I just filled my 12'x30" pool(assuming it is around 2300 gallons because we accidentally let it fill over) and my children were in such a rush to get in so I didn't have all the chemicals I needed prior to using the pool. First, I tested the water for chlorine, bromine, and pH. Everything was perfect with just public city water. I'm not exactly sure on what kind of filter we have, but it takes cartridge A filters. It has also been running 24/7 since we filled it and it has been 3 days. The pool brand is Intex and it is a vinyl liner and metal frame. The water initially was clear, I first put in a 3" chlorine tablet. Still clear. Now I can't remember I could have possibly put in 8oz of aquachem algaecide 50%. That made it a little cloudy. The kids got in about 2 hours after that. I tested it a little bit after they got out and it still seemed fine with CL, BR, and pH levels. The next day, yesterday, I tested it and the pH was to low, around 6.9. I think I added 11 teaspoons of aquachem Sanitizer(because I read somewhere I needed to sanitize, chlorinate, shock, then algaecide but I obviously didnt do it in that order because my kids were too excited about it). The container says to add 1 teason per 200gallons as initial treatment. Then I added 3.6oz of aquachem pH UP(my husband must have done the math wrong) and then the kids got back in a couple hours after that. Last night, we had a torrential downpour all night and it topped off the water in the pool and it cut the filter pump off and I checked the levels this morning, CL is between 1.0-1.5, BR is between 2.2-3.4, and pH is the same, around 6.9. i havent put anything in it yet, and i turned the filter pump back on about an hour ago. The water is still as cloudy as it was when I put the algaecide in. What should I do now? Should I shock it? Should I leave it alone? I'll try to post a picture soon. Please help! My youngest son would love to swim in it today as the weather is very nice!! thanks.
I just filled my 2300 gallon pool(12'x30"), now what do i do
- Thread starter autumnrstarr
- Start date
Re: I just filled my 2300 gallon pool(12'x30"), now what do
1 Welcome!
2 Raise the PH to mid 7 range
3 Add 6% bleach to raise FC level
4 STOP the algaecide
5 Read pool school. Do you have a SWG? Do you have any CYA in the pool?
1 Welcome!
2 Raise the PH to mid 7 range
3 Add 6% bleach to raise FC level
4 STOP the algaecide
5 Read pool school. Do you have a SWG? Do you have any CYA in the pool?
Re: I just filled my 2300 gallon pool(12'x30"), now what do
thanks so much for the quick reply!! I'm trying to figure out the formula to raise the pH. I'm so frustrated and feel rushed because it's Saturday and my 3 year old wants to hop in but I want to make sure I take care of these issues BEFOREHAND!! For a 10,000gal pool, it says to add 12oz of pH up if the level is 6.8-7.1. I have a 2300gal pool. I've added 3.6oz yesterday, so how much do you think I should add today? After adding 3.6oz, the pH did not seem to budge. It remained around 6.8-6.9. I'm kind of estimating because I'm not sure of the exact gallons my pool is, but I think I should add 2oz. Also, I read on my chlorine tablet container that it has a big yellow sticker reading 5.1% oxidizer(i dont know if that means anything I need to know) and it is trichloro-s-triazinetrione so it is not FC. However, I DO have bleach. How much do you think I should add to a 2300 gal pool? I do NOT have a SWG. I have a Krystal Clear Model 603 Filter Pump, this came with the pool. I have read the reviews for it, and I understand I MAY have to buy a better pump but I didn't want to go spend all this money if it's just a cheap little pool for children under the age of 6. They have played in it two days, and they had a blast. We havent decided if we are going to keep it up through the winter but because it's so small, I'm sure we will take it down. I do NOT have any CYA in the pool either. I only put sanitizer in. I bought a cheap little aquachem tester tube with the yellow and red drops to test chlorine and pH. Would you recommend a better kit? And I suppose I should purchase some stabilizer, correct?
