Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward customer

hbaker

0
Jun 25, 2012
9
Dallas
My wife and I just spent several 100 degree plus days, turning our green swamp back into a blue oasis, thanks to the BBB method, advice found throughout these forums, and of course our trusty TF100. Part of this transition involved buying four new filter cartridges ($200), for our Hayward C3000 filter. Opening it up, to take the dirty old ones out, I noticed one of the nuts (DEX2400JN) seized up a bit. I soaked it in WD40, and was able to get it off without too much hassle, but it sounded like I was killing a goose. It wasn't too bad, getting it tightened back down, once I cleaned the filter out and put the new filters in. But, when it came time to clean the new filters, the clamp assembly (DEX2400J) popped, and shot the nut, washers and spring off the "dying goose" side of the assembly, flying. The bolt that is t-shaped had torn through the brass nut. Here's the part where I become a newly disgruntled Hayward customer.

I called around, looking for replacement parts for the clamp assembly (DEX2400J), and learned that it was discontinued. Fair enough, although our pool (and filter) is only about twelve years old. Products change, get improved, and fade out. But, surely Hayward would offer some new, improved, and more expensive part to replace the bolt and nut...right? Nope. Okay, well surely Hayward would offer a new, improved and more expensive replacement for the whole clamp assembly, right? Nope. Apparently Hayward is of the mindset that the proper procedure for repairing a broken bolt and nut is to buy a brand new $800 cartridge filter. Well, I disagree. This is beyond ridiculous. If I find the whole clamp assembly online, it looks like it will be around $300, but so far I haven't had any luck even with that.

So now that my rant is out of the way. And, sorry for all that, btw. Does anyone know of a source for replacements for these two parts? Searching the forums, I found this post, where RedHook was in my same position. He posted an image, which I am reposting here, of the exact parts I need to replace.

Bwcgg.jpg


I'm leaving town this evening, for three nights, so our pool will surely start turning green again. When I get back, if I can't find a replacement, I'm going to see if a buddy who is more experienced with welding, can help me come up with a replacement.
 
Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

No help with the parts.

Am I correct that since it is a cartridge filter you do not have a multi-valve that would allow you to keep the water circulating?

I have a Hayward DE filter that looks like a similar clamp. One thing I recommend is when you are putting the clamp back on, to tighten the nut snug (not hard) and then tap around the clamp with a rubber mallet to seat it. Then tighten the nut a bit more and then use the mallet ... repeat. If you just try to use the nut to tighten it down you will put WAY too much stress on the nut and bolt. With the mallet, I hardly have to use any force on the nut to get the spring properly seated.
 
Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

Could you toss in some 3" pucks in a floater and rig some type of recirculation from suction to return bypassing the filter? Worst case when you return and fix things you'll have to drain a little to bring the CYA down but you won't be looking at crazy green...
 
Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

jblizzle said:
Am I correct that since it is a cartridge filter you do not have a multi-valve that would allow you to keep the water circulating?
Yeah, I'm not sure what a multi-valve is, so pretty sure I don't have one.

jblizzle said:
I have a Hayward DE filter that looks like a similar clamp. One thing I recommend is when you are putting the clamp back on, to tighten the nut snug (not hard) and then tap around the clamp with a rubber mallet to seat it. Then tighten the nut a bit more and then use the mallet ... repeat. If you just try to use the nut to tighten it down you will put WAY too much stress on the nut and bolt. With the mallet, I hardly have to use any force on the nut to get the spring properly seated.
Thanks for that advice. Good idea!

UnderWaterVanya said:
Could you toss in some 3" pucks in a floater and rig some type of recirculation from suction to return bypassing the filter? Worst case when you return and fix things you'll have to drain a little to bring the CYA down but you won't be looking at crazy green...
I could stand to raise the CYA a bit, anyhow. Another good suggestion. I had thought of just super shocking it, but I worried about doing that without any recirculation. I'm in a rush to get down to the coast, to watch my son compete in a couple sailing races (I feel too pinky up, when I say "regatta"), so I'm afraid I won't be able to rig anything to bypass the filtration.
 
Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

unfortunatly I can not help you with the parts you need but, I can offer some advice when dealing with sticky, stubborn threaded components. first of all, WD-40 is one of the worst lubricants known to man. The basic makup of this product is about 90% kerosene and 10% light oil. These are rough numbers as there are also perfumes and some other minor ingredients. If you use this as a penetrating oil the best thing to do is after applying it you should add a couple of drops of light motor oil and let that soak in. The oil will lubricate the threads and you won't be killing any geese. By the way, the sound you heard is the clasic sound of metal surfaces galling as they rub against one another. This friction will destroy threads on fasteners and brass threads, like on your fasteners, are very fragile to start.
 
Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

danpik said:
unfortunatly I can not help you with the parts you need but, I can offer some advice when dealing with sticky, stubborn threaded components. first of all, WD-40 is one of the worst lubricants known to man. The basic makup of this product is about 90% kerosene and 10% light oil. These are rough numbers as there are also perfumes and some other minor ingredients. If you use this as a penetrating oil the best thing to do is after applying it you should add a couple of drops of light motor oil and let that soak in. The oil will lubricate the threads and you won't be killing any geese. By the way, the sound you heard is the clasic sound of metal surfaces galling as they rub against one another. This friction will destroy threads on fasteners and brass threads, like on your fasteners, are very fragile to start.

I appreciate the note on WD-40. Yeah, I really wish Hayward didn't make those sleeve nuts out of brass.

We are back in town today, and I still haven't found a proper solution. Got a lot of catching up to do, at work, but I'm going to find some time to call a couple local machine shops, and see if they can make me a replacement. I have absolutely no idea what machine shops charge for this sort of thing, though.
 
Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

Could you post a picture of how it should look installed on the filter/pump? I may be able to come up with a solution if I can see what you are up against.
 
Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

danpik said:
Could you post a picture of how it should look installed on the filter/pump? I may be able to come up with a solution if I can see what you are up against.
I found this image of the assembly together. I am at work, so I can't take a picture of it, but this should give you a good idea of how it functions. The whole assembly brings the lip of the top of the filter snug down, on top of the lip of the base of the filter, with an o-ring between. Here is an exploded diagram of the filter assembly.
 
Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

Richard320 said:
I think I would have gone to some Mom-n-Pop hardware store with the pieces. A long chunk of all-thread and some sort of barrel nut would substitute.
Thanks Richard320, also something I will try! I'm not familiar with "all-thread", but I imagine it's just the threaded portion of a bolt, without a head?
 

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Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

hbaker said:
Richard320 said:
I think I would have gone to some Mom-n-Pop hardware store with the pieces. A long chunk of all-thread and some sort of barrel nut would substitute.
Thanks Richard320, also something I will try! I'm not familiar with "all-thread", but I imagine it's just the threaded portion of a bolt, without a head?

Correct...

All Thread:
all-thread-rods.jpg


Barrell Nut:
product4.jpg
 
Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

Hmmm, yeah that could do the trick. Then just a nut on the end, to tighten it up. Thanks for this! Tonight, I hope to piece this all together, and get my pool back! It really didn't go that green. Just some leaves, and debris that needs to be vacuumed out, and then a few days of super shocking, should get things back in order (I hope). Should I test the water now, or wait until I can get some circulation going?
 
Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

hbaker said:
Hmmm, yeah that could do the trick. Then just a nut on the end, to tighten it up. Thanks for this! Tonight, I hope to piece this all together, and get my pool back! It really didn't go that green. Just some leaves, and debris that needs to be vacuumed out, and then a few days of super shocking, should get things back in order (I hope). Should I test the water now, or wait until I can get some circulation going?

I have no idea - but if it were me I'd add chlorine and brush it - which will mix up the water quite a bit if you do it with any gusto...
 
Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

danpik said:
well, they beat me to it. I would suggest the same thing. If you have a true old time hardware store in town they can probably help you solve this
That is going to be the hard part. There is an ACE True Value store, and that is about the closest thing to an old time hardware store, I can think of, in Dallas.
 
Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

hbaker said:
danpik said:
well, they beat me to it. I would suggest the same thing. If you have a true old time hardware store in town they can probably help you solve this
That is going to be the hard part. There is an ACE True Value store, and that is about the closest thing to an old time hardware store, I can think of, in Dallas.

Home Depot will have those parts - just good luck finding somone who can help you locate them. They will be in the hardware section, in the slide out bins.

They do carry everything from rubber stoppers, to cotter pins, to keyway keys. Just very few people in the store have any idea what is in that asile.

Sears Hardware (if those exist in your area) also has a suprisingly good selection of hardware items.

-dave
 
Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

jblizzle said:
Remember the mallet trick when you go to put this contraption together to help get you snug :goodjob:

What trick is that? Still new to this and I have a similar filter.
 

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