Can't keep Chlorine level - Help!

Jun 8, 2012
2
I know this is a covered topic, but I am new to chemistry issues and cannot see the forest through the trees. I've owner this pool for 6 years now, and this is the first year I've had this problem. Until now, it's been relatively easy to keep levels as they should be. Here are the stats:
24,000 gallon pool
Inground
Plaster
DE filter

Current condition of water:
No algea
Crystal clear
Temp: 72
CYA: 65
Tot Chlorine .5
Free Chlorine: .5
PH 7
Adj tot Alk: 49
CA hardness: 200
Phosphates: 1500

I"ve added shock, and have my chlorine feed at the highest setting, with abt 12 pucks in the dispenser. I've tested the line - no clogs.

You can probably guess the drill. Pool Co did the testing - used a good kit, thought. Said I needed to reduce phosphates, so I am in the process of doing this now (I know, I know). Everything I read refers to CYA being off, but mine is not. So, question is, what do I do if the phosphates reduction does not work?
 
Stop using those pucks!! Your CYA is already close to ideal for a SWG, but it's way to high to perform the shock process effectively.

You need bleach. Lots of it. Now. And a decent test kit.

In the evening, add enough bleach to get FC up to about 10. Turn off the chlorine feeder. Let it circulate for about an hour, brush everything good to really get it mixed. Then take a reading after the sun goes down. Take another in the morning before the sun hits it. If you lost more than 1 ppm, you need to perform the shock process.

You won't be able to get accurate readings to run this test if you don't have a test kit of your own.

Pool School covers everything I just typed in much greater detail.
 
:wave: Welcome :wave:

First, actually your CYA is off. The recommended range is 30-50ppm for CYA and all the pucks in your chlorinator are adding more. Once those 12 are gone that will have added another ~16ppm CYA putting you around 80ppm (if the pool store test is to be believed). What was the "shock" you added to the pool? Was it liquid or solid? If solid that may have added MORE CYA.

Also your pH and TA are a little low according to the pool store test, but lets ignore that for now.

Here is what I would recommend:
1. Get all the pucks out of the water and do not use anything but liquid bleach
2. Your CYA is a little high, but if the test was right it should be managable without draining water IF you stop adding CYA with stabilized chlorine
3. Order one of the recommended test kits (see link in my signature)
4. Read through Pool School (button in upper right)
5. Once you have your test kit and test you own levels, you need to follow the Shocking Your Pool process ... what you have not is not "shocking" ... it is NOT a 1 time addition, but involves accurate testing and dosing.

Removing the phosphates is pointless and a waste of money if you maintain the accurate FC level for your CYA (see Chlorine CYA Chart). For reference, with a CYA of 65ppm, your FC should NEVER be below 5ppm and when going through the shock process FC should be ABOVE 26ppm.

We can help you take control of your pool through accurate testing and understanding of your pool's chemistry so that you only add what the pool NEEDS and not what the pool store wants to sell you ... saving you money.
 
Thanks guys! Now I have a plan. Interesting, that my pool store's Ideal CYA is 30-120 ppm. I suppose this is to generate more stabilizer sales, along with everything else to fix what goes out of whack in the process. I will report back my progress.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.