trying to please two masters

EGGARTFAM said:
When is it safe to get in?
Hard to tell until you post numbers. You are done shocking when you meet the criteria in the shocking link: pool-school/shocking_your_pool . Then all that is needed is to make sure the chlorine level has dropped below the shock level, it'll drop on it's own in the sun assuming no more chlorine is added. Then all you need to do is maintain the suggested level for your CYA level. It gets much easier at this point.
 
wetchem, did the test, water stayed clear.

this means that it's not metals, yes? I stuffed some extra paper towel around the cartridge filter yesterday evening, after I had vacuumed and was putting in a clean filter (I have been switching them out at least twice a day). Since you have had the Intek Cartridge filter before, I'm a little concerned. When I went to walmart to buy a replacement set, the letters matched what I was supposed to get, but they are significantly skinnier than the original. Is this causing not as much to be filtered out?

I will add a picture also, to what the paper towels looked like, seems like they got more than the filter usually does...completely slimy. I think it ruined my filter though.
7466221780_2bb0b7a47f_z.jpg


So my test kit comes in today. I keep telling hubby that this will REALLY let us know if this is something organic in the water. I have a feeling I should go out and buy some bleach. Hoping that since I've been staying what seems to be ahead of the growth (I am not thinking that's what it is), that the shock process shouldn't take too long. The hubs has a birthday Sunday and wanted to have the family over to our place and let all the kids swim.

And here is what the pool looked like this morning. I'm thinking I need to upgrade, either the pool vacuum or the filtering system. Any suggestions? I just feel like we're never going to get to blue with this stuff lurking in the water.
7466232514_1a5205dda6_z.jpg
 
EGGARTFAM said:
I'm thinking I need to upgrade, either the pool vacuum or the filtering system. Any suggestions? I just feel like we're never going to get to blue with this stuff lurking in the water.
7466232514_1a5205dda6_z.jpg

I think you are going to upgrade to a steel wall above ground, you might consider getting a Hayward or Pentair filter. You might be able o find good ones on Craigslist. I saw a Perflex with pump for less than 200 that came with a bunch of pool stuff.
 
EGGARTFAM said:
wetchem, did the test, water stayed clear. this means that it's not metals, yes?
Unfourtunately, it doesn't preclude metals, it just does not confirm the presence of iron. Either the green is not iron, the sequestrant prevented the oxidation to iron-oxide, there wasn't enough chlorine to force the oxidation, or there wasn't enough iron present to be seen. On the bright side... more than likely not algae...
Feel like playing chemist again? Can you get ahold of a small amount of that brown stuff from the bottom of the pool?

EGGARTFAM said:
I stuffed some extra paper towel around the cartridge filter yesterday evening, after I had vacuumed and was putting in a clean filter (I have been switching them out at least twice a day). [...] I will add a picture also[...]
That is pretty close to what the papertowels looked like when I was doing that. I'd wrap a few around the filter and then several in the over-the-wall skimmer basket. Messy, but effective. More importaintly, when we got the sand-filter, the ones in the strainer helped to keep quite a bit out of the sand-filter. While using the cartridges, I would pull that every 2 hours, change out with a "clean" one that I'd wrapped a few paper towels around etc... then I'd "clean" the old filter.

EGGARTFAM said:
So my test kit comes in today. I keep telling hubby that this will REALLY let us know if this is something organic in the water. I have a feeling I should go out and buy some bleach.
:party: W.M. brand was on sale a week or so back... picked up the last four on the shelf.

It looks like you're getting so close... do you have a pool-leaf-rake (looks sorta like a butterfly net)? Something I would try if I had one would be to fill the net about 1/2 full of paper towels or fiber-fill from an old pillow... then VERY, very, slowly try to catch that stuff in the net on that fiber fill... would be tricky in that you'd have to keep a "forward" stroke the whole time.... and you'd need a catch bucket to drip the net in so that what you do manage to trap wouldn't get back into the water.


-wc
 
Here's my TF-100 test kit results:

(the pump has been running all day and the SWG was on for 5 hours, during direct sunlight hours)

FC: 0.5
CC: 0
TC: 0.5
TA: 130 (but it first turned red at 11 drops, just not completely red)
CH: 50
CYA: 28? (closest to 30, so that's the reading correct?)
pH: 7.5 (from the smaller kit)

wetchem, I like playing chemist, what do you propose I do once I catch some of that stuff??

So, I'm guessing chlorine. Test again in 30 minutes, and see where I'm at?
 
Review this for more details on the tests:
extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html

For TA you keep adding until the color changes stop and then not count the last drop that did nothing.

Sounds like the CYA is near 30, realize that lighting plays a huge role in that test, so you have to learn to be consistent.

Yes, get the FC in there now before the pool turns green for reasons other than metal.
 

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ok, after 30 minutes, I just tested FC, Crud. Didn't test the other two chlorines. I'm going to test again soon (at what would be the hour mark from adding 54 oz. of 10% chlorine).

Ok, for FC it started to turn at 7 drops, but not completely, turned completely at 8, so that makes FC between 3.5 or 4, correct? Which is what it should be according to how much chlorine I added from the pool calculator.

Am I doing the overnight test? If it doesn't hold overnight, does that mean algae? Do you run the pump with the overnight test? I would assume so because that is part of the shock process, running the pump 24/7. Should I brush before I go to bed? If the chlorine drops after one hour, add more? If I add more, should I add to shock level and go ahead and start with the shock process?

