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Thread: Heater kicked off when Polaris came on last night....

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    Heater kicked off when Polaris came on last night....

    Our Hayward Heat Pump went off last night and was flashing an LS error code. According to my book that means low/no flow. I have my Polaris 280 on a timer to come on from 3am-7am every morning. Last night was the only night we had a problem. The low was in the lower 60's so it was not temp related. The "clean" pressure of my Hayward filter rests at about 18psi, has since we installed it. It WAS up to about 23 psi this morning. Is that enough of a pressure climb to make the heater not get enough flow when the Polaris was on also? The Polaris also has a dedictated line with a booster pump. I did backwash it and the polaris and heater worked again together and all is still fine. I had previously backwashed Saturday. My water is crystal clear and we are dealing with some residual pollen, but the water from backwashing was not particularly dirty, not as it was Saturday. Our furninture is not all green as it was in the past weeks either from the pollen.

    PB thinks I shoud add some filter cleaner to it. But, the filter was only installed last Sept and we used it until late Oct, then for about the past 2.5-3 weeks now. I wouldn't think it needed cleaning yet. I also backwash it once a week regardless of the pressure showing it needs it so I know it is not that dirty. We have never had an algae outbreak either.
    ~39,000 gallon True L, 43x28x18, Steel Wall, Vinyl Liner; 2 skimmers, 2 bottom drains, 3 returns, 1 dedicated cleaner line with Polaris booster pump; Polaris 280
    Hayward Pro Series 300 pound Sand Filter, Hayward Heat Pump 116K BTU
    2 Hayward Colorlogic LED Lights; Diving Board, X-Stream Slide, 3 Polaris Mini Jets; Step and Leisure Bench in deep end (SwimOut)
    Aqua Rite SWCG with Aqua Plus Automation and Controls (Goldline); Aqua Pod Remote for Controls and Aqua Logic Base Station

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    May 2007
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    The flow rate does go down as the filter pressure increases. If your system is normally only a little above the flow rate required by the heater it could well go below that limit as the filter got dirty. However, it is difficult to tell what your flow rate really is without a flow meter so hard to be sure either way.

    The Polaris shouldn't make any significant difference if the booster pump draws water from after the heater. If the booster pump is drawing water from before the heater it could make a small difference.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    I *think* the plumbing is so that the heater is last in line, then straight from the heater to the returns. That makes more sense why it may have cut off the way you explained it. My filter psi has always been about 18, I think I posted on that last season. Is ther a reason why some are so much lower? I was told back then that it was fine to be at that rate. Is there any way I can lower it? I guess I will just have to keep an eye on the pressure and not go with the recommended 50% above normal to backwash. I was doing it once a week last year and I did not even get that far this time, 5 days though. I don't mind backwashing often as I am trying to get my CYA down from close to 90 without flat out draining it.
    ~39,000 gallon True L, 43x28x18, Steel Wall, Vinyl Liner; 2 skimmers, 2 bottom drains, 3 returns, 1 dedicated cleaner line with Polaris booster pump; Polaris 280
    Hayward Pro Series 300 pound Sand Filter, Hayward Heat Pump 116K BTU
    2 Hayward Colorlogic LED Lights; Diving Board, X-Stream Slide, 3 Polaris Mini Jets; Step and Leisure Bench in deep end (SwimOut)
    Aqua Rite SWCG with Aqua Plus Automation and Controls (Goldline); Aqua Pod Remote for Controls and Aqua Logic Base Station

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