual for the pump...
http://www.waterace.com/pdf/23833A157%287-9-08%29.pdf
It is the RSP15
Could it be the check valve? I am looking at the manual for the pump...
http://www.waterace.com/pdf/23833A157%287-9-08%29.pdf
It is the RSP15
vsyzer said:
Yeah ... it looks like half the impeller is missing. Shouldn't those curved lines should be between 2 plates ( or are some pool pumps different?)
Maybe try adding a picture like this:
There is a plate that goes in front of what you see there. IT was in my hand when I took the pic. is it supposed to be attached to the impeller blades?
Ok looking at the parts list from a dealer, we may have found the problem. I think what I thought was 2 pieces is actually supposed to be ONE piece!
http://www.poolandspastuff.com/PumpPart ... terAce.htm
check out that impeller. What they show, I have in 2 parts. That would explain this. Now...to get this o
http://www.poolandspastuff.com/PumpPart ... terAce.htm
check out that impeller. What they show, I have in 2 parts. That would explain this. Now...to get this o
Can you post a photo of what the "plate" in you hand looked like. If its the outside portion of the impeller... that could be your issue.
- Jun 20, 2012
- 439
BeanTree said:
Yep, all of the above. Replace the impeller. (I have glued them back together, but why bother).
Finally, you've found it!
