pool do over

[sublimelyoblivious]

I just dumped, scrubbed & refilled our pop up pool after it went green while on vacation.
I used no cleaners when I dumped the pool, only clear water and a shop vac
I added 4 oz algeacide, and 1 lb shock. (I am now wondering if that was way too much given the size of our pool.)
I did a strip test from hth that evening:
FAC 3/6
PH UNREADABLE
TA 120
CH 400
CYA 30-50

it was a bit foamy, I think from residual algae, as I could not get it perfectly scrubbed.
I ran the the pump with the filter I cleaned in the sink.
Day 2:
Pool clearer, not hazy
I put a 1 1/2 tabs chlorine in floater. Added 8 oz stabilizer.

Filter still running. Later I my MIL brought me her oto kit and new chemicals.
Chlorine was off the chart ( I thought) bright yellow.
Ph was about 7.2 a pale pink.
I decided to pull the floater ou for the night.
I added 2 Tbs of spa sodium bicarbonate 100%. (also from MIL)
That pretty much did nothing.
DAY 3: Today
I was able to buy a few pool supplies but could not find a full test kit. I bought strips for now, because I was worried I overstabilized. I replaced the filter, since to old one was probably full of algae and I vacuumed with a garden hose powered thingy.
My test shows ph is still 7.2, chlorine still high on oto test it shows bright yellow. I didn't learn until today that it turned orange and brown :s
My new strips read:
Total chlorine 10+
FAC 5
PH 7.2. TA 80
CYA 30-50
I added 4 tablespoons of the spa ph +, and replaced the floater.
I closed the openings most of the way.

I did an oto test that was similar in the evening.

Am I supposed to shock because 1/2 my chlorine is combined?
Should I even worry about raising the ph? I would rather let the kids splash it up when its safe.
Did I over shock? Over stabilize?
Is there a decent drop test for less than the $60 for the 2006?
I know its just a pop up but I would like to graduate to a larger pool someday
Thanks for advise, I have already learned some of my mistakes so far, as I began reading only the night of day 2.

My MIL says to take water to the pool store for full tests, but I want a kit.
Only problem is that the mire info I get, the more befuddling it becomes!

 

[zea3]

Hi, welcome to TFP! Neither the OTO test or the strips will tell you how much combined chlorine you have. If you are interested in a FAS-DPD drop based kit look at the TF 50 at tftestkits.net. It is unlikely you have 30-50 CYA since it showed that result the same day you added the shock product. CYA usually takes about a week to register on a test once it has been added to the pool, and tap water does not contain CYA. This is one of the reasons we do not recommend using test strips, as they are not very reliable or consistent with their results. Until you get a better test kit, have the pool store run a water test, but don't buy anything until you post the results here!

 

[sublimelyoblivious]

I went ahead and put my order in for the tf 100. It is pricey, but I figure I need more tests for cya and that perhaps I qualify for troubled water, since last time it went green.
Is there much I can do in the Interim? I considered the tf 50 kit, but the 100 made more sense .especially because I feel like I need to test it everyday until it is worked out.

 

[BadOleRoss]

If you have local pool store you can take your water there and get it tested but some of there results are about as accurate as a test strip. Still, that will give you a place to start until your test kit arrives. If that is not possible, I would assume that your CYA is very low if not zero and add chlorine accordingly. Even if it gets a little high as long as you are below whatever the shock values are you will be safe for swimming.

 

[duraleigh]

Until your kit arrives, I suggest you keep adding some chlorine in your pool (probably a small jug each evening). That'll help you hold the progress you have made and then, once you post valid test results from the kit, we'll have a whole serie of suggestions on how to get your water sparkling.

It is not clear to me how your water looks right now?

 

[supertune]

Hi sublimelyoblivious and welcome to TFP!
You did the right thing by getting the best test kit out there!
Go to pool calculator and figure how many gallons your pool works out to be. Use the cheap color chlorine tester and add chlorine when it drops to 2 or less, then use this chart and until you get your kit use 20 CYA on the chart (target 3ppm) and add bleach or liquid chlorine (same thing) to get to the range in the chart.
This will hold you over from getting green and having a mess to clean again until the TF-100 kit shows up.

http://www.thepoolcalculator.com/

pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock

Once you have your kit, run a complete set of tests and come back here and post them and we can help guide you what to do next.
In the mean time read in Pool School link at the top right of the page to help you get familiar with chemicals and the lingo we speak here.

