K2006 Confusion with CYA test

[jaywdetroit]

Hi- The instructions on my K2006 test kit don't seem to match up with the markings on my Test vile. I'm confused. Can someone straighten me out?

It says to fill to the 7ml mark. There is a 4.5 and a 9 mark. 9 is the top mark. It says to add to the 14 mark.

?????

Thanks for your help. -jay

 

[Richard320]

There should be a bottle with a cap on it marked 7 & 14.

But if you got a smaller bottle, it's okay. As long as pool water and reagent are 50-50 and you have enough volume to fill the view tube, you're fine.

 

[Durk]

Not what you asked, but....

I have a K-2006. I opted to ditch the smaller CYA test set up it has and switch to the larger one used in the TFT-100 kit . You just need the view tube (also made by Taylor) and the bottle from TFT and the same reagent you have in the K-2006. It uses twice the volume of reagent and pool water and the larger tube goes down to 20. It is much easier to read and I have to believe it is more accurate. I have much more confidence in the results.

 

[Starplex]

Use the small bottle with white cap. Fill bottle with pool water to the 7mL mark. Add reagent to the bottle till you hit the 14mL mark. Cap the bottle and shake for 30 seconds. Fill the CYA test tube from the bottle you just shook, while looking at the black dot in the bottom. When the black dot is almost not visible stop and read the numbers on the tube to get CYA reading. Continue to fill until black dot cannot be seen. This should be your CYA number.

 

[jaywdetroit]

Thanks for your responses. I missed the whole 'little separate vile' thing. So I tested my CYA and it's 25-30 ppm. I tested twice to be sure.
I have a vinyl pool with SWG. The timing of my installer just dropping by was perfect. In two days my pool has gone from crystal clear and me bragging to everyone (including this forum) how I haven't had to do anything to it in a year, to an emerging cloud with high pH.

Steps I've taken: I've added 4-5 lbs of what I thought was dry acid, but apparently isn't. BioGuard Lo N Slo pH and alkalinity decreaser.
I shocked the pool with the SWG.
Yesterday, pH was 8.0 and Total Chlorine was 2. I did not have my K2006 test kit until late in the day.
Today, pH is 7.6 Free Chlorine is 5. TA=140, CH=150/160 CYA=25-30

Pool store says don't add more than 2 lbs of lo N slo per day. Should I add more to bring down TA?

Edit: For the record, the cloudiness could be a result of the fact that we've had 2 lengthy, serious downpours over the past 2 days, which aside from adding 2 inches of water to my pool, also lured 25-30 frogs into the pool each day.

 

[Richard320]

TA will come down by itself if you maintain pH. If you have the dry acid, use it. (Lo n Slo is dry acid - Sodium Bisulfate.) Otherwise, just buy muriatic acid, it's probably cheaper.

I'd worry more about the low CYA level for a SWG pool. And the cloudiness. And that you'll burn out your SWG using it to shock. Bleach will get it to shock level as fast as you can pour.

 

[jaywdetroit]

Any recommendations for raising CYA? Will shocking the pool take care of the Cloudiness?

 

[Richard320]

Any recommendations for raising CYA? Will shocking the pool take care of the Cloudiness?

Well.... now that you have the K-2006, you ought to use the FAS-DPD test. That will tell you if you need the shock process or not.

10 ml water, a scoop of R-0870 powder, count drops of R-0871 until it goes clear, add five drops of R-003. It may turn pink again. Add more R-0 871, counting drops. If it took more than one to clear the water the second time, you need to run the shock process.

As for adding CYA... the most precise way is to buy stabilizer and add it. But, if you need to run the shock process, you could buy diclor powder, which will add both chlorine and CYA. And easier to carry than jugs.

 

[jaywdetroit]

Actually, i didn't run the shock process until I determined that my FC was 2, with the new kit. Apparently my CC was zero.