We are filling now!
- Thread starter maryann79
- Start date
Just looked through all your posts to see if you had ordered your recommended test kit yet (see link in my signature)?
Well, have you? Nice to have it on hand to prevent your pool from going green at the start.
Pretty funny posts regarding the utility lines
Well, have you? Nice to have it on hand to prevent your pool from going green at the start.
Pretty funny posts regarding the utility lines
Jason, I have the Taylor K2005. I think I should've gotten the 2006? What am I missing from this kit that I should get? Thanks!
Good start ... just best to add the FAS-DPD chlorine test: http://tftestkits.net/FAS-DPD-Chlorine- ... t-p47.html
You then will have the equivalent of the K-2006.
You then will have the equivalent of the K-2006.
I tested our tap water the other night. Here's what I got:
FC--less than .5
TC--3
CC--3
Ph-8
TA--80
CH--80
I hope I did it right. Do these readings make sense for tap water?
Right now we have 10.25" water in the pool. Will have to wait awhile for a sample from it.
FC--less than .5
TC--3
CC--3
Ph-8
TA--80
CH--80
I hope I did it right. Do these readings make sense for tap water?
Right now we have 10.25" water in the pool. Will have to wait awhile for a sample from it.
I assume it is not a private well.
Tap water can be all over the place ... luckily yours looks pretty nice with the low TA and CH. They must use chlormines in stead of chlorine to treat the water and that is why the CC is showing up (unless you got the FC and CC reversed?)
You will just want to lower the pH with acid and get some stabilizer and chlorine in the pool.
In fact, if you happen to have tablets, you could be floating them now to start adding CYA and FC ... but don't buy them if you do not have them already. Stick with separate CYA and liquid chlorine as it is easier to control.
Tap water can be all over the place ... luckily yours looks pretty nice with the low TA and CH. They must use chlormines in stead of chlorine to treat the water and that is why the CC is showing up (unless you got the FC and CC reversed?)
You will just want to lower the pH with acid and get some stabilizer and chlorine in the pool.
In fact, if you happen to have tablets, you could be floating them now to start adding CYA and FC ... but don't buy them if you do not have them already. Stick with separate CYA and liquid chlorine as it is easier to control.
I could have reversed something. I wondered about the CC also. It's not well water.
We bought liquid 6% bleach last night. Will have to grab some CYA & acid tonight or early a.m. We had a previous Intex 10' round pool, and I have some leftover chemicals from the earlier days -- I'd say this stuff is 2-3 years old. Specifically I have some Ph Down. Is that still good, or should I start fresh?
We bought liquid 6% bleach last night. Will have to grab some CYA & acid tonight or early a.m. We had a previous Intex 10' round pool, and I have some leftover chemicals from the earlier days -- I'd say this stuff is 2-3 years old. Specifically I have some Ph Down. Is that still good, or should I start fresh?
The pH down should still be fine if it stayed dry ... can certainly use that to start with instead of the muriatic acid.
Describe how you did the FAS-DPD test to see if you did it correctly. Also, this has more info about all the tests for reference:
extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html
Describe how you did the FAS-DPD test to see if you did it correctly. Also, this has more info about all the tests for reference:
extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html
Oops 
You would think I would remember a few posts ago that you did not have the FAS-DPD.
I am not sure how your FC vs CC vs TC test works then.
You would think I would remember a few posts ago that you did not have the FAS-DPD.
I am not sure how your FC vs CC vs TC test works then.
OK, we are now about 16" deep. I think at this rate we're looking at this time tomorrow night. I do have a floating puck holder, and 4 pucks. Should I go ahead and drop it in now? (As in, is water deep enough; I don't want to damage anything). Weather is crazy hot; supposed to hit 107 tomorrow, and there'll be no pump starting until tomorrow night. Haven't taken a water test, but based on my tap water test a couple days ago I'm thinking the pucks wouldn't hurt now. ??
As long as the floater keeps moving around I think you should be fine.
Start a log and write down EVERYTHING you add to the pool. Keep track of the # of pucks. Each puck adds ~3ppm FC and ~2ppm CYA ... if you are going to use pucks for awhile, you need to keep track how much CYA you are adding.
Also note that the pucks are acidic, so they should help to lower your pH some too.
Realize that this is not the typical way this site recommends to start a pool, though.
Start a log and write down EVERYTHING you add to the pool. Keep track of the # of pucks. Each puck adds ~3ppm FC and ~2ppm CYA ... if you are going to use pucks for awhile, you need to keep track how much CYA you are adding.
Also note that the pucks are acidic, so they should help to lower your pH some too.
Realize that this is not the typical way this site recommends to start a pool, though.
Thanks. Maybe I can go stir it up as much as I can. This may be silly, but I was never a puck user -- do I put more than 1 in the dispenser at a time?
I hope you did not buy them for this purpose.
You can put more than 1, either way I would keep the dial thing pretty closed so it is slowly added.
I think you would be best served if when you got the pool full and running to add about 30ppm of stabilizer (to protect the FC) and then not use the pucks very long and switch to bleach when the CYA is approaching 40-50ppm depending on your pool's sun exposure.
You can put more than 1, either way I would keep the dial thing pretty closed so it is slowly added.
I think you would be best served if when you got the pool full and running to add about 30ppm of stabilizer (to protect the FC) and then not use the pucks very long and switch to bleach when the CYA is approaching 40-50ppm depending on your pool's sun exposure.
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