Need advice on Aquapure 2-port to 3-port conversion

Jun 7, 2012
3
Hi everyone, just want to say thanks to all for all their valuable contributions on this site. It's a great resource.

I know there have been a lot of these types of questions in the past, but it seems each case is a little different depending on current plumbing. I need to replace my old model 2-port Jandy Auqapure 1400 to the new 3-port style. In my circumstance, the existing cell is plumbed in tightly.

[attachment=0:30hdm3v6]Salt Cell Existing.JPG[/attachment:30hdm3v6]

I believe the new cell is the same length so would otherwise fit in the same location if I can somehow change the plumbing for the new couplers (2.5" versus 2" on existing). Can anyone who has done this confirm whether its the same size and should fit in that spot?

To fit the new coupler, it seems other posts have suggested cutting flush with the 90-degree fitting and using an inside pipe extender. If I do that, will I still have the same space to work with or will that fitting consume space where the new cell will fit?

Anyone with experience making this change out have any better ideas for me? My skills are somewhat limited but I figure I can cut and glue pipe if I have a solid game plan for how it is going to fit together when I'm done. I'm not too stoked to start cutting then figuring out what to do...

Thanks in advance for helping me out... I'm feeling kind of stuck right now!
 

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You currently have a horizontal loop of pipe. If you switch that to a vertical loop of pipe it will be much simpler to access the cell and there won't be any issue of running out of room or tight fits.

You should be able to cut the pipe right up against the 3 way valve, and then connect to the 3 way valve using the next size up fitting over the outside of the valve. From there you turn straight up. Place the cell vertically and two 90s to connect to another vertical piece of pipe and you are all set.
 
Thanks for the perspective. It had not occurred to me to go vertical but that surely does solve the problem of space. With that in mind, here is my plan - perhaps spelled out in a little more detail than many would require but I am fairly remedial at plumbing (and most other handy sorts of things for that matter) so I would like some validation.

I will cut, as suggested, right at the outlet of the valve. The 90 that is there now is labeled a 2" fitting so if I understand correctly a 2.5" fitting will fit OVER the outlet of the valve. I will align that 2.5" fitting such that it points up (as suggested). A reducer bushing will go into that 2.5" fitting such that 2" pipe will fit into the other end.

I will then use a small piece of 2" pipe inside the bushing and inside the "tailpiece" supplied with the 3-port cell so I can get the new cell inline. I will plumb the new cell such that the port that is on the side in the vertical alignment (it is on the bottom of the cell when held horizontally) serves as the inflow and the port on top (other end port when held horizontal) will be capped.

Coming off that side port will, of course, be the supplied tailpiece which accepts 2" plumbing. I will use a small piece of 2" pipe to connect the fitting to a 2" 90 pointing back down. At this point I I just need to cut the existing plumbing somewhere along that longer horizontal piece of the existing loop rebuilding the 180 to align with the new vertical arrangement of the cell. If everything before this seems to be on the mark, even I should be able to figure out what to do at this point.

Sorry for spelling it out in such detail, but this is about the only way I can figure out whether I have a workable plan. So, do you think I have a workable plan?
 
Well, I did it. I am really not much of a DIY sort so I am pleased with myself and hope you'll indulge me. I am also putting this here for anyone else who might be reluctant to do this yourself... if I can get this done then you can too!

Here is my handiwork (everything not painted black is my new plumbing):
[attachment=0:1etofxfb]new cell.JPG[/attachment:1etofxfb]

Using Jason's advice, I aligned my new cell vertically and that indeed eliminated any space constraints. Rather than cutting all the way back to the valve however, I chose to use an "inside pipe extended" where I cut at the existing 90. This was a bit of a compromise and surely that joint was the weakest of the ones I glued up (I used some "JB Weld" to fix a tiny leak and it seems to be holding fine). But it was considerably easier and I think it will be just fine.

Changing out the black power cable was an elementary task even for me.. I left the old sensor inline so I didn't have to do anything with that piece. After adjusting the salinity a bit, it is generating chlorine as expected. :party:
 

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