woodyp said:
thanks so much for the quick reply!! I'm trying to figure out the formula to raise the pH. I'm so frustrated and feel rushed because it's Saturday and my 3 year old wants to hop in but I want to make sure I take care of these issues BEFOREHAND!! For a 10,000gal pool, it says to add 12oz of pH up if the level is 6.8-7.1. I have a 2300gal pool. I've added 3.6oz yesterday, so how much do you think I should add today? After adding 3.6oz, the pH did not seem to budge. It remained around 6.8-6.9. I'm kind of estimating because I'm not sure of the exact gallons my pool is, but I think I should add 2oz. Also, I read on my chlorine tablet container that it has a big yellow sticker reading 5.1% oxidizer(i dont know if that means anything I need to know) and it is trichloro-s-triazinetrione so it is not FC. However, I DO have bleach. How much do you think I should add to a 2300 gal pool? I do NOT have a SWG. I have a Krystal Clear Model 603 Filter Pump, this came with the pool. I have read the reviews for it, and I understand I MAY have to buy a better pump but I didn't want to go spend all this money if it's just a cheap little pool for children under the age of 6. They have played in it two days, and they had a blast. We havent decided if we are going to keep it up through the winter but because it's so small, I'm sure we will take it down. I do NOT have any CYA in the pool either. I only put sanitizer in. I bought a cheap little aquachem tester tube with the yellow and red drops to test chlorine and pH. Would you recommend a better kit? And I suppose I should purchase some stabilizer, correct?
Re: I just filled my 2300 gallon pool(12'x30"), now what do
Ok, a couple of things:
Read pool school (link in the upper right of each page)
You do have some CYA in your water because you are using trichlor pucks, they will add FC and CYA to your water, you just need to make sure you don't add too much, so keep count for now.
Most pH test kits only read down to 6.8 so it may be MUCH lower, keep adding the amount you are doing and retest in a few hours, hopefully things will stabilize some in a few days. The little OTO/pH test kit you have now can be enough if you keep count on things you add to your water, and if your lucky, this is a lot better than the test strips, since at least you get a good accurate number for chlorine and pH within the range of the test. Having said that a better kit is always good, since you already have the OTO kit, you might consider the TFTestkits TF-50, but this is up to you.
Ike
Ok, a couple of things:
Read pool school (link in the upper right of each page)
You do have some CYA in your water because you are using trichlor pucks, they will add FC and CYA to your water, you just need to make sure you don't add too much, so keep count for now.
Most pH test kits only read down to 6.8 so it may be MUCH lower, keep adding the amount you are doing and retest in a few hours, hopefully things will stabilize some in a few days. The little OTO/pH test kit you have now can be enough if you keep count on things you add to your water, and if your lucky, this is a lot better than the test strips, since at least you get a good accurate number for chlorine and pH within the range of the test. Having said that a better kit is always good, since you already have the OTO kit, you might consider the TFTestkits TF-50, but this is up to you.
Ike
Re: I just filled my 2300 gallon pool(12'x30"), now what do
okay thanks! I started reading some of the pool school, and I'll finish it. I just washed off the filter for the first time(it was dirty for only two days usage and the really heavy rain--we had two tornados touch down in our city last night too) and I added 2oz of pH UP. I'll wait a little bit, and add a little bleach. We've decided to go to the beach today, so that will give the filter time to help distribute the chemicals and I'll test again later today. Thanks for the help and quick replies!!
okay thanks! I started reading some of the pool school, and I'll finish it. I just washed off the filter for the first time(it was dirty for only two days usage and the really heavy rain--we had two tornados touch down in our city last night too) and I added 2oz of pH UP. I'll wait a little bit, and add a little bleach. We've decided to go to the beach today, so that will give the filter time to help distribute the chemicals and I'll test again later today. Thanks for the help and quick replies!!
Re: I just filled my 2300 gallon pool(12'x30"), now what do
ONE puck is only worth around 3 ppm of CYA-fully dissolved. You should buy some CYA/stabilizer/conditioner from WallyWorld to raise CYA to 30 so it will HOLD FC. It'll burn off too quickly without it.
ONE puck is only worth around 3 ppm of CYA-fully dissolved. You should buy some CYA/stabilizer/conditioner from WallyWorld to raise CYA to 30 so it will HOLD FC. It'll burn off too quickly without it.
