CYA less than recommended after drain/refill : what now?

Jun 3, 2012
56
Folsom, CA
Experts, I am back after draining and refilling my pool to lower the CYA.

Here is a link to the last thread where I was advised to drain & refill again. Last thread

So, Yesterday, I finally finished draining and refilling the pool. Ran the tests and here are my results (before any chemical addition):

pH - 7.6
Free chlorine - 2 ppm
Combined chlorine - Absent (however, if I let the solution sit for a while, around 2-4 minutes, the solution turned slightly pink. With 1-drop, I was able to change the solution to colorless. So, is CC absent or is it 1 ppm)?
Total Alkalinity - 50 ppm
Cyanuric Acid - Less than 30 ppm (if I have to guess, it was about 20 ppm)
Calcium hardness - 90 ppm as Calcium carbonate

Since, FC was 2 ppm, I added approximately 62 oz of 6% bleach (based on pool calculator) to bring FC to 5 ppm. After 40 minutes, when I tested, FC was at 5.5 ppm, so I am guessing my pool is close to 9500 Gallons.

I also did OCLT. This morning (at 6 AM, before sun hitting the pool), FC was 4.5 ppm (night time FC was 5.5 ppm). Once again, CC was absent, however, after 2-4 minutes, the solution turned slightly pink.

Where do I go from here? I know that I need to raise CYA (to 30-50), total alkalinity and Calcium hardness. I dont have any chemicals, except liquid bleach. I am thinking that I should go with BBB method (if feasible). Can someone hold the hand of this totalnoob and guide me.

Thanks a lot.

-Totalnoob
 
It is normal for the CC test to turn pink after sitting. All that matters is what happens when you run the test, ignore what it does later.

It sounds like you have a handle on what to do. Do you have a specific question? You need stabilizer for CYA and baking soda to raise TA. Is your pool plaster? You didn't say. If not, you don't need to worry about CH.
 
It doesn't seem like you need to shock...so add Baking soda to raise your TA to about 80ppm. I would also bring CYA levels up to 40ppm...slowly...don't overadd! It will take a cpl of weeks to slowly adjust it so you don't overshoot your goal. And if your pool is plaster then you need to up your calcium hardness. you can either add separate chemicals to do all of this for you. OR if you already have Cal Hypo you can maintain FC levels while adding Calcium OR if you already have pucks you can use those to maintain FC and add CYA. Pick your poison...But it seems like you're on the right track.
Just watch your pH while you're doing all of this and if at any point it should drift higher then add muriatic acid according to the pool calculator...which you should bookmark btw!
First step (besides maintaining FC) is to adjust your TA higher with baking soda!!!! :goodjob:
 
Thanks for the replies.

Sorry, I dont know if my pool is plaster or not. Here are a couple of photos that I posted in my first thread. May be someone can tell if it is plaster or something else.

Photos

As I mentioned earlier, I dont have any chemicals (except liquid bleach), need to buy everything. I will buy baking soda to raise TA.

Where should I buy cyanuric acid? Is Leslie's the best bet or there are other (cheaper) alternatives?

Any recommendations on increasing the CH? Recommended pool chemicals mention that "Calcium hardness can be raised with calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate". Again, where should I buy it??

Also, Recommended pool chemicals mention that "Baking soda and Calcium products can be added by spreading it across the surface of the deep end of the pool". Can both of these should be added at the same time? Should I run the pump after adding these? How long should I wait to test after adding these?

Thanks once again.
 
For inground, you only choice are liner (rubber,smooth), fiberglass (smooth), plaster (pretty smooth, but some roughness), pebble (bumpy). From the color if looks like pebble which is treated the same as plaster as far as recommended levels.

CYA can be found at Walmart.
CH in the winter can be found for deicing sidewalks, but now you may have to go to the pool store.

You should always be running the pump when adding chemicals. I can not think why the baking soda and calcium could not be added at the same time. Just brush the stuff around.
 
Calcium is relatively inexpensive at Leslie's. Go to pool calculator and figure out how much you need BEFORE you go, so you don't let them oversell you. Buy enough to bring your levels to around 250-300ppm give or take. CYA is cheaper at Walmart. Again, buy a small amount because once you add, odds are you won't need to add again anytime soon (this season). Go slow with both Calcium and CYA because the ONLY way to reduce either of these levels once you add them is to DRAIN THE POOL! Slow and steady wins the race! The powder CYA can be added to pantyhose or a sock and hung in front of a return for slow, but constant dispersal. Give the CYA a week or so before you test the levels...so add a bit, wait a week and test. Keep this method going until you get to your desired CYA level. You can broadcast the Calcium over the deep end of the pool, but brush afterwards so it dissolves and mixes well.

All of the above can be done at the same time. The only warnings i've even been given is NEVER add water to acid (always acid to water) and never combine different types of chlorine...ie: cal hypo with tri chlor tabs (EXPLOSIVE) do NOT store these types of chlorine with each other. Other than that, I don't think there's a danger. If anyone knows of any other warnings, PLEASE POST...I'd like to know them as well!!!
 
csigirl said:
All of the above can be done at the same time. The only warnings i've even been given is NEVER add water to acid (always acid to water) and never combine different types of chlorine...ie: cal hypo with tri chlor tabs (EXPLOSIVE) do NOT store these types of chlorine with each other. Other than that, I don't think there's a danger. If anyone knows of any other warnings, PLEASE POST...I'd like to know them as well!!!

Don't mix chlorine and acid either.
 

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