Pics of where I'm at with my pool

Jul 15, 2012
43
Toulon, Illinois
After all the help I have received from this forum, here are some pictures of where I am with my pool currently. Thank you all for the help and I'm sure I will be asking many more questions.[attachment=0:37cl0wv0]072012103629.jpg[/attachment:37cl0wv0]
 

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I'm waiting for test kit to arrive. I just have a cheapy one from walmart right now. Chlorine is at .5 and PH is 7.8. The local fire dept brought out water for us, we are 8 miles from nearest town. The water had a lot of iron in it. I will be shoking it tomorrow. Trying to see how well the pump and filter will do(monitoring very closely). It is improving from yesterday...seems to just be a slow process. I'm hoping to have it swimable by Sunday or Monday as our temps are going to be up into the high 90's again.
 
Work with ChemGeek or one of the metal-knowledgable posters here. pH has a lot to do with metals. Using the incorrect sequestrant can add other chemicals you do not want in your pool there are only a few recommended brands here. See Pool School for more info.

I have seen several postings where they tie a cotton sock to the return and place paper towels in the skimmer basket to help trap the rusty debris. If you do this, be sure to watch your flow, your pressures and make sure your pump doesn't lose flow. It may need the water flow to keep it cool and running safely.
 

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I'm sorry, but your pool will not be swim-able by Sunday or Monday. It's best to not even think it's possible.

Have you read Pool School a few times? I think it'd be good if you focused on the green swamp information. Brown water and metals aside, you're going to need to do the shocking process for a number of days.

Following the information here will allow for the fastest turnover possible. Promise.
 
If your CL levels are good... that's great

The most important thing when you water is cloudy (other than CL) is to make sure the pump and filter are working 24/7 until the water is clear. No chemical will remove cloudy debris and rusty or red dirt, only the filter. Let you pressures rise to 25% over your clean pressure. If 10 PSI is clean, let it rise to 12 or13 before doing a backwash. In a sand filter, it is helpful to let your filter get "a little dirty" to improve performance. DE can be added but it will require more attention but may make the process faster if you dedicate your time to it. See Pool School for more about this.
 
SadieBailey said:
Thanks everyone. I've read pool school like 20 times and still find myself confused. I'm more of a hands on kinda person. Reading doesnt do much for me.

Ask questions and we'll try to help - maybe with pics.
 
Once you get the test kit in action then you'll start to see some action/reaction and start to understand how the various chemicals impact the water.
I'm the same way, reading is critical but hands on helps me understand much better.
 
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