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Thread: Another conversion - Finally done !!!

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    Another conversion - Finally done !!!

    first post - other forums I belong to get upset with repeats of previous threads, but I guess in this case, each conversion is unique. Background

    - bought house in 2004, pool/spa came with the place
    - we bought the Baqa-hype, including the "automatic dispensing" AD system. What an under-engineering piece of junk that adventure was (I think they are secretly owned by Disney - they both separate you from your money very effectively)
    - first year (2004) - no problemo
    - second year (2005) - not too bad, but the trend begins
    - third year (2006) - mid-summer I get this weird "pink" stuff (NOW I know what that was) - Shock and sanitize the bejesus out of the pool. Never really cleared up and pool was essentially unswimmable all summer
    - fourth year (2007) - I was largely out of town, didn't get used much, but the pool generally suffered from a "funk".

    All along - test strips look good, add sanitizer when necessary, shock when necessary. I've had enough.

    soooooo

    I am the owner of a recently arrived TF-100 test kit, read all about conversions, and am armed and ready to go. I'm an engineer, so the chemistry piece doesn't scare me (although I took chemistry sometime back in the pre-jurrassic era). I have purchased 30X1 gal jugs of 10% "pool chlorine" from Lowes and am ready for the fun to begin. I've got an old set of filters in place (they are the sacrificial first to go) and another set in the ready. I can take apart my filter, clean the cartridges in <1 hour.

    first set of readings
    pH - 7.8
    chlorine = zero (duh)
    TA = 200opps - actually was 120 - too many other numbers running around my brain
    CH = ?? (I had a problem with this, I'm assuming the baquacrud interferres with the test. Tap water worked fine)
    CYA = no test (duh)
    Temp = 70F

    I dumped in 2X1 gal jugs of the bleach tonite. The pool turned a really cool shade of yellow.

    I figure I'll test in the morning, dump in 2 more gal before work. I'll then clean the filters tomorrow night; continue to repeat the process until I've exorcised the "goo" from my pool.

    I assume I've got some time to worry about the CH and CYA.

    I'll probably post more questions once I get cleared up. We get A LOT of sunshine here in Central CA and I'm guessing that will pose special issues for CYA/CL levels.

    PS - I'd love to post some pictures, but I can't figure out how to get them put in at the right size.
    Mark A. Wolf
    vocation = engineer
    avocation = bass trombone

    homebrewing, swimming pool chemistry - all my home science experiments
    ++++++++++++++
    21000 gal gunite IG pool/spa; Hayward Swimclear 3020 cartridge filter, Hayward Northstar pumps (one filter, one waterfall), heater (not sure size), Hayward Navigator

  2. Back To Top    #2

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    What is the volume of your pool? I think 2 gallons are probably not enough. You really want to shock it in the beginning stage and the baqua will eat up two gallons really fast.
    6000 gal inground fiberglass
    1.5hp pump / sand filter
    Liquidator

  3. Back To Top    #3
    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Welcome to FTP!

    keithw is correct. In a 21,000 gallon pool you need just over 3 gallons of 10% chlorinating liquid to bring the FC level up to 15 from 0.

    During the first stage you can add chlorine frequently, probably every hour or so. Just test the water first and then add enough chlorine to bring the FC level back up to 15. Right at first it doesn't really matter what time of day you do that, but after a couple of cycles, when FC isn't going back to zero after an hour, it becomes better to add the chlorine in the evening.

    Don't add any CYA yet, it will slow the process down.

    At some point when the FC level is very low, adjust the PH to between 7.2 and 7.4. PH tests when FC is high are not as reliable.

    Good Luck!
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  4. Back To Top    #4
    Hi, and welcome to TFP!

    First, take a look a Jason's calculator, in my sig. It will help you dose your pool with just the right amount of bleach (pool chlorine, same thing).

    Second, you want to get your FC to 15 and keep it there as best you can. Once or twice a day will eventually get rid of the baqua, but it will be slow-going. Is there anyone to test and add bleach during the day? The more often you can test and add bleach, the faster your conversion will be over!