Re: I just filled my 2300 gallon pool(12'x30"), now what do
A little update, I put 2oz of pH UP in and about 5oz 6%bleach in earlier, and I can definitely see a difference, the water is a little clearer. Havent tested it again yet.
A little update, I put 2oz of pH UP in and about 5oz 6%bleach in earlier, and I can definitely see a difference, the water is a little clearer. Havent tested it again yet.
Re: I just filled my 2300 gallon pool(12'x30"), now what do
"Quaternary ammonia algaecide, also called Quats, are the most cost-effective product to use as both an algaecide and an algaestat. Effective in both capacities, quats work best against green algae and kill algae growth through cellular membrane disruption. While quats do not case staining, foaming can occur, especially when not used properly."
"Quats:- the largest selling, lowest priced algaecides. These are most often found in active concentrations of 5-10%. Such "quaternary ammonium salts" are surfactants and if added in excess, will cause foaming on the pool surface. Surfactants lower the surface tension of the water and "wet" algae cell walls. This "wetting" splits open the cell wall and kills the algae. Quats require lower concentrations and amounts than polyquats to achieve the same level of prevention. Quats are most often used as the preventative while polyquats are most often used to get rid of existing algae."
Although adding it was not really needed it may actually buy you some time during which algae will have a hard time growing until you finish pool school and get a handle on balancing your water chemistry.
Again, you're going to need a proper test kit. Once you get your test kit post results here. Then we'll help you get your TA dialed in. In the meantime it wont hurt to keep using the trichlor tablets. Just keep track of exactly how many you've used so we know how much stablizer your adding to the water.
The yellow shaded side of your kit is the OTO test. It tests for EITHER chlorine or bromine, not both. Unless you're actually using bromine you should only be referring to the chlorine scale. As far as being "perfect" with just city water that's not true. Most city water has pretty low FC, low TA, and no CYA.autumnrstarr said:
The Aquachem Algaecide 50% is Allkyl-dimethyl-benzyl-ammonium-chloride also known as a "Quat" algaecide. Here are two descriptions of that type of product.
"Quaternary ammonia algaecide, also called Quats, are the most cost-effective product to use as both an algaecide and an algaestat. Effective in both capacities, quats work best against green algae and kill algae growth through cellular membrane disruption. While quats do not case staining, foaming can occur, especially when not used properly."
"Quats:- the largest selling, lowest priced algaecides. These are most often found in active concentrations of 5-10%. Such "quaternary ammonium salts" are surfactants and if added in excess, will cause foaming on the pool surface. Surfactants lower the surface tension of the water and "wet" algae cell walls. This "wetting" splits open the cell wall and kills the algae. Quats require lower concentrations and amounts than polyquats to achieve the same level of prevention. Quats are most often used as the preventative while polyquats are most often used to get rid of existing algae."
Although adding it was not really needed it may actually buy you some time during which algae will have a hard time growing until you finish pool school and get a handle on balancing your water chemistry.
Santizing and chlorinating are the same thing. Shocking is a process which involves chlorinating to a very high "shock" level until there are no active organics left in the water. Aquachem Sanitizer is Sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione dihydrate also know as "dichlor." 11 tsp is around 1.5 dry oz of dichlor which would only raise your FC by 2.7, your CYA by 2.5.
Aquachem pH up is just Sodium Carbonate. You can buy this at the grocery store for much less in the laundry isle. It's called Arm & Hammer Washing Soda. If your pH is truly 6.9 you need to raise it to at least 7.5. You will need to add either 9.3 oz of Washing Soda (pH up if you still have some) or add 20 oz of 20 Mule Team Borax which is also found in the laundry isle. Adding the borax will increase your TA a bit more which you probably need anyway but we won't know until you get a proper test kit.
Definitely start with raising your pH like I mentioned above. If you can recall, let us know exactly how much Aquachem sanitizer and how many tablets you've used in total so we can estimate your CYA level and give you a FC level to shoot for and a shock level if needed. Once we know that we can suggest an amount of stablizer to add to get you up to a decent level to protect against UV loss.