Sorry, so many questions. I have a feeling the pool won't be ready by Sunday, huh?

Anxious to see something happen now that I have the test kit and can get reliable results on demand.
 
CC of zero, that is good to see. Should be no algae then. Get your FC up per your CYA amount using liquid chlorine then you can start figuring out how long your SWG has to run to maintain that level. They seem to be best at maintaining FC than raising it quickly. You'll want to get your CYA up to 70ish especially considering where you live. The sun and temps will burn your FC out quicker than the SWG can make if with that low a CYA. BTW, that looks safe to swim in to me assuming you get your FC within the parameters which is really quick and easy. You are so close to being in the sweet spot.
 
You posted again while I was typing...lol. I would test it after it gets dark, record it and see what is at tomorrow morning before the sun hits it. My hunch is that it will hold during that time. Unless it drops dramatically I wouldn't shock. Obviously do not run the SWG over night. You're still getting goop on the paper towels I assume so you can keep running the pump if you want until that clears.
 
after one hour, no more added chlorine, dark,

FC (again, not sure about these drops, at 9 drops, it was juuuuuust about clear, 10, completely clear), so that means 4.5 to 5?

CC, still 0

DH is adamant it's algae. He thinks the Jack's Magic wouldn't still be pulling stuff out at this point. Going to look back in my posts and see when I added that.

What now? test in the morning before sun is shining on the pool? start adding CYA?

How do we get rid of the "junk" in the pool? Just wait for it to get filtered out, will the water be "blue" by then?

What about the TA? Too high for a salt-water pool? Leave it alone?

Yeah, so since I was getting frustrated waiting on FedEx and just frustrated in general...this is what I did today instead of sit at home:

7469893320_533c7874cc_c.jpg
 
The beach is always a good place to be for relaxing. You're right on the TA, it is high so good to drop it. Vac to waste is a good idea as Dave said. If the levels are still close in the morning before the sun hits it then I don't see how it can be algae and the water looked clear except for the tint. I've never used well water so not sue how natural stuff in the water will affect color.
 
gonna have to figure out how to vacuum to waste, me thinks.

The standard stuff that comes with the intek pool, well, it just doesn't make sense when I try to figure out how to vacuum to waste. I guess I will enjoy my glass of Boddington's and wait until morning then!

Thanks y'all! :cheers:
 
You can take a vac hose submersed in the water, put the end over the return eye then once it's full of water quickly cover the end and pull it over the edge of the pool. This will get you a siphon effect so the water will come out the open end. Slowly move the vac head over the junk and it will be drawn out. I've done this a few times to get some junk out of the pool. Do it quickly enough and you won't lose too much water.
 
Ok... two ways to do this...
Either capture some of this slime from the pool, or take a good huge scrape of the junk from the papertowels.
We're going to nutralize any clorine and sequstrant in the sampe.
Do this outside or in a well vented space...
Do this where having bleaching isn't an issue.
!! Carefull, this may foam, not expecting it to do so; however, just a heads up !!

IF scrapings, then place in an 1/8cp 3% hydrogen peroxide
IF captured... try for the least amount of pool water... add enough 3% hydrogen peroxide to double the volume.
mix well,
IF we foam... once stopped, at 3 tablespoons HP and mix, repeat until foaming stops. Both organics and Metals will react with HP and foam... something fun we used to do at the job fairs was add VERY concentrated solution of HP to a small beaker with a very tiny amount of iron or lead in the bottom, cover the small beaker with an inverted large beaker with a weight on top ... the reaction starts out VERY slowly, just a few bubbles like a soda-pop, lots of laughs from the teens, worried looks on our faces just to build the drama.... then.... WHOSH :shock: :shock: :shock: :!: so much fun watching them jump. :twisted:

but I digress...

Let sit for 1/2 hour.

Something white is more than likely an organic... algae will do this... so will your skin and hair :) when exposed to high levels of HP... You may need to let this sit overnight to let things settle.

If nothing happens, then you more than likely do not have any organics... thus, more than likely not algae... more likely something metalic. More over, if the stuff stays brown then I would suspect iron or something else inorganic... I would not suspect algea...

IF the water becomes crystal clear... I mean, really really really clear, like nothing settles out, just clear solution... then... we might try to drive the FC and the pH really high to see if the metals drop out; however, this can be a tad... well... reactive.
It must be done outside.
You must not have your face anywhere close to the container... you can not be in the possible fumes!
Double the volume of the current solution with bottled-distilled/RO water and mix (at this point your hands should be safe, just keep your nose away... just in case, once again, I'm not expecting anything too nasty - just being cautious... onething when I do it, compleatly different when someone else is doing this).... after each of the following additions mix well: add 3 tablespoons bleach. Wait 5 to 10 minutes... if nothing, add another 3 tbls bleach... place in sun... check in 1/2 hour... if no change... add 3 tbls bleach let sit in sun for as long as possible... add yet another 3 tbls bleach, let sit overnight... check. In the morning, IF it's iron something brownish should settle to the bottom... Iron and many metals will oxidize and settle out with high pH (7.8 or higher) and large amounts of an oxidizer like chlorine or HP. If you get a clear or milky gel, it should not be organic at this point - the HP should have consumed the organics, it's something metalic.

-wc
 

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