Need help with my new Intex 18' Ultra Frame

[Adam724]

So I am a new, first time pool owner. We purchased the Intex 18' Ultra Frame Round pool and also purchased the SWG to accompany the included pump/filter. Some background info...I am located in FL so the pool will be up year round and the pool has been up and filled for less than a week. It has done nothing but rain for the last few days.

So here is what I am noticing. As I have seen on this forum and other resources, it appears that the included filter pump (1500 gph) for a 6,500 gal pool is just not cutting the mustard. There is quite a bit of sediment and debris on the bottom and it just doesn't seem like the water is circulating with much power.

Also the water is still greenish in color and the FC is low, pH is high and TA is high.

How long should a new pool take to have SWG get the pool up and running in terms of water chemistry and color?

Is the undersized filter pump causing part of this or is it just the excessive rainwater?

Is it worth the investment to get a larger filter and pump? I read good things about Hayward, Penta and others have even posted about the Intex sand filter being a decent upgrade. Should I go cartridge or sand?

Ok, I've rambled on long enough. I would appreciate any insight that anyone has to share. Thanks.

 

[mpacheco72]

I have the same pool with a Pentair sand filter and pump. I believe that it is definitely worth the investment to get a larger filter and pump. I also believe that you should shock your pool with liquid bleach until you remove all the green and then let your SWG maintain the FC level after that.

 

[Adam724]

Should the SWG be running during a shock? Or just the filter/pump?

 

[Big_kid]

Do you have test results? FC, CC, CYA? I know it seems like a lot to take in all at once, but read through Pool School a few times (First time I've advised someone else to read it!). It boggled my mind the first time I read it, but I kept reading posts on the boards and it sank in. I now feel that this site has given me the tools I need to understand what's happening in my pool, why it's happening , and what to do about it.

Get a GOOD test kit that will tell you what you need to know. My TF100 arrived earlier this week. Using only the yellow OTO & phenol red test kit like I had been ($10 Wal-mart kit) there was insufficient information to keep things from getting cloudy & green. Folks who seem to know what they're talking about have posted that the strips can be inaccurate- how long were they sitting in a hot warehouse before they arrived at the store, only to sit for how much longer? When you do your own testing, you know how it's done, and it's done consistently.

I've had 2 or 3 Intex/intex knockoff pools in the past. ALL the filters/pumps that came with them were horribly underpowered, which was part of my problem. 2 or 3 years ago a guy at the pool store talked me into getting a sand filter- best thing I've done for the pools yet. I can now vacuum effectively, and I also know the water is getting circulated & filtered adequately.

/off rant- back to your questions.
I would upgrade the pump. I posted pics and a link to the album in this thread:
post380149.html#p380149

Also the water is still greenish in color and the FC is low, pH is high and TA is high.

The pool calculator will help immensely. I've punched in numbers 3X today alone!
http://www.poolcalculator.com/

How long should a new pool take to have SWG get the pool up and running in terms of water chemistry and color?

having never used one, I'm no help to you with this one. Sorry!

Is the undersized filter pump causing part of this or is it just the excessive rainwater?

Probably both.

Is it worth the investment to get a larger filter and pump? ... Should I go cartridge or sand?

If you've read this far, you know my experience with this.

Should the SWG be running during a shock? Or just the filter/pump?

Turn off the SWG during the shock process. You'll need to track how much chlorine is used, and there's no way to measure how much it's putting out. It will skew the results of your Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT). you can't measure what's been used if it's being replenished automatically.

Read pool school, use the search button and read whatever posts seem relevant to your situation and learn from those who have already gone where you are about to go. Get a good test kit (if you don't already have one), get a good pump/filter combo, and start enjoying your pool!

 

[Adam724]

Thanks for the advice. Appreciate it.

 

[Big_kid]

Glad to pitch in where I can!

 

[Casey]

We need some accurate numbers. If your pH is high, you need to bring that down asap. If you don't have a test kit, we will deal with a full set of pool store numbers til you get your kit ordered.

First order should be getting that pH down pronto!

 

[Adam724]

Ok. TF Test Kit has been ordered.

Here are results using the crappy 3-way test strips:

FC: 0.2

pH: higher than 8.5

TA: higher than 240

That's all I have for now

 

[Bama Rambler]

The first thing to do is get the pH down with muriatic acid. Since your TA is so high I'd shoot for the low 7's. Then add enough bleach to get about 4 ppm FC in the pool

 

[Adam724]

Thanks Bama. So do I still need to shock? Or will the muriatic acid and bleach take care of it?

 

[Bama Rambler]

Once you get the kit you can test to see if you need to shock. I suspect you will but the test will tell you for sure.