    For your pool, you need about 3 gallons of 10% to get you from 0 to 15ppm. Plus, at first, like keithw said, the baqua eats it up SUPER fast! So within a few minutes, your FC would have essentially been 0.

    Clean your filters, but wait until your pressure goes up the recommended amount. It may be nightly, but maybe not, depending on your cartridge size, etc.

    We will worry about balancing your water after the conversion is done. However, you want to nudge your pH down to about 7.2 as the chlorine is more effective in the lower pH range. Test for pH before dosing with bleach, as high FC levels will interfere with the pH test.

    Feel free to post as many questions as you need... sometimes, reading about other experiences is not the same as having your personal questions answered, and we LOVE answering questions!!

    ETA Jason, great minds MUST think alike, as we were posting at the same time! (Bet that sends chills down your mane, to be compared to the mermaid's pea-brain!!! 8) )

    8000 gallon 20' x 48" round vinyl frame pool, 12" sand filter (don't have the specs on the pump), TF100 test kit
    Handy Links: PoolMath, TF-100 Test Kit, Pool School, CYA-Chlorine Chart
    "Shock" is a process, not a product!

  5. Back To Top    #5
    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Hi Z and welcome to TFP

    You are absolutely right. Each conversion is unique and we are happy that you chose to share it with us!

    Most folks here use PhotoBucket. Can't wait 'til you get those pix loaded 8)
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  6. Back To Top    #6

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    I checked this AM; pH closer to 8.0 - I've got some acid and will work on getting the pH down; Cl still zero (duh). I'm just using the two part Taylor pH/Cl test for now. Added two more gal and will do so again at lunch time. Both of us work so we'll just have to do the best we can.

    conversation this morning

    wife - MY, the pool is certainly an interesting color (sarcasam doesn't translate well on computer)
    me - at least we were warned

    the water color best resembles something we dealt with when our kids were infants (parents will certainly understand.....)
    Mark A. Wolf
    vocation = engineer
    avocation = bass trombone

    homebrewing, swimming pool chemistry - all my home science experiments
    ++++++++++++++
    21000 gal gunite IG pool/spa; Hayward Swimclear 3020 cartridge filter, Hayward Northstar pumps (one filter, one waterfall), heater (not sure size), Hayward Navigator

  7. Back To Top    #7

    In the Industry
    duraleigh's Avatar
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    zin,

    chlorine, chlorine, chlorine. Almost everyone starting the conversion does not use enough chlorine.

    If you're at zero, 3 gallons is what you need...then, bring it right back up to 15ppm by adding what you need again.

    That chlorine demand will taper off soon but you'll really help yourself if you keep your FC up high constantly.

    BTW, welcome to the forum. Baq conversions are some of the most rewarding threads on the forum. We all look forward to that "My pool is sparkling" post which will be coming soon.!!
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

  8. Back To Top    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by zinengineer

    the water color best resembles something we dealt with when our kids were infants (parents will certainly understand.....)
    Rusty Pea Soup is my description, but EVERYONE will get the gist!!

    8000 gallon 20' x 48" round vinyl frame pool, 12" sand filter (don't have the specs on the pump), TF100 test kit
    Handy Links: PoolMath, TF-100 Test Kit, Pool School, CYA-Chlorine Chart
    "Shock" is a process, not a product!

  9. Back To Top    #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Mermaid Queen
    Quote Originally Posted by zinengineer

    the water color best resembles something we dealt with when our kids were infants (parents will certainly understand.....)
    Rusty Pea Soup is my description, but EVERYONE will get the gist!!
    came home for lunch, my wife said the pool looks like "baby $#%%" - I'm trying to be a little more polite, but she's absolutely correct.

    pH = 8.0 (I'll work on that later)
    Cl = might be between 0.5 and 1.0 - maybe my imagination but the water in the test block had a yellow tint to it. I'll do the full test tonite.

    added 4X1 gal of my 10% solution.

