I ordered an Intex 15 ft x 48 in Metal Frame Pool Set to replace my old inflatable ring pool. Last year I used sand and leveled the old pool. I have no level areas in my yard. This year I had planned and started to build a large sand box for lack of a better term. It will be square consisting of 3 walls. The side without the wall will be the highest point of ground and the side walls will be triangular following the contour of the ground. The 3rd wall will simply be a rectangle. I was going to put in a weed barrier just to be safe and fill with sand. The tops of the walls would be the top of the sand and level. I was going to place some sort of patio stones where the metal frame touched the ground to disperse the weight. They would be level with the sand. Then cover that with the ground cloth and install the pool. The walls of the box are going to be held in with 4 by 4 posts that will be buried about a foot each. All treated lumber that will be sealed or painted. There is about a foot difference over a 16 feet span(which is the reason for building the box. I was looking over the instructions they mention placing the pool on an absolutely flat surface. Which is the reason I am building the box. And not to set it up on sand. I truly believe that what I am building is well beyond my needs and will work for pool but would like to hear some thoughts.
15 ft x 48 in Metal Frame Pool Set installation
- Thread starter raidencmc
- Start date
That is similar to what I had planned to do. Looking at the diagram I will probably put poly on top of the sand and try to create a sealed area do there will be no water penetration into the sand. I will also look into screening instead of the sand. My septic system is near by and because of that I chose to box in the area instead of digging a level surface.
If you try to build up a foot to level without the proper equipment you are going to have problems with your pool settling, more so if you use sand.
Even the screenings that deep will have to be wet down and compacted really good in order for it to support the pool properly.
Adding about 6" of screenings, wetting it slightly and the let it dry on top and using a hand operated vibrating compacting machine, and then adding another 6" and repeating will help greatly, but it is going to take allot of compacting.
This is the very reason I started that thread showing the proper way to level your pool site, what you are planning is possible, but requires the proper equipment, time and patience to make it work.
Check out our project, (link in signature), notice the start date and how long we have been working on it to get to where it is now, and it is still NOT ready.
Even the screenings that deep will have to be wet down and compacted really good in order for it to support the pool properly.
Adding about 6" of screenings, wetting it slightly and the let it dry on top and using a hand operated vibrating compacting machine, and then adding another 6" and repeating will help greatly, but it is going to take allot of compacting.
This is the very reason I started that thread showing the proper way to level your pool site, what you are planning is possible, but requires the proper equipment, time and patience to make it work.
Check out our project, (link in signature), notice the start date and how long we have been working on it to get to where it is now, and it is still NOT ready.
For what it is worth, and that may not be much, I had a contractor level my site (for last year's set up) and he built up (in some places about 10 inches, I think) with "crushed rock" (which may be what Samantha is talking about). I had no trouble at all.
crek31 said:
Note the "key" here is he had a contractor level the site, thus proper equipment to ensure it was properly compacted.
Yea I guess "crushed" stone would be something like screenings, except it is more expensive, screenings are what is left over after they "screen/sift" out all the larger rock, basically it is considered waste, so they sell it CHEAP, lol, better to get something for it than nothing, plus it really doesn't cost them anything extra to make it, just left over material.
I use 1.5" extruded polysterene (something close to that) -- I don't think there is anything magical about the depth, I just found the price point I was comfortable with. I store it with a giant tarp wrapping it on the side of the house and it has lasted several years -- the more level your site, the less it will crack and the longer it will hold up. I just followed advice on TFP for the extruded stuff, others have opined that is definitely what you want. I recently saw that someone used fan-board but I have not seen if they are happy with it. That is way thinner, but also a ton cheaper. I had considered it, but chickened out and spent about double on the 1.5 inch stuff.
On cement this year, I love having the foam for feel. On dirt in years past, I loved it for feel and also for having a nice smooth floor that was easy to vacuum.
On cement this year, I love having the foam for feel. On dirt in years past, I loved it for feel and also for having a nice smooth floor that was easy to vacuum.
I was wondering if anyone had any luck using different thicknesses if foam. Like half the pool on 2'' and the other half on 1". Just trying to save my back some pain.
If you think your compacting is good you can test it to be sure. For water a 48" stack 1" x 1" weights roughly about 1.8 pounds. If you go four times this as a safety factor you'd have a weight of about 7 pounds. If you place something this weight of about 7 pounds per square inch and it doesn't sink in you're good. If it does your compaction isn't sufficient.
I happened to have a 3' long 1" x 1" steel bar (valued about $60 retail) because I do some machining. This bar weighs 10 pounds (28" long weight about 7 lbs). I used this to test my compaction and I did raise the ground on one side. If you find steel in a scrap yard you can get it for about 50 cents a pound.
You can use a similar method to test it.
I happened to have a 3' long 1" x 1" steel bar (valued about $60 retail) because I do some machining. This bar weighs 10 pounds (28" long weight about 7 lbs). I used this to test my compaction and I did raise the ground on one side. If you find steel in a scrap yard you can get it for about 50 cents a pound.
You can use a similar method to test it.
I'm the guy with the fanfold under the pool. I'm happy with it so far. It's been about a month and I can still feel it. I leveled the ground as best I could by swinging a 2X4 around a pivot bar with a level on top. I then added some sand and kept running that board in circles until it was level. It's not perfect, but it's as close as I could get it and it's within spec.
I put the fanfold on top of the sand, and I used pieces of masking tape in several places on the seams. My thought was that I just needed it to stay in place until the pool was filled. I did notice yesterday what looks like a small wrinkle that I don't think was there, I'll look into it when the weather clears up. On a brighter note, the rain today added an inch or so to my low water level.
I put the fanfold on top of the sand, and I used pieces of masking tape in several places on the seams. My thought was that I just needed it to stay in place until the pool was filled. I did notice yesterday what looks like a small wrinkle that I don't think was there, I'll look into it when the weather clears up. On a brighter note, the rain today added an inch or so to my low water level.
So I moved the location a bit to save myself some digging. I am going to dig the whole pool area. I was wondering in the lowest area if I could double up the foam. I assume that it will compact twice as much as the area that has a single layer of foam. I imagined that the foam would be a few inches larger than the liner and the stones would sit on the ground a inch or so away from the foam.
Been digging a lot. and the pool is about half way filled up! How close or far away should the feet be from the liner. I know everyone mentioned they move outward as you fill but mine haven't moved but a .25 inch or so. I still have the ability to adjust them a but not sure what my goal should be.