FC level dropping

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J

jpb1972

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Jun 30, 2012
8
Need help, I think. My FC level seems to be dropping too fast. FC was at 4.6 around noon time, just checked it again 6 hours later and it was 3.4.

Pool water is sparkling clear. No visible issues at all.

I got suckered into starting my pool on Pristine Blue, but quickly changed my mind on that once I did some research, so I made the switch to chlorine, by way of trichlor pucks, and then I switched again to the BBB method. I may still have some copper in the pool from the pristine blue.

I run my filter for 5 hours in the AM, and 5 hours in the PM on a timer.

CC - under 1 ppm (test only produced a very faint, faint, pink tint, so im thinking its just over 0 but under 1)
TA - 120
PH - 7.4
CYA - 50
Above ground pool - 24' x 54" (1 month old)

Thanks in advance for any help on this.
 
Sounds like normal loss. 2 or 3 ppm per day is pretty common, and the majority of your loss is going to be lost during the sunniest part of the day.
 
Ok. It sounds like this is normal, I thought I read that a 1ppm loss per day was normal and thats why I am concerned. It seems like I will be going through a lot of bleach to keep my FC level up, Im starting to think that the trichlor pucks would be much easier and maybe cost less?
 
maybe .... Until your CYA got too high for the amount of FC the tablets add. Your pool then turns green and you have to drain part of your pool to lower the CYA.

You are already at the top of the recommended CYA range.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone ;)
 
And I am going to do the overnight test tonight, already brought level up to 6.4 and will check it first thing in the AM.

If my CC is almost zero, am I correct in thinking that there is no algae in my water? I thought that was what the CC indicated; whether or not chlorine was tied up fighting algae.

Yes, I know about the CYA, and that was why I changed to the bleach method.

Is a SWG a better way to go??


Thanks
 
Algae does not necessarily result in cc showing on the test. The FC also breaks down the CC so it may not register.

OCLT confirms if you are losing FC to something in the pool and not the sun.

SWG is a great option if you have the initial funds. Not really a money saver but saves you having to carry the bleach bottles.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone ;)
 

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The Goldline (Hayward) line of SWG are solid performers that have been around for a long time. I had one at my last pool and going to be adding one to this one.

We generally recommend a cell sized for 1.5-3 times the size of your pool so that the cell lasts longer (general life is 3-5 years). So, the link you provided for a 18k gallon cell might be a little on the small side. There is no problem using one of the Aqua Rite SWG for an above ground pool, although I see that the Aqua Trol includes a timer so the hook up would be a bit easier.
 
jblizzle said:
The Goldline (Hayward) line of SWG are solid performers that have been around for a long time. I had one at my last pool and going to be adding one to this one.

We generally recommend a cell sized for 1.5-3 times the size of your pool so that the cell lasts longer (general life is 3-5 years). So, the link you provided for a 18k gallon cell might be a little on the small side. There is no problem using one of the Aqua Rite SWG for an above ground pool, although I see that the Aqua Trol includes a timer so the hook up would be a bit easier.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the info.
 
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