Compupool cpsc36 Questions

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Hazmat

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Jul 29, 2012
4
First post. Lots of expertise on this board so I'm hoping someone can help me with this issue. I have a 3 year old Compupool cpsc36 that is not working right. It keeps showing "over salt" but the strips tell me that I'm right at 3500 ppm. Also, it is not putting out much chlorine, even on super. My cell is clean (about a month ago for an acid wash), ph is at 7.2-7.4 and stabilizer is about 50-60 ppm. Does the unit quit producing chlorine if it thinks it has high salt (and is there some way for the unit to tell me what salt level it is measuring vs. using the strips)? Chlorine level got out of whack when I was out of town so I added "Banish" algecide and that is copper based. Could that be a problem? I'm adding Jumbo tablets for chlorine now.

Anyway, sorry to log on for the first time and barrage you folks with questions.

Howard
 
Hi, I'm not one of the resident experts, but I do have a compupool cpsc48.

I've read where a lot of people have problems with the high salt indicator, I do, but basically ignore it as long as there is the cloud in the cell. If your test strips are relatively new/fresh, then I'd trust them.

So, if you can see the cloud in the cell, then it is producing chlorine. If you don't see the cloud, then it's not.

If you see the cloud, and have trouble keeping up the free chlorine level, then most likely, you have organics consuming the chlorine quicker than the SWG can produce. The only way to know that is to measure CC and / or do an OCLT.

I doubt the problem has anything to do with the algecide.

I'm sure the real experts will be along shortly, and most likely they will ask for a full set of test results.

Good luck!
 
Welcome to TFP!

Both the SWG and the test strips have fairly wide +- range on their measurements. The SWG is slightly more likely to be correct, and the SWG is the one that needs to be kept happy. I recommend replacing a little water to get the salt level down a bit. It shouldn't take very much water replacement, since I can't see you being very much above the maximum.

Copper bases products have their problems, sometimes quite serious, but they will not affect the SWG.
 
Jason's post got me thinking more - does it always indicate high salt or just sometimes? Also, take a look at the water temp when it shows high salt - mine says 32 F. When the high salt light is off, the temp shows something much closer to correct (+- 10 degrees). Compupool told me that if it says 32, that means there was an internal testing problem and it defaults to 32.

Mine will show high salt for a few hours, and then it clears. I called Compupool about the problem, they had me change the calibration and when that didn't help, they said the board was bad. Then sent a new one and I still have the problem, but not as frequently. I get the feeling from them that they really do want to help, but don't have the solution nailed down.

Even when mine says high salt, it still makes the cloud so I know it's working. I'm able to maintain the FC level where I need it so I've decided that this is good enough for me.
 
Here's what I suggest:

Get the pool store to measure your salt content also. Now, armed with what your CPSC says, the strips say, and what the pool store says, call Compupool. I did the same and there's a way to recalibrate the unit. I did not go through the process yet (I'm still at 5400 ppm, CPSC says 3200), so until it comes down more I'm not going to recalibrate. Compupool told me there is nothing to worry about up to 6000 ppm, but if you go over you are most likely going to need to replace some water.
 
I still believe there's some benefit to getting them on the phone, so they can go through some diagnostics with you before you start recalibrating. You might want to make sure you are recalibrating to an accurate standard before you go making changes.
 
Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send it to you. I've also seen it here somewhere, but easier to just send it directly.

Just a side note about the "calibration" - to me, it is more of a "correction" factor - a true calibration would entail instructing the control unit that a particular value that it is currently reading actually equals some known value. This is not what happens with the Compupool - you just give it some factor that it applies when making its' calculations - kind of hokey if you ask me :wink:
 
My test strips read 3500 and so does the pool store's (Leslie's) so I'm pretty sure it is the SWG that is off. Reading other posts, I see that is a common issue with Compupool units. Even though there is a slight cloud in the output, the chlorine content is real low (almost negligible). I checked the treated water coming straight out of the unit. I still don't know how to get into the unit Menu to make it tell me what it believes the salt level to be or the water temperature, I just have the red "over salt" light on all the time. If someone can give me a pointer how to enter the more detailed menu, I'll gather what info I can and contact Compupool. Do they have a US location or must I call Australia?

Thanks for the help so far by the way...
 

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Hazmat,
I'm not at home right now to check, but from memory:

If you press and hold the button in between the up and down arrow for about 5 seconds, you will enter the setup mode - same place you set the time - then press the button again a few times and it will display the water temp.

If you have a newer model like I do, it won't actually tell you what it thinks the salt reading is. It will just say salt ok, salt high, or salt low. I'm pretty sure they changed this because of all the people calling them saying the salt reading doesn't match the pool store, test strip, etc.

Here is the link to Compupool usa: http://www.compupoolproducts.com/index.html

They are very nice and polite. However, I'll go out on a limb and make a prediction: Your first call will result in someone telling you to "re-calibrate" the unit (really just means to try a different correction factor). If you call back and tell them that that didn't work, they will want to replace the lcd screen, either under warranty or you buy a new one if the warranty is expired (the LCD screen is actually on a circuit board that is a lot more than just a display). That was where I gave up after changing the board and still having the same intermittent high salt light.

When I called, like I said, they were very polite. But my impression of their troubleshooting was not so great. Basically they have a known issue that they first try to resolve with the calibration, and second with a part changeout. Also, from what I have read, all of the R&D, and thus, detailed knowledge of how they function, is in Austrailia. So again, I'll give them kudos all day long on "attitude", but they fell short in the "solved my problem" category.

If I had it to do over again, I would do EXACTLY the same thing. I have learned to accept that the high salt light will turn on and turn off - it means nothing to me as long as the cloud is in the cell and my FC stays where I need it. So far this works, and the price of the unit compared to others make it something I'll live with.

Hopefully I'm in the minority....

When yours says over salt, check on the temp and let us know.....
 
An update. I used a link from this forum and checked the salt level calibration settings on my CPSC36. For both polarities, they were at -7. According to the instructions on the link, they were supposed to be at +27. A huge difference. I set them both to that and now the unit is telling me it needs salt (strips say it is around 3600) so I'm guessing that the +27 is too high and I went too far. At least it is putting out chlorine now that it thinks it is low on salt. I'll try resetting to around +18 tomorrow (too many mosquitoes out there now)and see what that does for me. Other thing is that I still cannot enter the technicians menu. I hold the button between the up and down arrow and get to the place to set the time but any more pushes and it just goes back to the normal mode. Another link said to kill power and hold down super and winter mode buttons while turning the power back on. My unit will not come on when those two buttons are held. Any other thoughts on how to access the menu would be appreciated.
 
Did you ever get resolution on this. The new instructions now use an amp meter also.
CPSC 36 Pol 1 + 18, Pol 2 +16 then amp meter around cell negative wire, calibrate 30A (left/right arrows) then up arrow to change polarity.
 
Thanks for the follow-up. I did get the chlorine output to an ok level. Not sure I've got the unit calibrated properly though. I had to get the pool resurfaced and new led lights added (ouch) and the company that did it said to leave the generator off till spring time. I'll use the tablets all winter and will find out when I add salt if I've got it right. I will try the amp meter as you suggest. Thanks again.
 
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