How difficult to replace all PVC myself??

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laff66

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Apr 18, 2007
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Plano, TX
Our piping around the heater/pump/filter is absolutely ridiculous with the number of elbows, turns etc. I am sure Im losing pump efficiency due to friction loss, and want to replace it. My question is, can the valves possibly be saved, or is the PVC glue going to make it impossible to reuse them. I'm guessing that in places that its glued in, (such as into the multi backwash valve) I just cut the pipe back a little bit and use a coupler or new elbow?
Finally, I'll try to post a picture or two in the hopes that someone might see something that will cause me trouble (and help me avoid it!)

Not sure if this will work, but here are links to pics of the mess...

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/ ... 030250.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/ ... 030249.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/ ... 030248.jpg
 
Trying to make connections in a tight area where both end points are fixed can be hard, but it's not rocket science. You'll want to play with some pipe and fittings to learn how to measure before assembly so you get things where they need to be when you glue.

Probably half the time I've tried to save a part like a valve, it's either been more trouble than it was worth or I wound up having to replace it anyway. Make sure you get pressure rated couplers, as there are DWV only couplers for schedule 40.
 
laff66 said:
Our piping around the heater/pump/filter is absolutely ridiculous with the number of elbows, turns etc. I am sure Im losing pump efficiency due to friction loss, and want to replace it. My question is, can the valves possibly be saved, or is the PVC glue going to make it impossible to reuse them. I'm guessing that in places that its glued in, (such as into the multi backwash valve) I just cut the pipe back a little bit and use a coupler or new elbow?
Finally, I'll try to post a picture or two in the hopes that someone might see something that will cause me trouble (and help me avoid it!)

Not sure if this will work, but here are links to pics of the mess...

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/ ... 030250.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/ ... 030249.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/ ... 030248.jpg
Click to expand...

Well installing PVC pipe is not hard at all, So the answer to that question would be, It would not be hard for you to do. Where it is glued into a valve, yes you could cut back a ways from the fitting and glue on to there, but by looking at you pics I do not see many places this would be done, What NEW configuration are you planning? I do not see much of a different route you could go, and really not enough to compare to the time it will take. Granted I am not "there to see it but by just going by your pics I do not see a BIG advantage to redoing it.
 
-move the pump to the right, and go straight into it, eliminating 2 bends.
-Coming out of the pump, there are currently 4 elbows, where it seems like there should only be one.
-coming out of the heater there are FIVE elbows! Again, it seems to me (which may mean nothing since I don't know squat about pool plumbing!) that I could come out with a 45, then use a 90 to go to the valve that splits the pool and spa.
-going into the heater, I'm thinking I could eliminate 2 more.

This may not work out like I think, and I don't know how much I'll really gain. But as a firefighter, I know when we're spec'ing out a fire engine design, we lose up to 10 psi for every 90 that ends up in the plumbing. Totally different situation, I realize, but it seems like the same principles would apply. Added to this is the fact that the pump is about 2 feet higher than the pool, which makes it work a little harder, and the fact that I need to add an in-line chlorinator, so I thought I'd do it all at once.

If someone knows the actual physics behind these things, and can tell me that I'm really not going to see much better suction and return, then I'd be happy to not mess with it!

Thanks for reading such a long post!
 
Refer to Rule Number 1

While I am not a pool professional, I have 53 years experience in ignoring Rule #1
and I can assure you I always regret it.

BTW - Rule Number One - If it ain't broke - Don't Fix It!
 
While that is a plumbers nightmare, I can tell you from experience that it's not easy to re-route pool plumbing. The PVC is so large and rigid, that it makes it tough to splice new pieces in. Good luck if you do attempt it.
 
I have replumbed my whole pool, and while I was a complete rookie with 1 yr pool experience, I didn't think it was that difficult. I do think that spa flex is alot easier to work with then rigid pipe.

I think if you plan it all out, you wont have many issues.

Good luck.
 
As a ballpark figure, each 90 adds the same amount of head as a foot of straight pipe, which isn't very much if your pipe is sized correctly. Keep in mind this is not the same as adding a foot of head - it will be much less unless you are using very small pipe which causes huge friction losses. In other words, it's probably a trivial amount of flow you will gain by removing a few 90's.

I agree with MCJP - if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I just had to replumb part of my equipment pad to replace my filter and heater, and even though I have a lot of experience working with PVC for various DIY projects over the years, wouldn't you know it I ended up with 1 connection that didn't glue correctly, and it just happens to be one of the connections on my backwash valve, so I can't just cut it out and redo it. Fortunately it's a small drip, but I'm going to have to find something to seal it eventually.
 
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