AQUARITE SWG

Jul 26, 2012
4
HI EVERYONE,
by using this forum,i was able to change out the limiter on the panel of my SWG box,so firstly...thank you for all the info,the limiter was cracked.
i have a few questions about the readings.
1,the generating light is on(also the power) but the cell voltage is around 30.0
2,the current reads at 0.00 which it is suppose to read at that when it is not generating.
i have noticed that the current will adjust back to the 4.50 to 7.80 range now and then.
so my question is:
are these readings a problem?
should the limiter be hot after soldered back in place?
many thanks
 
Sounds normal to me.

The % setting is the amount of time the cell is actually generating. So if you have it set to 50% ... it will only actually be generating (high current) 30 minutes out of every hour for example and the other 30 minutes the current will be zero. I am not sure what the real time window is, might be less than 1 hour.
 
thanks jblizzle.....
should the generating light stay on when the current is at 0.00???
the book says that the current should be at 0.00 if it is not generating
my salt is very high(4400...should be between 2700 and 3400)...would that have anything to do with it?
i have plenty of chlorine etc but main concern is generation light being on when current is 0.00
thanks
 
I am not totally sure on that, but think I recall the light staying on at all times and the current being the indication if it was generating or not.

Have you checked the manual? I would have to look it up online.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)
 
Hi rarodog,

The 0 amp reading is normal when the unit is not producing chlorine. In order to get an accurate voltage & amperage reading you need to turn the unit to 100% output, wait 5 minutes then take your readings. You indicate that your salt reading was 4400, if that is what your display is showing then you should also be getting a High Salt light indicator. This would turn the unit off and not allow it to produce chlorine. If this is the case you will need to drain some water from your pool and refill it with fresh unsalted water. If you arrived at the 4400 salt level independently of the SWG reading then you need to turn the unit off ASAP as it could cause the unit to overheat. This overheating could damage the unit. If your salt level is 4400 from an independent salt test and your SWG shows that the level is 600 ppm or more less than the independent reading then you may have a failed cell. Cells usually last about 5 years on average in a seasonal market and 3 years in a year round market. If you think this is the case check the Hayward web site for a retailer near you that can test your cell.

Best of luck to you.

Jim Garrison
The Guru of Pools
 
thanks jim,
the salt level is high because when i opened the pool this year,i did not realise that the salt cell was dead and kept pouring salt into it!!!!....i have just replaced the salt cell.
i have turned to 100% for 5 minutes and readings for amps and currents is 23.4 and 7.85....and then when i turned the dial down,it went to 0.00....so i think it is working ok......pump does seem to be running hot though...is that normal??
thanks
 
Hi Rarodog,

That is great news! The pump running hot is not unusual in hot weather. The motor is designed to run 40° centigrade hotter than the ambient air temperature. 40° centigrade is 104° Fahrenheit, so if it is 98° outside the motor would run 202° Fahrenheit! Ouch! The motor has a thermal protector so if it gets too hot it will turn itself off until it cools down. The fact that it is still running means it has not hit it's limit so it should be fine.

Have a great summer swimming in your pool!

Jim Garrison
The Guru of Pools
 
many thanks jim
i am in oklahoma,so it has been over 100 for the last 3 weeks and will be for the next 3!!!!......never noticed that heat to the motor before but there was apparently alot of things i had not noticed before!!! lol....thanks for all your advice and help.
greg
 
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