I need help with bonding my Resin pool, walls ,water and pump. Anyone have any info on this. I am using a Pentair clean and Clear filter with a 2 speed opti flo pump. Thanks
Bonding question for a Sharkline Matrix
- Thread starter bythecreek
- Start date
There are lots of bonding threads here and they most likely have the info you need. Once you've searched them, feel free to post any specific info you don't find or understand.
It looks like that Matrix is all resin except the wall. If that's the case you'll have to attach bonding lugs in 4 places around the pool through the wall. It may already come predrilled for the lugs.
It looks like that Matrix is all resin except the wall. If that's the case you'll have to attach bonding lugs in 4 places around the pool through the wall. It may already come predrilled for the lugs.
Is this an above ground pool? When you say resin pool, do you mean just the uprights and top rails? The pool side/s are still metal correct? Usually the bonding system will include 4 pionts equally spaced around the pool to bond the rails, uprights and bottom track. They require 4 points min because there are so many parts in the structure. However, since resin is not considered a conductive material there is no requirement per the NEC to bond them.
The bonding system you install still needs to conform to the NEC requirements and other local codes. The NEC requires a wire buried around the perimiter of the pool 18 inches away from the sides. This wire needs to be connected to the bond lug on the pump and heater. There is also a requirement for the water to have a 9 square inch water bond as well that is tied to this system.
The tricky part is the metal pool walls. Since this is usually one piece (above ground) it realy only would need one connection point. However your local inspector may see this differently (each has his own interpretation of the code) and require 4 points.
Please let us know if this is an inground or an above ground pool If this is a metal wall or one of the intec temporary pools. Temps have a different code requirement
The bonding system you install still needs to conform to the NEC requirements and other local codes. The NEC requires a wire buried around the perimiter of the pool 18 inches away from the sides. This wire needs to be connected to the bond lug on the pump and heater. There is also a requirement for the water to have a 9 square inch water bond as well that is tied to this system.
The tricky part is the metal pool walls. Since this is usually one piece (above ground) it realy only would need one connection point. However your local inspector may see this differently (each has his own interpretation of the code) and require 4 points.
Please let us know if this is an inground or an above ground pool If this is a metal wall or one of the intec temporary pools. Temps have a different code requirement
The pump should have a bonding lug on it and for bonding the water you can buy a water bond that either goes into the skimmer or is a stainless steel nipple with a bonding lug on it. Or you can make your own out of a stainless steel nipple. Just drill a hole in it and bolt a bonding lug to it.
danpik -- If you had looked up the Sharkline Matrix you'd see that it's an aboveground pool and is all resin except the wall. Even single piece pool walls should be bonded in four places in case one of the connections becomes disconnected.
danpik -- If you had looked up the Sharkline Matrix you'd see that it's an aboveground pool and is all resin except the wall. Even single piece pool walls should be bonded in four places in case one of the connections becomes disconnected.
- Jun 22, 2011
- 141
Bama Rambler said:
We just put a Matrix up last weekend and I can tell you that there are no holes for bonding pre-drilled into the wall. You may want to check with Wilbar and see how drilling through your wall will affect warranty. I attached a bonding lug to one of the bolts for connecting the two ends of the wall, that then meets with a Burndy Waterbug for bonding the water, and finally that wire is attached to the bonding lug on the pump. As for connections coming loose, yes that is something that could happen. I've added it to my to-do lists for maintenance and all connections will be checked bi-weekly.
Good luck!!
Bama Rambler said:
Yeah, I know I could have. I didn't because 1, I was sitting in a boring meeting and doing a google search to find that out probably would have been more than I should have been doing and 2, It is a bit of a pet peeve of mine that I should have to research something to answer a question when that info could have easily
been provided. I don't mind doing it sometimes and I understand how easily that it could be overlooked by the OP. No harm, No foul 
I suppose you could use that argument, and I have no objection to bonding with more than one point. But, then to carry it further the pump should have more than one point of attachment too. The reason 4 points of attachment are required for pools with metal structure (not just metal sides) is that there are a lot of connection points between the various parts that can all add up to resistance which could lead to voltage potential differences. If you look at how most above ground pools are bonded, the side steel is usually not even connected. The bottom track and the top track are usually isolated by the paint and the liner clip at the top. Any connection is tenuous at best.Bama Rambler said:
I usually refer the poster to ask their local inspector what they like to see as ultimately it is them they have to satisfy.
Anyway, Hopefully we have helped the OP with the questions they had.
I really appreciate everyones input, it has helped a ton, you would think there would be more instructions on bonding from the pool company but there is none.
bythecreek said:
I agree. For some reason they don't seem to embrace the safety aspect of the instalation like they should. I suppose this is why I have to fix on average 10 pools/year in my area for dumb electrical and bonding instalations
Your best source for info on this subject is NEC article 680.26 (equipotential Bonding for Pools). It primarily speaks to bonding of in-ground pools but the requirements are the same for above ground pools as well. As I mentioned earlier too, your local inspector will also be a help with what your area might require. Just as Bama and I had our different interpretations of the 4-vs-1 attachment point your local inspector may have his own. for example, In my area the inspector does not require a perimiter loop to be 18" out from the pool sides for above ground (I still install one though). Instead, he will allow a 8 - 10' ground rod to be set and hooked to the bond.
Anyway, glad to be of help and good luck with your install
Just found this video from one of the biggest diving board companies. Fast forward to the installation at 11:20. Seems to me this install doesn't meet bonding requirements.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtvBCUxv2hM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtvBCUxv2hM
Pull off the rail cap where the pool seam is, remove the nut from the top seam bolt, put a lug on, re-apply bolt, then run the solid copper back to the the mounting lug on the pump, get it 6-8 inches in the ground en route to the pump, put cap back on.
buddywiser said:
The only conductive parts to that installation that were exposed to the end user are the two bolts that hold the board to the fiberglass stand. Not enough mass to present any type of voltage potential danger
Similar threads
