Does everything look alright?

[cdereu]

I'm curious about my testing and wonder if I should be doing something more? I tested this morning and got the following numbers:

CL: 1
PH: 7.2
TA: 280 ( Which has always been high)
TH: 120
CYA: Do not have - need to order test kit this weekend!
But I have added approx. 2lbs of stabilizer since I opened 4 weeks ago.

I put the boost on my SWG and tested this afternoon.

CL: 3
PH: 7.5
TA: 280
TH: 120

Any help is appreciated! My water is very clear and this just seems to easy!

 

[ROB N]

First you need to lower your TA, and keep fc above 3 it would also be nice to have cc results. We need to know your CYA when you get your test kit. I suggest you purchase a Taylor k2006 or the TF-100

 

[duraleigh]

Keep your chlorine up around 3ppm. You should give up the test strips and get a kit so you REALLY know what your numbers are....we are all just guessing based on unreliable test results but that your water looks good is a VERY good sign. :lol:

 

[BoDarville]

cdereu:

Welcome to TFP!

One critical test that is missing is the CYA test. The amount of CYA will determine your normal (maintenance) FC range as well as your shock FC target. If your current kit does not test for CYA, I would advise getting one that does ASAP. For starters, you can click on the Test Kit Comparison link in my signature below.

Another test that is missing is CH (Calcium Hardness). Plaster pools require a range of 250 - 350 ppm; Lower amounts for vinyl & fiberglass pools.

As for the TH test, I'm not sure what that is testing. This can vary among test kits. CH could be a part of it. See if your documentation gives any clues. In any event, the results from the test kit give you a consolidated number that could be made up of several chemicals/metals. You need to isolate CH. Again a good test kit will do this.

Assuming your CYA was close to zero with the new fill water when you opened and you added 2 lbs of stabilizer in a 5,000 gal SWG pool, your CYA should be around 45-50, per the Pool Calculator. SWG pools tend to run better at CYA levels between 60-80, but don't add any more stabilizer until you get a good test kit (it's easier to add more if needed than to get rid of it if it gets too high). In the interim, I would keep the FC at 3 ppm to be safe. Once you know your real CYA, then the FC amount can be adjusted accordingly. Click the Chlorine/CYA Chart in my sig to learn more about the relationship between FC and CYA.

 

[cdereu]

I have been using the HTH Drop Test Kit, not the test strips. I was hoping I was doing the right thing by keeping my chlorine at 3 until I get the test kit to check everything. Should have by middle of next week to give current readings.