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Thread: Automatic Chlorinators Suggestions

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    Automatic Chlorinators Suggestions

    I would like to ditch my floater that I use and install a chlorinator I have small kids. I think in my situation I would have to use an offline Chlorinator. Which brand is considered the best. Also any help in the installation department would be appreciated as well. I attached a link to photo of my setup. I think the return line is the one with the 2 paint stain droppings on it. I would think I would need to drill one of the holes close to that. However, based on the diagram I have seen one hole needs to be drilled in the line that goes from the pool pump to the filter. In my situation I have a flexible tube that goes from the pump to the filter so I'm not sure if I can drill a hole into that. If I can drill into the tubing where do I put the hole.




    Thanks
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    Mod Squad JohnT's Avatar
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    I've had good luck with my Rainbow 320 inline, so I'd be inclined to go with the Rainbow 300 if I was looking for an offline. If you want to go with liquid chlorine, you should look into the Liquidator

    It provides chlorine without adding CYA, which can cause problems eventually.
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    Rainbow makes both inline and offline. They are the most troublefree. However, most of us do not recommend using trichor because in many cases it leads to overstabilzation. If you don't know what that is you might want to take some time to read Pool School.

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    Hasa Liquidator
    http://www.ezpool.com/
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    The Liquidator looks like a novel idea. However, I don't see where you can buy one or how much they cost. Also liquid chlorine is hard to find in my area can you substitute bleach instead.

    As for the installation I'm confused I've seen two different diagrams where exactly should I drill my holes? Before the pump or after the pump on the line to the filter. Also where does the second hole go on the return line(where the 2 paint stains are in the photo above) or in the line before the heater like in the (the liquidator diagram) I would think you would want the second hole after the heater so you wouldn't have super chlorinated water flowing thru the heater?
    18x36 inground white plaster 3ft-6ft (21,000 gallons) / Coverstar auto-cover / Jandy Stealth 1.5hp pump / Jandy DE 60sf filter / Jandy LXI 400k btu gas heater / Jandy Aquapure 1400 SWG / Polaris 380

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    Mod Squad JohnT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtpatter
    The Liquidator looks like a novel idea. However, I don't see where you can buy one or how much they cost. Also liquid chlorine is hard to find in my area can you substitute bleach instead.
    Buy it here https://poolandspawarehouse.com/ and yes, you can use liquid bleach.
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    Does the cost of the liquidator really warrant the benefits over just a standard chlorinator. To me the hassel of having to deal with Liquid Chlorine over just pucks is really a drawback. I know you said I could use bleach but I assume you would need twice as much bleach 6%(bleach) vs 12%(Liquid Chlorine). Has anyone on this board used the Liquidator with just bleach?

    Also I am still confused by the installation based on the diagram included in thier instructions you place one hole in the line before the skimmer basket and the other in the line before the heater? Based on this diagram it looks as if the chlorine would just go in a circle and never get to the pool? Plus you would have highly chlorinated water running thru all your equipment and by using bleach instead a liquid chlorine I would think the risk of corrosion would be worse. Is the diagram they provide really accurate? How does the chlorine get to the pool based on this diagram. Any help in telling me where exactly I should drill my holes based on my plumbing pic above would be appreciated.

    Thanks
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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    The Liquidator works on the pressure difference across the pump to get water to flow through. That does mean that the chlorine will be flowing through your plumbing, however the chlorine is added very slowly so the chlorine level in the plumbing isn't really all that high.

    Some tiny portion of the water does go around in a circle, but the vast majority of the water goes on past the Liquidator intake and on to the pool.
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    Ohm_Boy's Avatar
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    Has anyone on this board used [...] just bleach?
    You're new here, aren't you?

    Seriously though, we are all about using bleach. It's the same sodium hypochlorite as any liquid chlorine, and has fewer undesirable side effects than virtually any other sanitizing method.

    You'll see references to 'BBB', which around here stands for Bleach, Baking Soda, and Borax. This simple yet magical method of pool chemistry management is, in the vast majority of opinions on this board, the best, easiest and most manageable way to maintain a pool's chemistry.

    Spend a few moments browsing through the stickies, and you'll quickly see why.
    [center:1kpalu48]Helpful Links: Pool School | CYA/Chlorine Chart | Pool Calculator[/center:1kpalu48]

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    Quote Originally Posted by rtpatter
    Does the cost of the liquidator really warrant the benefits over just a standard chlorinator. To me the hassel of having to deal with Liquid Chlorine over just pucks is really a drawback. I know you said I could use bleach but I assume you would need twice as much bleach 6%(bleach) vs 12%(Liquid Chlorine). Has anyone on this board used the Liquidator with just bleach?
    A standard chlorinator is typically used to hold Trichlor tabs/pucks and you need to remember that for every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also adds 6 ppm to Cyanuric Acid (CYA). So you will build up CYA levels in the pool quite rapidly. If you are adding just 2 ppm FC in the pool every day, and that's probably a low amount depending on sunlight and usage, that's an increase in CYA of 36 ppm per month or over 200 ppm in 6 months. The only way CYA gets reduced is via dilution, but splash-out and backwashing are unlikely to dilute enough unless your pool is small or your season is much shorter than 6 months. You have the same situation with your current floating feeder which is what I used to have and then ran into problems in my pool after 1.5 years of use.

    CYA reduces chlorine's effectiveness so that roughly speaking the amount of actual disinfecting and oxidizing chlorine is proportional to the ratio of FC to CYA. So a higher CYA level requires a higher FC level in order to prevent algae growth. In a manually dosed pool, the minimum FC level to prevent algae growth is around 7.5% of the CYA level.