Again, you're going to need a proper test kit. Once you get your test kit post results here. Then we'll help you get your TA dialed in. In the meantime it wont hurt to keep using the trichlor tablets. Just keep track of exactly how many you've used so we know how much stablizer your adding to the water.
Re: I just filled my 2300 gallon pool(12'x30"), now what do
@JesseWV I bought these chemicals before I even read anything on the internet about treating pools. After buying them, I then read online that I can substitute other things for them. And I only use chlorine, not bromine. I was just reading what was on the test kit before I knew that bromine was another treatment. I honestly do not want to spend much more on the pool simply because I have children under the age of 6 who just stand in it and splash but I would like to keep it as safe and clean as possible inexpensively. I'll keep a log of what chemicals i have put in so far, and see if I have any other issues and if you guys could help. Thanks!
@JesseWV I bought these chemicals before I even read anything on the internet about treating pools. After buying them, I then read online that I can substitute other things for them. And I only use chlorine, not bromine. I was just reading what was on the test kit before I knew that bromine was another treatment. I honestly do not want to spend much more on the pool simply because I have children under the age of 6 who just stand in it and splash but I would like to keep it as safe and clean as possible inexpensively. I'll keep a log of what chemicals i have put in so far, and see if I have any other issues and if you guys could help. Thanks!
Re: I just filled my 2300 gallon pool(12'x30"), now what do
You're going to have to shock your pool since it is cloudy. Ideally before you start the process it would be nice to know how much Small Pool Sanitizer you've added in total and how many tablets the pool has used so far. Even then shocking will be a guessing game without a FAS/DPD kit to see where you're at during the process.
Warning: Below are instructions based purely on guesswork which is your only option without a proper test kit.
Based on just the chemical additions you mentioned here, you probably don't have a CYA higher than 10.
You could add 7 oz of the Small Pool Sanitizer. This would get your FC up above shock level and give you around 20 CYA.
Test FC the next morning, If your test kit shows anything in range (it should be dark orange) the next morning you should add another 4 oz to keep it at shock level during the day.
Test after the sun goes down and add another 5 oz if the level is not staying "off the charts."
At this point your CYA should be around 35. I would stop using the dichlor and switch to just bleach if you still have cloudy water.
Adding 48oz of bleach with a CYA of 35 will add 10ppm FC. If your OTO test reads 5ppm this will get you back above shock level.
You're going to have to shock your pool since it is cloudy. Ideally before you start the process it would be nice to know how much Small Pool Sanitizer you've added in total and how many tablets the pool has used so far. Even then shocking will be a guessing game without a FAS/DPD kit to see where you're at during the process.
Warning: Below are instructions based purely on guesswork which is your only option without a proper test kit.
Based on just the chemical additions you mentioned here, you probably don't have a CYA higher than 10.
You could add 7 oz of the Small Pool Sanitizer. This would get your FC up above shock level and give you around 20 CYA.
Test FC the next morning, If your test kit shows anything in range (it should be dark orange) the next morning you should add another 4 oz to keep it at shock level during the day.
Test after the sun goes down and add another 5 oz if the level is not staying "off the charts."
At this point your CYA should be around 35. I would stop using the dichlor and switch to just bleach if you still have cloudy water.
Adding 48oz of bleach with a CYA of 35 will add 10ppm FC. If your OTO test reads 5ppm this will get you back above shock level.
Re: I just filled my 2300 gallon pool(12'x30"), now what do
I 100% agree with Jesse's suggestion. About one bag (16oz) of the sanitizer will be about all you need for your CYA level. Don't use any more, unless you drain the pool. After you clear up the pool maintaining it will be a snap. Before you swim....quickly test your water. If you're test on the chlorine show's any yellow...go swimming. Add 2 cups of bleach when you're done. If there's no color on the chlorine test....add 2 cups bleach.....stir....go swimming. Don't put much money besides a few simple basics into this pool. What's the worse that could happen....it turns green. If it does, just dump it and re-fill. Then go swimming.