Chuck

Dang Dave, your fast!

 

[sublimelyoblivious]

I am trying to find a pool store nearby that tests water with drop kits instead of computers :s
I have read and reread the pool school, but as a newbie, I am still a bit confused.
I guess what worries me is that I put a full bag of shock when I think (now) that I only needed a 1/2 a bag. I also started to worry that adding stabilizer and using trichlor tabs might be overkill.
I am currently completely out of liquid bleach! I will buy some soon, but I kinda spent a lot buying cleaning supplies at lowes and purchasing the TF 100 kit, kinda broke my budget
I have a decent supply of chemicals from my Mother in Law.
I have 2 varieties of shock, 3-in-1 tabs, stabilizer, ph +, algecide, calcium, and metal treatment. (we originally tried to set the pool up where we have well water, but currently it is set up in town). I also have both washing soda and borax. I am currently out of bleach and food grade baking soda.
I have test strips and a 2 way test kit, neither seem very straight forward, and I am confused what kind of chlorine OTO even measures. My ph test seems light pink every time.
I also realized that adding the ph + (essentially baking soda) that I mis-measured it as well. The instructions read 2 TBS per 300 gallons. I added a total of 6 TBS in 2 days time.
I am not going to add anything more until I can get a real test done, either my own or a pool store. I am leaving the trichlor in the floater to assure that I have FAC. Other than that, I am pretty confused because I have had to base all of my readings on the dip strip tests, and have now found out they are pretty inaccurate. Not to mention that I read that the stabilizer won't show up for about a week.

I will look at the calculator and other links to try to figure out what size my pool really is. If I can give any more information, I gladly will.

The pool is currently very clear. I vacuumed it yesterday and religiously sweep out all the little gnats and leaves through out the day (I have some time on my hands )

 

[sublimelyoblivious]

My pool is 14' x 39", which equates to 3.25 ft deep, round. The calculator says 3700 gallons. The chart that came from hth says its 2600 gallons. I keep it an inch or so below the fill line because the inflatable ring pools tend to dump if the kids really make waves. Should I change my signature to reflect this difference??

 

[linen]

My guess is that the HTH number is very close...those blow up ring pools are the listed diameter only at the widest point and the water depth is never close to the listed height. The volume might be listed in the manual.

 

[sublimelyoblivious]

Got my TF100 test kit in the mail yesterday afternoon
here are the results:

Free Chlorine: 5.5
Combined Chlorine: .5
Total Chlorine: 6
Total Alkalinity: 160
Ph: 7.2
Calcium Hardness: 150
CYA: >20 ( I could see the dot after using every drop of solution) I performed this test twice, because I was unsure of my results.
My new OTO test read 5+


I would love to understand more about what this means, rather than just dumping "stuff" in there.
In my eyes, I feel that perhaps the CYA test reads low because it has not even been a full week since the addition of stabilizer.
I am using a floater with a Trichlor tab.

Thanks,
Misty

 

[linen]

Got my TF100 test kit in the mail yesterday afternoon

I would love to understand more about what this means, rather than just dumping "stuff" in there.

I am not sure you have to "dump" anything in there, you numbers look pretty good. Cya is the one thing I might start adding. Shoot for 50 ppm in two parts adding it in an old sock and hang it in front of the water return to the pool.

How does your water look?

 

[sublimelyoblivious]

my water looks great. My son says it is "thin" compared to his grandma's which indicated to me that her water is full of "stuff".

Should I wait to add more stabilizer until a full week has passed? I read in pool school and also in this thread that it doesn't show for a week.
Additionally, I am not a full convert to the BBB system yet. As I mentioned, I have a trichlor tab in a floater. I haven't quite figured out if that is a bad thing or not. I just keep reading and reading! It is what I have used for this week. I figured that my CYA would slowly rise to a higher level because of that, and hesitated to add more until I hear you guys say yes, and also, I am a bit surprised no one has told me to stop with the pucks already!

I taught my son to use the vacuum this afternoon. The water looks fine, aside from the fact that every bug in the world keeps committing suicide in our pool and I have to skim them out.
We get partial sun in the mornings, and 5-6 hours of full sun. The weather is hot and humid as always, and not much in the way of rain expected for a long time!

edit: I did buy bleach though, so I am ready to figure out what to do with it now

 

[linen]

Should I wait to add more stabilizer until a full week has passed?

