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Thread: DIVNKD101 First Test Results (Updated) with Tf-100 Test Kit

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    divnkd101's Avatar
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    DIVNKD101 First Test Results (Updated) with Tf-100 Test Kit

    As I have enjoyed reading and moderating everyones post, it is your turn to moderate mine. I finally sat down and did a thorough test of my pool using the TF-100 I purchased from TROUBLE FREE TEST KITS. I was a little skeptical I would screw something up and a little nervous of what my first results would be... So, please offer me some feedback on my results.

    PH= 8.2 (I have added 2.5 Qts. of Acid less than an hour ago, after I finished testing)
    FC=3.5
    CC=.5
    TC=4
    TA=200
    CH=170
    CYA=50
    Salt = 3400
    MIKE

    21K Inground Custom w/ Spa (Gunite/Plaster), SWCG, Hayward Northstar, Polaris 280, Hayward Color Logics, Jandy PS-8

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    I am guessing you have a salt syatem? I know nothing about salt syatems so this might be a dumb question, BUT where is your PH reading?
    27' Round AG, 17,200 gallons, sand filter

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    Re: DIVNKD101 First Test Results with Tf-100 Test Kit

    Quote Originally Posted by divnkd101
    As I have enjoyed reading and moderating everyones post, it is your turn to moderate mine. I finally sat down and did a thorough test of my pool using the TF-100 I purchased from TROUBLE FREE TEST KITS. I was a little skeptical I would screw something up and a little nervous of what my first results would be... So, please offer me some feedback on my results.

    PH= 8.2 (I have added 2.5 Qts. of Acid less than an hour ago, after I finished testing)
    FC=3.5
    CC=.5
    TC=4
    TA=200
    CH=170
    CYA=50
    Salt = 3400
    divnkd101,

    I am very disappointed you didn't give anyone the opportunity to yell at you for that 8.2pH. Many of us live for those moments and, while we're a little depressed, we'll get over it.

    Those are pretty good numbers. I'm assuming your water looks great. Check your pH again soon...it'll usually respond after only a few hours and fine tune it into that 7.2 - 7.6 range

    The CC of .5 suggests a borderline need to shock but, if your water stays looking nice, I think I'd leave it alone and test again in a day or so. My pool frequently tests very close to .5 CC but it will take care of itself with the normal maintenance level of Cl. In short, I think you're OK.

    The TA should come down with your pH...test it again when you check pH

    CH is good enough for now. If you want it in the ideal 200-400 range (assuming your pool is gunite) consider using some Cal Hypo....it'll chlorinate your pool and add calcium slowly. It would be perfect for you to shock your pool with it (if you decide to shock)

    CYA seems about perfect for a SWG pool.

    Go swimming!!!
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    divnkd101's Avatar
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    Thanks so much for the feedback. PoolIdiot, you are correct, I do have a Salt System in place. My pH was off a little. I have had parties the last 3 weekends and have added quite of bit of water to get the levels back where they should be (without adding chems.) All in all, I was pleased with my results. Dave, thanks for the suggestions. We have rain in the forecast for the balance of the week. I will probably shock this weekend. Now that I have a handle on the test kit, I plan to go through and do another thorough test. I will document each test (with photos) and post online in the attempts to give everyone an idea of how easy the test kit truly is. Thanks again.
    MIKE

    21K Inground Custom w/ Spa (Gunite/Plaster), SWCG, Hayward Northstar, Polaris 280, Hayward Color Logics, Jandy PS-8

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    With your starting numbers, I calculate that you would have to add 67 ounces (about 8 and a third cups) of Muriatic Acid (31.45% hydrochloric acid) to get the pH down to 7.5 and that this would lower your TA to 188. I suspect that you will be fighting rising pH and should lower your TA, but your Calcium Hardness (CH) level is low and should be raised if you lower your TA.

    If you decide to lower your TA level, then follow this procedure, but also increase your CH to 300 and have your target pH (after lowering your TA) to be around 7.7. That should significantly slow down the tendency of the pH to rise. You could also add 50 ppm Borates for a further reduction, but should lower your TA first and see how that goes.

    For the lowering of TA, I calculate it will take 108 ounces (13.4 cups) of Muriatic Acid to lower the pH to 7.0 and then with aeration and acid addition it will take a further amount of acid (added only when the pH rises to 7.2 to get to 7.0, then cycling) of 58.7 cups total in the aeration/acid cycle at which point the TA will be at 80 ppm. Then aeration alone will raise the pH to your 7.7 target. The process is essentially as follows:

    PROCEDURE .......... pH .. TA
    ===================

    Acid ....................... - ..... - ... Lower pH to 7.0 ( or next to lowest measurement on pH test kit, but not below 6.8 )

    Aeration ................ + ..... 0 ... Waterfalls, fountains, showers, point returns up, splash, run SWG
    Acid ....................... - ..... - ... When pH from aeration rises to 7.2, add acid to lower to 7.0
    -----------------------------------
    Aeration + Acid ...... 0 ..... - ... Repeat the above until the TA gets to your target ( e.g. 80 ppm )

    Aeration ................ + ..... 0 ... Aerate (and no longer add acid) until pH rises to target pH ( e.g. 7.7 )

    ===================
    Net Result .............. 0 ..... - ... Net result is lowering TA with no change in pH ( unless final pH target is different than starting pH )
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
    12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"

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    CG, thanks for the tips. I see the relation of aeration and the rise of pH. I have a bubbler (Jet) on my tanning ledge rougly 8" below the surface shooting directly upwards providing a 12-18" fountain. To help maintain my pH at manageable levels, do you suggest turning that bubbler off??? I have sort of started your described process, minus the aeration of course by adding upwards of 10 cups (2.5 quarts) of acid last night. I was shooting for the lower end of the pH scale. We do have rain scheduled for the remainder of the week so I am sure my chemistry will change again. I will post again this weekend and let you know the outcome. Thanks again and please keep the suggestions coming.
    MIKE

    21K Inground Custom w/ Spa (Gunite/Plaster), SWCG, Hayward Northstar, Polaris 280, Hayward Color Logics, Jandy PS-8

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    OK, after a nice swim once I finished mowing, clearing out the grass from the pool, etc. I figured it was time to pull out the TF-100 and let her rip again. This is what I came up with.

    pH - 7.8
    FC - 8
    CC - 0
    TC - 8
    TA - 120
    CH - 220
    CYA - 50
    SALT - 3200

    Now, if you remember from my first post, I was a little concerned with my calcium level. I did add 12 Lbs. of Cal-Hypo last weekend. Obviously adding that also raised my Chlorine level. I think at this point, the only thing I plan to do, is add some acid tomorrow evening and I should be good to go for the weekend. Any comments/ suggestions are welcome and appreciated.
    MIKE

    21K Inground Custom w/ Spa (Gunite/Plaster), SWCG, Hayward Northstar, Polaris 280, Hayward Color Logics, Jandy PS-8

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    Mike,

    It doesn't get much better then that. Drop that pH a little and I think you have a...."Trouble Free Pool"

    Nice work....back in the day, my folks would've called you a "quick study"
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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