I 100% agree with Jesse's suggestion. About one bag (16oz) of the sanitizer will be about all you need for your CYA level. Don't use any more, unless you drain the pool. After you clear up the pool maintaining it will be a snap. Before you swim....quickly test your water. If you're test on the chlorine show's any yellow...go swimming. Add 2 cups of bleach when you're done. If there's no color on the chlorine test....add 2 cups bleach.....stir....go swimming. Don't put much money besides a few simple basics into this pool. What's the worse that could happen....it turns green. If it does, just dump it and re-fill. Then go swimming.
Re: I just filled my 2300 gallon pool(12'x30"), now what do
Here is a list of the total amount of chemicals I have put into the pool::
1-3" chlorine tablet(still in the floater)
8oz. algaecide
11 teaspoons of Sanitizer
5.6oz pH UP
5oz. 6%bleach
I tested this morning, and the chlorine reads between 1.0-1.5, pH is between 7.2-7.6. The pool is MUCH clearer!! But not 100%. I'd say about 75%. I still have pH UP left, but once I run out of that, I'll use baking soda instead to keep $$ down. Any recommendations to get pool 100% clear? Maybe purchase some stabilizer? Filter pump has been running nonstop. Thanks to everyone who has been helping!
Here is a list of the total amount of chemicals I have put into the pool::
1-3" chlorine tablet(still in the floater)
8oz. algaecide
11 teaspoons of Sanitizer
5.6oz pH UP
5oz. 6%bleach
I tested this morning, and the chlorine reads between 1.0-1.5, pH is between 7.2-7.6. The pool is MUCH clearer!! But not 100%. I'd say about 75%. I still have pH UP left, but once I run out of that, I'll use baking soda instead to keep $$ down. Any recommendations to get pool 100% clear? Maybe purchase some stabilizer? Filter pump has been running nonstop. Thanks to everyone who has been helping!
Re: I just filled my 2300 gallon pool(12'x30"), now what do
I think the algaecide is what's causing the cloudiness. It'll go away with time and keeping your FC up. Just keep the pump running and keep the FC up and it should clear soon.
I think the algaecide is what's causing the cloudiness. It'll go away with time and keeping your FC up. Just keep the pump running and keep the FC up and it should clear soon.
Re: I just filled my 2300 gallon pool(12'x30"), now what do
Start the shock process as soon as possible. The longer you wait, the longer it will take. I would go dump 7oz of sanitizer in ASAP. If you are out of Sanitizer, 57oz of bleach will also do the trick you just won't get the added CYA.
Then my above instructions are accurate.autumnrstarr said:
You want Washing Soda, not Baking Soda, to raise the pH. Baking Soda raises TA and pH just a bit.
Keep your filter running except when you need to clean it. Follow the directions in red in my previous post. You will not need to purchase anymore stablizer because the Small Pool Sanitizer already contains stabilizer. You do not want to use more than 16 additional ounces total of this product or you'll end up with too much stablizer.
Start the shock process as soon as possible. The longer you wait, the longer it will take. I would go dump 7oz of sanitizer in ASAP. If you are out of Sanitizer, 57oz of bleach will also do the trick you just won't get the added CYA.
Re: I just filled my 2300 gallon pool(12'x30"), now what do
I thought you shock the pool when there is no more chlorine in it and the pool is getting dirty? If the water is getting clearer, why would I need to shock it?
I thought you shock the pool when there is no more chlorine in it and the pool is getting dirty? If the water is getting clearer, why would I need to shock it?
Re: I just filled my 2300 gallon pool(12'x30"), now what do
Shock is a process - and you have to keep it up until all the algae is dead, otherwise it comes right back, and everything you dumped into the pool was money wasted.
Back to Pool School with you!autumnrstarr said:
Shock is a process - and you have to keep it up until all the algae is dead, otherwise it comes right back, and everything you dumped into the pool was money wasted.
Re: I just filled my 2300 gallon pool(12'x30"), now what do
One of the hardest thing for us to convey to people is the fact that shock is a process and not just a product that you toss in the pool only once. The problem is that we're battling corporate marketing that calls certain products "shock".
