I have read that Bioguard Backup is quite effective in taking out these bugs in addition to proper chlorination. I cannot find anyone local that sells it, but many sell other 40% - 60% algaecides. I have read that Bioguard Backup is 50%. In any case, does it have to be 50% or would the 40% algaecide do the job? Does it have to be Bioguard?
Algaecide and Water Boatman and Backswimmers
- Thread starter jonmar
- Start date
Adequate chlorine will eliminate bugs in most every pool. I have never heard that algaecide has any affect. I wouldn't consider it.
- Apr 8, 2007
- 1,616
- Pool Size
- 17450
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Give the pool a good shock, the bugs thrive on algae, even low levels. Eliminate algae
Shocked and did a stake out tonight with my partner Corona. No bugs. The reason I had asked about the algaecide was that I had read about some success using bioguard backup.NWMNMom said:
In another thread I discussed my heater leaking water and the heat exchanger blowing. I read over sanitization can cause HE failures. Now I am worried about shocking the pool to frequently and keeping my CL level higher than 1-3 ppm. Am I wrong?
Where are you reading this? Sorry if I sound a bit arrogant but TFP is THE source for residential pool management and we do our best to keep these "urban legend" bits and pieces of info off the forum.
Certainly, concentrated chlorine is very aggressive towards metal but in the very, very dilute quantities you work with in your pool it is not a factor.
30ppm FC is equivalent (without the added buffering effect of CYA) to .00003% chlorine.
Certainly, concentrated chlorine is very aggressive towards metal but in the very, very dilute quantities you work with in your pool it is not a factor.
30ppm FC is equivalent (without the added buffering effect of CYA) to .00003% chlorine.
duraleigh said:
I had read it online and Hayward told me. They would not commit to what level they considered high, but that simply sanitizer damage is a major cause of HE damage. He also suggested that my salt cell could be dumping undiluted chlorine into the heater. Whatever. I know the heater is fried after three years and I've never had low PH, shocked twice per month and checked my levels twice a week. I suspect they don't like giving away $700 parts.
That's a lot of shocking! Were you shocking based on your CYA level? If not, you could have been shocking way too high and that contributed to the heater damage. Also if your swg is before your heater, that's certainly a problem.jonmar said:
duraleigh said:
The cell is installed just after the heater. The Hayward guy said the chlorine could run back from the cell into the HE.
Whatever the case, the leak is getting worse, I don't have a bypass and the HE is on 'backorder' I think I'm just gonna get a new heater. I'm worried the whole thing lets go and my pool drains itself at the side of my house through a hole in the HE.
FYI. Bioguard Backup is 40% Alkyl dimethylbenzylammonium chloride (ADBAC) which is a standard linear quat algaecide. The main problem with such algaecides is that they can foam. Polyquat 60 is a better algaecide to use as it is non-foaming. However, as was noted above, chlorine alone will keep away algae. As for water boatman and backswimmers, several posters have noted that higher chlorine levels (closer to 15% of the CYA level) keep them away, but such levels are at the high end of the recommended normal range (the minimum in manually dosed pools is 7.5% of the CYA level -- see the Chlorine / CYA Chart).
So now I'm confused. duraleigh indicated that the amount of CL used for shocking was insignificant. Then bama rambler indicates that too much CL could be the culprit. I do try to shock according to my cya levels. I aim for 25 ppm and my cya is 50. We have a lot of usage, lots of kids in the pool, tons of direct sunlight. I didn't think shocking every other Sunday night in heavy usage was a lot.
Wouldn't that mean that anyone that ever had a green pool full of algae could kiss their heater good bye due to all the required shocking needed to clear the pool?
Wouldn't that mean that anyone that ever had a green pool full of algae could kiss their heater good bye due to all the required shocking needed to clear the pool?
No, I'm pretty sure he meant only if you weren't paying attention to your CYA levels.
[/quote:3c96l6tu]duraleigh said:
Thanks. Do you think there is any worry that the HE 'lets go' and water starts gushing?