The PoolCalculator, while great for those familiar with it, can be a daunting to a newbie. It also doesn't get them started on what the first step should be. What I'm trying to create is something that not only will give them the proper amounts, the proper order and wait time between steps, but also a little educational paragraph about each balance item and different chemical options to achieve the goal.
The output would be verbose and user friendly such as:
Issue: pH not balanced.
Problem: pH of 8.0 is too high.
Solution: Lower your pH by adding ##oz Muriatic Acid or ##oz Dry Acid
Method: Slowly pour directly in front of the return jet with the pump running. Circulate for 1 hour.
Info: pH is a measure of how acidic or basic the water is. pH levels below 7.2 tend to make eyes sting or burn. pH below 6.8 can cause damage to metal parts, particularly pool heaters with copper heat exchange coils. High pH can lead to calcium scaling. pH contributes to the CSI, which indicates the tendency for plaster damage or calcium scaling. Aeration will tend to cause the pH to rise. pH also changes chlorine's effectiveness and how fast it is consumed.
Issue: Chlorine/Stabilizer not balanced.
Problem: Stabilizer (CYA) level is too low.
Solution: Add ##oz of Cyanuric Acid
Method: Fill an old sock with granules. Hang the sock in front of the return jet with the pump running. Circulate for up to 24 hours or until sock is empty.
Note: The adjusted CYA level will take up to 7 days to register on the CYA test. An alternate way of dissolving the granules is to add them directly to the skimmer. Using this method will not allow you to backwash the filter for 7 days or the CYA will be flushed before it is all dissolved.
Info: Cyanuric acid, often called stabilizer or conditioner, both protects FC from sunlight and lowers the effective strength of the FC (by holding some of the FC in reserve). The higher your CYA level, the more FC you need to use to get the same effect. It is important to know your CYA level so you can figure out what FC level to aim for.
Problem: Combined Chlorine level (CC) is too high.
Solution: Add ##oz of liquid bleach attain a FC of ##ppm to begin the Shock Process.
Method: Slowly pour directly in front of the return jet with the pump running. Allow to circulate for 30-60 minutes then re-test FC to continue the process.
Info: Combined chlorine is an intermediate breakdown product created in the process of sanitizing the pool. CC causes the "chlorine" smell many people associate with chlorine pools. If CC is above 0.5, you should shock your pool. CC indicates that there is something in the water that the FC is in the process of breaking down. In an outdoor pool, CC will normally stay at or near zero as long as you maintain an appropriate FC level and the pool gets some direct sunlight.
Problem: Free Chlorine Level (FC) is too low.
Solution: Allow FC to fall to ##ppm when the shock process is complete.
Info: Free chlorine shows the level of disinfecting chlorine available (active plus reserve) to keep your pool sanitary. Normally, FC should be tested and chlorine added daily. If you have an automatic feeder or SWG, you can test it every couple of days. FC is consumed by sunlight, and by breaking down organic material in your pool. The level of FC you need to maintain depends on your CYA level and how much you use the pool. See the Chlorine / CYA Chart for guidelines on the appropriate FC level to maintain based on your CYA level.
Issue: Total Alkalinity (TA) not balanced.
Problem: TA is too low.
Solution: Add ##oz of Baking Soda
Method: Evenly broadcast across the surface of the deepest area of the pool.
Info: Total alkalinity indicates the water's ability to buffer pH changes. Buffering means you need to use a larger quantity of a chemical to change the pH. At low TA levels, the pH tends to swing around wildly. At high TA levels, the pH tends to drift up. TA contributes to the CSI which indicates the tendency for plaster damage or calcium scaling.
Issue: Calcium Hardness (CH) not balanced.
Problem: CH is too low.
Solution: Add ##oz of calcium chloride or
Method: Broadcast pellets evenly across the bottom of the pool. Stir with brush until completely dissolved.
Info: Calcium hardness indicates the amount of calcium in the water. Over time, water with low calcium levels will tend to dissolve calcium out of plaster, pebble, tile, stone, concrete, and to some extent fiberglass surfaces. You can prevent this from happening by keeping the water saturated with calcium.
gboulton said:
JesseWV said:
I realize the Pool Calculator is indispensable for finding out the proper amounts of chemicals to add to reach user defined goals. It would be nice to have a simple tool to advise pool owners how to maintain TFP recommended water balance with similar step-by-step simplicity.
The Pool Calculator does exactly this.
In the final yellow cell of the table, you'll find "Suggested Goal Levels" and can select the levels recommended by TFP for each chemical. Once you've selected TFP levels, entered the appropriate capacity of your pool at the top, these settings will be saved.
From then on, simply enter your current values, and to the right you'll be presented with exactly what you seek...appropriate amount of Chemical B to add.