    this is more fun than playing with my chemistry set in the basement when I was a kid
    Mark A. Wolf
    vocation = engineer
    avocation = bass trombone

    homebrewing, swimming pool chemistry - all my home science experiments
    ++++++++++++++
    21000 gal gunite IG pool/spa; Hayward Swimclear 3020 cartridge filter, Hayward Northstar pumps (one filter, one waterfall), heater (not sure size), Hayward Navigator

  10. Back To Top    #10

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    evening report....

    added about 1/2 gal of 29% muriatic acid - dropped pH to 7.5 (that's a good thing I believe)
    test block showed 2 Cl

    the drop test showed 3.5 FC
    the drop test still has issues on CC - I'm going to continue to believe there is some interferrence with the baquagoooooo

    the mere fact that I've now got chlorine showing up leads me to believe I'm headed in the right direction.

    I'm going to have to continue with 4 gal in the AM, 4 gal at lunch, and 4 in the evening

    I've got a photobucket account so I'll try to attach link to pictures (guest password is "guest1")

    Mark's pool conversion 2008

    (as an added benefit - you can see the other misc stuff in the collection).....
    Mark A. Wolf
    vocation = engineer
    avocation = bass trombone

    homebrewing, swimming pool chemistry - all my home science experiments
    ++++++++++++++
    21000 gal gunite IG pool/spa; Hayward Swimclear 3020 cartridge filter, Hayward Northstar pumps (one filter, one waterfall), heater (not sure size), Hayward Navigator

  11. Back To Top    #11
    7.5 is fine... a little lower would be better (7.2)

    Keep smacking it with the bleach, and you will get there!

    I could not view your album... probably something on my end...

    8000 gallon 20' x 48" round vinyl frame pool, 12" sand filter (don't have the specs on the pump), TF100 test kit
    Handy Links: PoolMath, TF-100 Test Kit, Pool School, CYA-Chlorine Chart
    "Shock" is a process, not a product!

  12. Back To Top    #12
    Casey's Avatar
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    I couldn't view it either.

    Keep us posted!
    I'd bet you my bikini you'll never get TFP water from a pool store!

    24' Sharkline Venture De Filter

  13. Back To Top    #13
    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Oh boy, me neither Do we need a password?

    Wanna' see your pictures!
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  14. Back To Top    #14

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    May 1 update (day two)

    tested this evening
    pH = 7.5
    FC = 12 (drop test)
    CC = ?? - still having issues with this one
    TA = 120 (I didn't really expect that to change, but I just wanted to test anyway)

    I've added a total of 32 gal of 10% soln so far, I'll retest in the AM and continue to add.

    I pulled out my sacrificial set of filters this afternoon and replaced them with a new(er) set I had in reserve. They had MASSIVE amounts of rust colored sludge (I'll take pictures and post those as well). Also, the inside of the filter housing had the sludge as well as the piping on the suction of the pump. I know I can clean out the filter housing, but will this stuff eventually dissolve from the inside of the piping?

    The water seems to be a little more "milky" and less "rust" colored. Also, when I add the bleach, I don't see the reaction (i.e. sludge generation) like I did in the beginning. I'm believing this indicates I'm headed in the right direction.

    The password for guest access to my photobucket account is "enter1". I'll also try to post pictures here

    Day 2

    Day 1

    Prior to conversion
    Mark A. Wolf
    vocation = engineer
    avocation = bass trombone

    homebrewing, swimming pool chemistry - all my home science experiments
    ++++++++++++++
    21000 gal gunite IG pool/spa; Hayward Swimclear 3020 cartridge filter, Hayward Northstar pumps (one filter, one waterfall), heater (not sure size), Hayward Navigator

  15. Back To Top    #15
    Casey's Avatar
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    That water looks like how my DH likes his coffee.

    I think he needs a refill.

    Keep the pics coming and keep hitting it with bleach!
    I'd bet you my bikini you'll never get TFP water from a pool store!

