Aireation of water ..

I went with the "pool cooler" method, its nothing fancy, just a 1 1/2" pvc threaded elbow joint connected to a ~2 foot long pvc pipe.

Get the hayward eyeball removal tool from your local pool store, ran me ~$2.99 or so, and then simply pull out the jet and replace with the pvc elbow (screw in), point the top straight up and attach the pipe so that it sticks out of the water, aim it so that it creates the most amount of bubbles.

the pool cooler part has a T-joint (capped on both sides) with holes drilled in it to cause the water to spray across the pool, it is intended to cool down the water via evaporation.
 
At this point in the early pool season am I better to control the PH using borax until the solar cover comes off or should I remove the cover and control it by aeration? Does anyone have pics of Duraleigh's creation I didnt see any on the Pool Cooler thread. Is it also true that borax "locks" PH ?
 
With a cover on much of the time, mildly high TA levels don't usually cause serious issues. Meanwhile extreme TA levels would require some action. So what you need to do all depends on your test results, which you didn't list.

Borax buffers PH, much as TA does, further slowing PH changes. So it doesn't exactly lock the PH as much as it noticeably slows the rate of change. Borax will also tend to reduce the amount of chlorine you need, which can reduce some of the causes of PH rise (ie the SWG cell will be on less so less aeration).
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.