Good point, I guess I would wait 2-3 more days then test again before adding. In addition, If you have only used 1 trichor tab and if it is the typical 3" tab ( 8 ounce), that should add an additional 13 ppm to your 2600 gallon pool...for a total of 36 ppm cya.

Additionally, I am not a full convert to the BBB system yet. As I mentioned, I have a trichlor tab in a floater. I haven't quite figured out if that is a bad thing or not. I just keep reading and reading! It is what I have used for this week. I figured that my CYA would slowly rise to a higher level because of that, and hesitated to add more until I hear you guys say yes, and also, I am a bit surprised no one has told me to stop with the pucks already!

I think you have converted, since you have a proper test kit now, and you recognized what is adding cya to your pool. The BBB method is about testing your pool and then adding the appropriate chemicals to keep it clear...which you are now doing I would not put anymore tabs in for now, but it appears your cya level is low enough that the one you have in is okay. Just remember to watch your ph since trichlor also lowers that.

 

[sublimelyoblivious]

OK. Thank you l so much, that is exactly what I was hoping. I was afraid to do anything more. My last conversion would be using liquid bleach and no tabs at all. But other than that, I feel like you guys are really smart and I have learned a ton on this site! I will check my levels in a few days, and if my chlorine drops I will ask what more I should be doing, but I am interested in using bleach. I can always give my trichlor to my MIL, she has donated so many chemicals to me already, and unless she converts to BBB, she may need them. Her pool is "off". Maybe she will let me help when I learn more? Who knows!
Thanks again.

Is testing with Phenol red and OTO twice a day (morning and night) overkill? or is that what I should be doing?
*I am not sure what I meant by other than that I think you guys are smart....I intended to say that I would be converted other than that AND that you guys seem to know your stuff. Hope that didn't offend anyone!*

 

[linen]

Most bleach users pick morning or evening to test and dose (once a day). If you have high bather load, or something else going on, you may want to test more often.

 

[aa62579]

To try to help you work with what you have, is any of the shock you have Cal-Hypo? If so, since you CH number is on the lower end and you have a vinyl pool, you can use it as a form of chlorine.

Your TA is above the recommended goal, so no need for more baking soda. (Don't worry about your TA though.)

Was your shock di-chlor? If so, 1lb of it would have raised your CYA by 23. 8oz of stabilizer would have added 23 more. How big is your trichlor tab? If 8oz, that would be 13 more CYA and you would be close to 60 ppm CYA which is too much. If your shock was cal-hypo, it would not have added any CYA and you will be fine, maybe even get to use another puck. My recommendation - if your shock was di-chlor, I would remove what was remaining of the puck/tab. If it was cal-hypo, the puck can stay in until it dissolves fully.
Right now your numbers look good. I'd test again tomorrow. I would use the numbers assuming

 

[sublimelyoblivious]

unfortunately the shock was dichlor. Sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione 58.2%
other 41.8%

I am surprised I didn't do more damage by doing what I did. I was a bit naive to think that these little pools were any easier to operate than a larger pool. If anything it may be a little harder because dosing would be divided...which I did not do!

So remove the puck??
I wondered if I should. Especially since I did add a full 8 oz. of stabilizer. And I added it directly to the water (this was before reading any of this website)
I later used the vacuum, and I believe that I vacuumed up a bit of the stabilizer. I also washed my filter.

All these little factors add up, and I think that is how I so easily confuse myself what I should do next.

Water is fine though

 

[linen]

So remove the puck??

I would until we are sure we know where your cya settles out at. Again, test in a 2-3 days (without adding any more) and let's see where you are. For now, I would assume you are around 40 ppm cya and use that for your FC levels ( I get 3-7 ppm FC for a cya of 40 ppm from poolcalculator.com).

 

[aa62579]

Hmm... I'm used to seeing dichlor with a higher %, so I'm not sure about that.

Deferring to others with more experience on this one.

 

[techguy]

Testing twice a day with these little pools is an OK idea in my book, at least until you get ti clean, clear, no floaties and your numbers are stable between the night readings and the same the next morning. You should not lose much CL overnight. Once yuo get things stabilized and moving forward, you will get a feel for it. I think that little sack pool is harder to manage than the big ones as everything you add acts so quickly on the amount of water., precison is much more important ( a cup of bleach in my pool is .3 ppm, in your pool, its enough to move your PPM by 1.0 ) and every error's effect is magnified.

I would stop using pucks, they effect too many other factors and in your pool & it effects them a lot.