    24' Sharkline Venture De Filter

  16. Back To Top    #16
    You are getting there! looking good!

    You will need to clean your filter and replace your cartridges when the conversion is complete, but I am not sure about the plumbing... I have never heard of anyone doing anything with it...

    keep up the good work!

    8000 gallon 20' x 48" round vinyl frame pool, 12" sand filter (don't have the specs on the pump), TF100 test kit
    Handy Links: PoolMath, TF-100 Test Kit, Pool School, CYA-Chlorine Chart
    "Shock" is a process, not a product!

  17. Back To Top    #17

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    I've got a new set of cartridges on order. The set I just took out is going in the trash (after I get a picture) and I'll keep cleaning the set in right now.

    This morning

    pH = 7.2 - I think I've just about hit the target others were directing me to
    FC = 3.5

    Added 4X1 gal of 10% solution (I'm now up to 36 gal total)

    I'm like a zen master - I keep telling my wife to be patient and it will work out.

    We can now see the top step of the spa. Water now has a green tint to it.
    Mark A. Wolf
    vocation = engineer
    avocation = bass trombone

    homebrewing, swimming pool chemistry - all my home science experiments
    ++++++++++++++
    21000 gal gunite IG pool/spa; Hayward Swimclear 3020 cartridge filter, Hayward Northstar pumps (one filter, one waterfall), heater (not sure size), Hayward Navigator

  18. Back To Top    #18
    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Good work zen master 8)

    From (Casey's) coffee color to green tint sounds great!

    Water is ugly, but pool is beautiful!

    Can't wait to see the final product!
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  19. Back To Top    #19

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    lunchtime update....

    FC = 2.5 - added another 4X1 gal of 10% solution. I'm up to either 36 or 40 (have to count when I get home)

    pool water is now a nice shade of emerald green....BUT I can see the steps and bottom of the spa and the top two steps of the pool. I'll brush down the side, clean the filter tonight and continue with the CL.

    I took pictures of the filters I'll post later. I've also got quite a collection of 1gal jugs which I've got to get rid of. Unfortunately our community has a pathetic recycling program and they make it way too hard to keep these things out of the trash. I'll be looking long term for a way to find a source of refillable jugs (I have no problem paying a deposit and returning to get refills).
    Mark A. Wolf
    vocation = engineer
    avocation = bass trombone

    homebrewing, swimming pool chemistry - all my home science experiments
    ++++++++++++++
    21000 gal gunite IG pool/spa; Hayward Swimclear 3020 cartridge filter, Hayward Northstar pumps (one filter, one waterfall), heater (not sure size), Hayward Navigator

  20. Back To Top    #20

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    Saturday update

    we went through the emerald green phase - the color is now something I'd describe best as my favorite Pale Ale color (think Bass Pale Ale), nice copper color. I doubt we have high iron in our water and I'm not sure I could test for it anyway.

    the good news is, the water is very clear, we can see the bottom of both the pool and spa. I've brushed everything down, don't get much stuff anymore. I've changed out filters (pictures below) and already cleaned the "newer" set once. I've got a new set on the way but I'm not putting them in until I'm completely through this stuff.

    FC has continued to bounce between 2.5 and 20, although it is taking longer to drop than before. The pH has also crept back up to 7.5 so I added more acid and will check results later.

    I'm going to assume at this point that this nice red color is simply dissolved residual Baquagoo solids and continued use of liquid Chlorine will essentially "bleach" the water back to clear?

    I'm up to 60 gal of 10% solution. Have to make another run to Lowe's tomorrow. I'll give another update tomorrow.

    <Photobucket taking too long - I'll post pictures later>
    Mark A. Wolf
    vocation = engineer
    avocation = bass trombone

    homebrewing, swimming pool chemistry - all my home science experiments
    ++++++++++++++
    21000 gal gunite IG pool/spa; Hayward Swimclear 3020 cartridge filter, Hayward Northstar pumps (one filter, one waterfall), heater (not sure size), Hayward Navigator

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