New pool....need chlorine!!!!!!

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R

rockyboy

0
Jul 13, 2007
180
Hey all....
Just now getting the pool filled for the first time and have the following from the TF-100:

FC= 0
CC= 0
TC= 0
pH= 8.2
T/A= 70
CH= 8
CYA< 20
Temp= 65

Have not fired up the Autopilot yet but plan to add the salt later this evening.

The pool is a gecian L and is around 34000 gallons: 16x24x42, 3' to 8' on the diving end

The pool has a vinyl liner

No metals

Water is clear...maybe a little cloudy with the lights on but you can definitely see the drain covers clearly

We have a TA100 sand filter


I know there are options besides the pools store to get the chlorine up before the autopilot gets going. Any suggestions as far as where I need to go from here? Thanks!!!!!!!!
 
You need to manually add chlorine at least once a day, best in the evening, until you can get the SWG running. I suggest adding one gallon of 6% bleach each evening till the SWG is running.

You should keep PH between 7.2 and 7.8. PH is best brought down with muriatic acid.

Bring the CYA level up to between 60 and 80. Don't add it all at once, try putting in perhaps 3/4s of the amount and then wait a week, test the CYA again and adjust from there. You might start with 15 or 16 lbs. Remember that if you add CYA/stabilizer that it can take a while to dissolve, if added to the skimmer you need to not backwash/clean the filter for a week.

Add salt.
 

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Jason....using your pool calculator with my numbers, I get the following:

FC add 278 oz of 6% bleach with a goal of 4

pH add 40 oz of 31.45% muriatic acid with a goal of 7.5

TA add 236 oz of baking soda with a goal of 100

CH add 893 oz of calcium chloride with a goal of 260 (vinyl pool however)

CYA add 179 oz of stabilizer with a goal of 40

So I need to add bleach over time instead of adding the 278 oz at once? Also, when should I add the acid and stabilizer? You didn't mention TA, should I wait on that for now? Thanks!
 
The FC target before you add CYA is 2. 24 hours after you add the first batch of CYA the target should go up to 4. A day or two after that you can turn on the SWG. It works well to add chlorine once a day in the evening.

I would bring the PH down to between 7.2 and 7.4 because it is just going to go up again.

Your TA goal should be between 60 and 90, so it is fine right now. You will probably need to bring it up a little fairly soon, so test again the day after adding the acid.

Ignore calcium, you don't need it.

Your CYA goal with a SWG should be 60 to 80, but don't add it all at once. Put in about 2/3rds now, wait a week, and then adjust from there.
 
It sounds like the CYA isn't something that has to be adjusted on a regular basis which might help with the cost. I am anxious to get the pool water in shape and have not developed the patience prescribed by so many on this forum :wink:

If I used the liquid, how long before I can get an accurate reading. Also with the pool calculator, it shows I need 179 oz by weight or 186 oz by volume. Is the liquid product the one the 186 oz is for?
 
If you use the liquid stabilizer you will need to follow the directions on the label. The Pool Calculator doesn't have a calculation for the liquid form. The fluid oz measure is for measuring CYA crystals in a measuring cup instead of on a scale.
 
added bleach last night (178 oz) and have the following this morning:

FC 3
CC 0
TC 3
pH 7.5 - 7.8
T/A 70
CH 110
CYA 30
Salt 3500
temp 60
A local pool service last night got much different numbers:

FC 0 (before bleach)
pH 6.5
TA 65
CH 100
CYA 30
Salt 2600

The pH....maybe he was colored blind but the salt is the kicker. I added 640 lbs to a 33500 gal pool and pool pilot says 3500. The store said 2600 but my test strips confirm 3500. The store used a little electrode pen or something. Any concerns? Do I need to add some more bleach to get to 4?
 
Both the sensor in the Pool Pilot and the test strips are more accurate than the common electronic testers. I would go with your numbers and assume that your salt level is just fine.

All of the other numbers agree fairly well except for the PH. Again, I would tend to go with your numbers for PH.
 

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There are many possible reasons for cloudy water. By far the most common is algae. If the water gets cloudy and the FC goes to zero then it is most likely algae and you need to shock the pool. The second cause is problems with the filter. The filter might need backwashing, or longer pump run times, or you might have left the valve in circulate instead of filter. Third would be PH getting too high. Make sure PH stays between 7.2 and 7.8. There are many more after that, if none of those helps get current test readings and tell us in more detail just how the water looks, particularly what color it is.
 
Ok...the filter is oversized for this pool and is only running around 15psi and the starting point was 12psi. It is in the filter position and the pump has been running around the clock. The pool sat for some time before I added the chlorine last night and the water does have a green tint to it. Nothing hanging off the walls like moss or anything but the steps got a ring pretty fast even though the water was white capping due to the wind. With the SWG in boost on Wednesday, the FC came up to 2. However, when I took a sample to the pool store last night, the FC was zero. Starting to sound like algae is the most likely culprit. Can algae be a problem when the water temp has been mostly in the 50's? The pH may be a bit high but not off the charts. Any recommendations on shocking? Use what and how much for a 33,500 gallon pool?
 
Algae can grow at cold temperatures, though it often doesn't and when it does grow it grows much more slowly than at warmer temperatures. However, high PH reduces the effectiveness of chlorine, which might have contributed.

I suggest bringing the PH down below 7.5 and then adding 7 gallons of 6% bleach. If you can do this in the early evening, wait an hour or two and then bring the FC level back up to 13 from where ever it gets, then test again in the morning and hopefully your FC level will hold overnight and you will be done.
 
Rocky,

and the water does have a green tint to it.
Click to expand...
You have algae. You must shock the pool to get rid of it. Don't do it with the SWG but with bleach.

Green water = algae....the exceptions to that are so few and far between as to not consider them, IMO.

BTW, also with few exceptions, trust your own test results.
 
7 gallons of bleach???? :shock:

I added a gallon last night and smelled it for a long time. This is in place of shock that is sold in a bag right? Add all at once?

Did you really mean bring FC back up to 13?
 
7 gallons of bleach????

I added a gallon last night and smelled it for a long time. This is in place of shock that is sold in a bag right? Add all at once?

Did you really mean bring FC back up to 13?
Click to expand...

I didn't say it but Jason really meant it. The smell, surprisingly, is from not adding enough chlorine.....not from too much. Read all the "Stickies" above........... lot's of good info in there.................. but follow as Jason is suggesting to rid your pool of the algae.
 
This morning chlorine is not a problem!
FC 16
CC 0
TC 16
pH 7.8 - 8.2
TA 70
CYA 0
Tem 65

I guess I was expecting a miracle overnight and the water would be crystal clear. While better (I can see the main drain covers) it was still a bit murky especially noticeable in the deep end. The pump has been on around the clock and even though the psi didn't require it, I backwashed this morning after I brushed the entire pool. Although not noticeably dirty, the brushing did stir up a good bit of stuff. Hopefully stirring things up will get everything to the filter. Nothing is alive in there anymore but there really isn't a strong chlorine smell this morning. I will try to get the pH down with some acid today. Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance

BTW, my son who is not colored blind, says the water looks blue green to him.
 

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