    You can operate the pool with higher CYA, but would need to either increase the FC level which would require using supplemental chlorine (chlorinating liquid or unscented bleach) which defeats the purpose of the chlorinator, or you'd have to use an alagecide such as PolyQuat 60 or a phosphate remover on a weekly basis to prevent algae growth and that's on the order of $2 or more per week in extra chemicals.

    You can minimize the amount of chlorine that is needed, and therefore the number of trips to the store to buy more chlorine, by using a pool cover that protects the pool from the UV rays of sunlight. I have an opaque electric safety cover and only have to manually add chlorine twice a week because the chlorine usage is not more than 1 ppm FC per day and that's with near daily use of the pool (cover open about 1-2 hours each day; 3-4 hours on weekends). If I didn't have the pool cover, I'd buy The Liquidator.

    It is true that even with The Liquidator, you need to haul heavy chlorine to refill it (you're mostly hauling water). The only truly automatic and easy system with minimal maintenance that doesn't increase CH or CYA levels is to get a saltwater chlorine generator (SWG) system that makes chlorine directly in the pool itself using the pool's salt.

    Richard
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    IkeRay's Avatar
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    OP the "effects" of bleach on a pool :P

    before:


    after:


    the dates are a bit deceiving there. I added the first bunch of bleach on April 1st, and it was near that quality by April 8th (just 1 week later). I also had a case of the pool hadn't been run in a good 8 months and had lots of debris on bottom.

    it does take twice as much (6%) bleach as (12%) chlorinating liquid, and in that case, do the math on price per concentrate, sometimes the pool store IS cheaper for liquid chlorine. why use trichlor when you can get bleach for ~$1.50/gal (tops) and only have to add a gallon a day, as opposed to having to run a chlorinator and then shock once a week. Then, at the end of the season, do a partial drain to bring your CYA back down. not to mention the pucks cost $1.75/lb (when bought in bulk even) and you have to buy dichlor granules (which are also close to $1.50/lb).

    the cost benefits of bleach/liquid chlorine are amazing, but the ease of maintaining the pool with the BBB is even more amazing.

    Does the cost of the liquidator really warrant the benefits over just a standard chlorinator. To me the hassel of having to deal with Liquid Chlorine over just pucks is really a drawback.
    someone linked before a place, liquidator is ~$80 iirc, any other chlorinator (of quality) will be the same or more. the liquidator is simple enough to use, as far as I can tell, and pucks are actually quite annoying. as well as you won't be fretting about your CYA climbing.
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    I can't tell you the complete operating costs yet... but by March of next year I will have one year of usage. I am keeping a detail log which I track as much as I can to include usage and prices. I just hooked up the Liquidator on 2/9/08. So far I have used 12.53 gal of Bleach via the Liquidator and also used 3.31 gal of Bleach by manual pouring. The usage is a tad high for I tested the Liquidator wide open for a 24hr time frame which emptied almost all the bleach into my pool which rose my FCL to about 10ppm. My estimated costs since Jan 1 08 is $25.18.

    I am using much more Muriatic Acid: $51.30 (11.41 gal) then I like but it's the nature of my water for some reason (new pool)....
    20k Gunite/Prism Blue-Pebblesheen, Pentair Tagelus TA-100D Sand Filter, Heliocol Solar Water Heater, 2 bubblers and 2 waterfalls installed 2007, 3hp IntelliFlo VS Pump 011018 installed 2013, Aquabot Turbo T4 RC and Stenner 45MHP10 w/The Liquidator container installed 2012.
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  13. Back To Top    #13
    Where did you find a Liquidator for $80 bucks? The one at www.poolandspawarehouse.com is $147. I've actually been using the BBB method for a couple of years. When we bought the house the pool was on baquacil and I learned the hard way how crappy and expensive Bauqa was. I been pouring in Chlorine ever since and supplementing with a trichlor floater however I want get the floater out the pool for good if possible. The liquidator seems like the right idea but $147 vs $80 for a standard puck chlorinator seems like a big difference. PLus I wondering long term how the plastic will hold up to constant bleach eating at it. But if I can find one for $80 I'd more likely to give it a shot.
    18x36 inground white plaster 3ft-6ft (21,000 gallons) / Coverstar auto-cover / Jandy Stealth 1.5hp pump / Jandy DE 60sf filter / Jandy LXI 400k btu gas heater / Jandy Aquapure 1400 SWG / Polaris 380

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    PLus I wondering long term how the plastic will hold up to constant bleach eating at it.
    RT,

    The clorox is no different than the chlorine you're getting from the pucks other than it has no CYA...the pucks do. The bleach is harmless to the liner.
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  15. Back To Top    #15
    I was referring to the plastic on the Liquidator. I am already using bleach in the pool with minimal effects on the liner.
    18x36 inground white plaster 3ft-6ft (21,000 gallons) / Coverstar auto-cover / Jandy Stealth 1.5hp pump / Jandy DE 60sf filter / Jandy LXI 400k btu gas heater / Jandy Aquapure 1400 SWG / Polaris 380

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    IkeRay's Avatar
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    I believe it's the same container that they use to hold bleach anyways. Bleach comes in plastic containers to begin with, plastic is quite resilient to a lot of things, even acid comes in plastic.

    As far as the price, I guess I misread someone's post. They were talking about the cost difference from the 8-gal to the 4-gal liquidator. Even more so, it was $40 difference, I don't know WHERE $80 came from.

    But if you want to go dichlor chlorinator, I also suggest rainbow units, very reliable. But if you really want to go cheap, like I did when I was using tablets, I bought a $15 unit at Home Depot on clearance for $10. it worked well for the month I used it, and my brother still uses the same unit, been using it for a year and a half now with no problems, but now I'm trying to convince him to go BBB.
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    We have large plastic bleach drums at work that have been in service for 10 years or more. I'm not sure of the concentration, but it is used in the cooling towers and it's a safe bet it is highly concentrated.
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