Once you realize that shocking requires you to keep the FC at shock level for your CYA until everything is dead and the pool is clear, pool care will be immensely easier for you.
One of the hardest thing for us to convey to people is the fact that shock is a process and not just a product that you toss in the pool only once. The problem is that we're battling corporate marketing that calls certain products "shock".
Once you realize that shocking requires you to keep the FC at shock level for your CYA until everything is dead and the pool is clear, pool care will be immensely easier for you.
I just filled my 2300 gallon pool(12'x30"), now what do i do
You should never have zero chlorine, and if my memory serves me right, with cya of 50, your FC level should never go below 4, otherwise things have a chance to grow.
Chlorine kills and prevents things from growing as long as you have the required minimum.
autumnrstarr said:
You should never have zero chlorine, and if my memory serves me right, with cya of 50, your FC level should never go below 4, otherwise things have a chance to grow.
Chlorine kills and prevents things from growing as long as you have the required minimum.
Re: I just filled my 2300 gallon pool(12'x30"), now what do
Okay, I've read the pool school...but I guess I'm missing things. On the drop test kit that I have, it has CL on the left, and pH on the right. I add five yellow drops and five red drops. On the left, it says that 1.0-1.5 is ideal for CL. on the right, it say 7.6 is ideal. The kit must be wrong then because everyone is telling me otherwise. And i dont know why I'd have algae only hours after I filled the pool up for the first time. The pool got cloudy after i poured algaecide in it...I thought that was for prevention. So, I need to bring my CL level up to a 7? My test kit only goes to a 5!!
Okay, I've read the pool school...but I guess I'm missing things. On the drop test kit that I have, it has CL on the left, and pH on the right. I add five yellow drops and five red drops. On the left, it says that 1.0-1.5 is ideal for CL. on the right, it say 7.6 is ideal. The kit must be wrong then because everyone is telling me otherwise. And i dont know why I'd have algae only hours after I filled the pool up for the first time. The pool got cloudy after i poured algaecide in it...I thought that was for prevention. So, I need to bring my CL level up to a 7? My test kit only goes to a 5!!
Re: I just filled my 2300 gallon pool(12'x30"), now what do
Those kits have had the same suggested ranges for the last half century, with no regard to the relationship between CYA and Chlorine or the idea that pH ideal range may depend on type of pool construction (not all pools are plaster like they almost all were half a century ago).
I think your cloudyness was caused by the Algacide (I may have missed it, did you ever say what type it was?) if so and if it is clearing there is no need to shock, the problem is with the basic OTO chlorine test you have there is no real distiction between free and combined chlorine and it is hard to tell exact chlorine level so doing an overnight chlorine loss test (test for algae in the water) is nearly impossible. So you have some people guessing Algae and others guessing Algaecide for the cause of the cloudyness. I would say if it is clearing, go back to your standard chlorine level, and go from there, if it gets worse shock then, for shocking using the OTO test kit the best you can do is pick an orangish yellow color off the top of the color scale and maintain that, be aware that at extremely high chlorine levels the OTO test changes to an orangish brown, you don't want to get that high.
Those kits have had the same suggested ranges for the last half century, with no regard to the relationship between CYA and Chlorine or the idea that pH ideal range may depend on type of pool construction (not all pools are plaster like they almost all were half a century ago).
I think your cloudyness was caused by the Algacide (I may have missed it, did you ever say what type it was?) if so and if it is clearing there is no need to shock, the problem is with the basic OTO chlorine test you have there is no real distiction between free and combined chlorine and it is hard to tell exact chlorine level so doing an overnight chlorine loss test (test for algae in the water) is nearly impossible. So you have some people guessing Algae and others guessing Algaecide for the cause of the cloudyness. I would say if it is clearing, go back to your standard chlorine level, and go from there, if it gets worse shock then, for shocking using the OTO test kit the best you can do is pick an orangish yellow color off the top of the color scale and maintain that, be aware that at extremely high chlorine levels the OTO test changes to an orangish brown, you don't want to get that high.