New Home/Pool Owner - What did I buy?

[zavji]

Hello all, I am a new pool owner and know nothing about pools, but need to learn. First big question is what did I buy? :?:

Second big question, how do I check and set the panel? What values are important?, what should their values be? Should I hire a pool tech to walk me through everything?

Pointing me in the right direction would be a big help. thanks.

 

[anonapersona]

Looks like you can add SWG to that signature.

You may want to get a pool tech, if the price is reasonable, but there are folks here that can walk you through it all also. At purchase my pool inspector told me the basics, but it wasn't their better guy so he missed some things. Not sure I'd have paid for the info.

I will say that now is the time to order a good test kit and read Pool School. I suggest taking notes as you read. Particularly in the Test Kits Compared section. It is tempting to try to find a test kit locally but most of us to to www.tftestkits.net for our supplies due to the value and speed of delivery.

In general, the values that are critical on a daily basis are FC, CC, and pH. You also need to know TA, CH, and CYA up front. FC (free chlorine) drops a lot daily and has to be renewed, in your case by the SWG. How fast it drops depends on the CYA (stabilizer) which for a SWG ought to be rather high lilke 75 - 85 depending on your location. pH must stay in the comfort range and tends to go up with a SWG and how fast it does depends on TA which comes from tap water or chemicals we add. CH is important for the surface of the pool and can affect the operation of the SWG particularly if pH gets too high. CC is a by product of chlorine usage and too much smells bad and stings the eyes, indicates a problem. All of these are tested by the TF100 test kit which I use.

 

[linen]

I seems your set up is pretty straight forward, so I think this forum can help. Like anon said, you have a Saltwater Chlorine Generator (swg) that will provide chlorine to your pool. It is controlled by the pro logic controller on your wall (which is nice). Your piping is pretty simple. Right now your are pulling water from two places, probably a floor drain and 1 skimmer. The water goes through you hayward pump, through your cartridge filter, through the swg (the thing that has the white cable going to it from the pro logic controller) then back to two returns, or which the pipe on the right has more flow than the pipe on the left due to valve position.

On the left of your filter and to the right of your swg is an auxiliary pump that is a separate water loop from the rest. It most likely for a water feature such as a waterfall or deck jets, etc.

Post some pictures of the pool, pump label and cartridge label.

 

[Richard320]

You bought a ce-ment pond!

It looks pretty straightforward. A little experimenting with the valves will show you which pipe goes where. At least they're manual valves, not electrically controlled by your prologic. Which, while I'm sure work fine once set up, have been the topic of many threads here when something goes wrong. The saltwater generator spares you having to buy jugs of bleach. Be grateful for it.

I can't read what model prologic you have, but you should be able to find a manual online for it. Download it once you find the right one. Here's one possibility: http://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/Manual340.pdf

You done good by looking for a forum like this before you have a huge problem and/or get pool-stored. Keep it that way by getting your own test kit. You can read the article in Pool School, or just save time and head to http://tftestkits.net and order up a TF100. I also recommend a speedstir. You're already spending wads of money setting up the new house, but unlike curtains and towelbars and paint, this one will save you money in the long run.

 

[zavji]

Here are some pics of the pool, the dedicated pump is for diver-dan, i.e., the polaris. If you look hard, you can just make out the water feature in the center of the first picture, it is powered by the filter pump.

I have gone to the pool school, bought the TF100, last Saturday's values were; (bought the salt test and swirler too)
FC 2.5
Ph 8.2
TA 100
CH 220
CYA 20
CC 1
TC 3.5
Salt 4000

I am now in the process of finding the chemicals in my area, trying to avoid the pool stores. Sorry to say I was pool-stored twice before I found this forum.

The current challenge is to master the prologic, I'll check the onlline manuals suggested. Thanks for all the help.

 

[mpacheco72]

With CC of 1 you'll need to shock the pool. Read Pool School to understand how to do it correctly. Your pool is very nice!

 

[linen]

As mpach said CC of one indicates an need to do the shocking process.

...BUT...before you do that, your ph is high and may be even higher than 8.2 since the test indicates 8.2 for ph above that. Use Muriatic Acid to lower down to 7.2-7.4 before starting the shocking process.

 

[Mesamav]

20 CYA? Isn't that pretty low with a SWG?????

 

[linen]

20 CYA? Isn't that pretty low with a SWG?????

Yes, but if the op needs to do the shocking process, that is most efficient at lower cya levels...so shocking first, then when the op is done with that, we can discuss raising cya.

 

[zavji]

Pix of Filter and Pump

 

[zavji]

Ok, found the chems at HD. Shocked last night with trichlor. Values this morning were

FC 2
Ph 7.2
TA 70
CH 280
CYA 40
CC 0.5

 

[linen]

I would recommend not shocking with trichlor, since it does more than just add chlorine (adds cya and lowers ph). Use bleach/liquid chlorine. Also shocking is a process make sure to review the shocking process: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/shocking_your_pool

 

[zavji]

Crystal clear water! I can't believe how clear it is. Also I have figured out the prologic Thank you!

29-Jul
FC 3
Ph 7.2
TA 80
CH 280
CYA 70
CC 0
TC 3

I know the PH is a little low, fixing that today.

 

[UnderWaterVanya]

The pH in a pool with a SWG tends to drift up so you could wait and see if yours does rather than adding things to push it up now.