Going to be re-plumbing my pad...

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roadking00

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May 2, 2012
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North of Charlotte, NC
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I will be redoing my pad at the end of this season and figured I would start this thread now because I know I'll have a bunch of questions and ideas as it gets closer to the renovation, I'll be sure to post some before/during/after pics as well :cool:

For now the one thing that has been on my mind is..
Suction to discharge tie line for vac ?? I currently have a dedicated pressure side line for my Polaris 360 cleaner and was curious if its logical to have the filter outlet piped to it as it is right now but also adding a suction side to it as well, with proper isolation valves on both lines so this way if I decided to try or go with a suction side auto vac setup in the future it can easily be configured just by a quick valve alignment and not have to redo any piping once again...or if I decide I dont like the way the suction type vac works after all I can easily switch back to the pressure type? It may sound crazy but I figured if its just a matter of an extra valve or two and a bit more PVC to have that convenient option what the heck ??
 
You can do that if you really want to, but personally I would keep it simple and plumb it the way you are going to be using it right away. Or, if it won't be used right away, leave the pipe disconnected until you decide how you are going to use it.
 
With the Jandy never-lube valves, is there any reason/benefit I should use 2 separate Jandy 2-port valves on my filter outlet, one going to my return jets and one for my Polaris vac port and throttle both when its vacuum time ? Or is it a waste of a extra valve rather then just going with a 3-way valve set up ??
 
The 3 way will work just as well as 2 separate valves. Plus if you ever add automation, you only need 1 actuator to select the cleaner.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)
 
Is it beneficial to pipe in all 1.5" to 2" adaptors where needed on my pad like at my pump suction/dis harge and my multiport valve since they are already only 1.5" and have everthing else 2" pipe/valves to only have to reduce it back down to 1.5 at my existing return/supply pipes before they go underground to and from the pool?? Or not much of a benefit and stick with the 1.5" all the way through? ?
 
The more of the 2" pipe you can use, the lower the head loss and higher the flow rate.

Which pump do you have? Even my small Superflo had unions fittings that worked with 2" pipe and it is only a 1HP. I am surprised that it is limited to 1.5" (same with the multiport).
 
jblizzle said:
The more of the 2" pipe you can use, the lower the head loss and higher the flow rate.

Which pump do you have? Even my small Superflo had unions fittings that worked with 2" pipe and it is only a 1HP. I am surprised that it is limited to 1.5" (same with the multiport).
Click to expand...

I'll have to look into that when I get home..its a pacfab 1.5 HP...i was just thinking if its only going to get reduced down to 1.5" at the return piping anyhow,and the suction only at 1.5" underground the increased flow and lower head loss would only be effected on the 10-20 ft of total 2" piping at the pad above ground,right?? Would is still make a difference on the system as a whole? ?
 
The head loss is a total of the entire system. If you can help the flow (even if only for part of the plumbing), the resistance is lower in that section and thus affects the entire system.

Using larger pipe lowers head loss more than just about any other possible change. It would take removing a LOT of 1.5" fittings to lower head loss as much as upsizing the pipe and fittings.
 

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My existing floor in my pump house is dirt except for the small slab the sand filter and pump are on, is there any reason I couldnt eliminate the small slab? I had planned on using some heavy duty 1" thick rubber mats (like the type they use for flooring at a gym) to line the whole floor section in the pump house...or is it recommended to still place a premade slab of concrete under my filter and pump? ? And that being said i do plan on leveling out the whole floor area prior to installing the sections of rubber mat...

Before pics of my layout soon to come :)
 
I think using something to distribute the weight of the filter is a good idea. Everything does not have to be on the same pad (mine aren't) anything that makes sure nothing settles differently.

I am not sure I would put the filter just on rubber on the dirt as the ground could still settle.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)
 
Re: Going to be re-plumbing my pad...FINALLY :)

OK folks, I'm planning on finally getting started on my pad redo here in the next couple months
and starting to lay out some options compared to my existing layout.I Would love to have any and all
recommendations/tips from any and all.

Have a few questions/concerns as well...

1. Any recommended places to install a check valve or 2 in my above ground 2"PVC ??

2. Any Specifics as to where I should have 2 Tee fittings for future tap off for solar panels on roof ?

3. Also any other specific fittings I should pipe in , for adding a place to blow out lines for winter etc.. ??

4. I plan on using all 2-way 2" never-lube valves at all lines going into ground for versatility, any thoughts?


The floor is all dirt as of right now (except for the small existing pad under filter)and I plan on either
doing all cement in the Orange layed out section or thinking about large pavers for accessibility in the future if need be ?
The rest od the floor will end up being 1" thick 4'x 6' rubber mats butted up to the slab or pavers??


I'll be relocating the electrical panel off of the 4x4 post and putting it in the wall where it belongs, as well as whatever
is needed to rewire my time-clock/clocks, stenner pump ect...

Here is a pic of my existing layout as well as what I think would be a good configuration for my
pump house when everything is done.(is it obvious I have some time to doodle at work) :shock:

2012-10-14_21-04-47_66.jpg


2012-10-14_21-56-07_424.jpg
 
jblizzle said:
I think using something to distribute the weight of the filter is a good idea. Everything does not have to be on the same pad (mine aren't) anything that makes sure nothing settles differently.

I am not sure I would put the filter just on rubber on the dirt as the ground could still settle.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)
Click to expand...

Yeah , after thinking about the possible issues with settling I will be most likely be using either some type of large pavers or cement slab type sections ?
 
Probably just another stupid question ....I will be shop vacuuming my sand from my filter not only to be able to move the filter around easier when i relocate it but also will inspect the laterals/internals at the same time...i realise sand doesn't go bad so is there any reason i cant just put my same sand back in the filter if it looks fine rather then replacing it all? ? Or if im at this point already should I just plan on replacing all? ?
 
The layout looks ok to me. I'd want more room around the filter but that's not a big deal.

I'd use pavers for the floor, but concrete isn't an issue either.

I'd use a 3-way valve on the pump suction and not install a check valve. You can use the 3-way to shut off the suction when you need to open the pump basket, etc..
 
Bama Rambler said:
The layout looks ok to me. I'd want more room around the filter but that's not a big deal.

I'd use pavers for the floor, but concrete isn't an issue either.

I'd use a 3-way valve on the pump suction and not install a check valve. You can use the 3-way to shut off the suction when you need to open the pump basket, etc..
Click to expand...


Would'nt a 3 way valve on my suction limit my control over the MD and skimmer suction? ? Either the MD or Skimmer would be some what throttled right? I wouldnt be able to have 100% to either suction, or am I wrong on that? Is a check valve reccomended anywhere on the discharge side?
 
With a 3-way you would be able to have 100% of either, both or a percentage of one or the other. To have 100% of both lines you just turn the gate completely to the back side of the valve (handle in line with the middle port).

I don't recommend a check valve except in special situations (i.e. solar).
 

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