First test results - water chemistry looks terrible?

[Camman]

Don't mean to double post because I put these results in my thread where I introduced myself but I figured it was more appropriate here. My Taylor K-2006 test kit arrived today and after going through the instructions and doing the tests, my results look really abysmal. Ironically since I started adding 1 bottle of bleach per day prior to receiving the test kit my water has actually improved but it still looks like everything is way off. I double checked to make sure I was doing the tests correctly and it appears my water chemistry is just really out of wack, here are my initial results:

Chlorine - the water did not turn pink after adding the DPD powder so I could not continue with the FC and CC portions of the test, does this mean my pool has 0 PPM Chlorine? I have been adding 1 bottle of bleach per night since Sunday, but I have also been finding piles of dead algae that has been whirlpooled to the center of the pool.

PH - Registered less than 7.0 PPM, the scale on the large test cylinder only goes as low as 7.0 and my pH test showed an even lighter shade than what was listed

TA - 30ppm

CYA - the black dot did not dissapear, the solution only became slightly cloud but not enough for the dot to dissapear in the amount of space in the tube, does this indicate extremely low CYA?

CH - 90ppm


So, where do I start? I've been reading pool school and checking the "recommended levels", but I am still unsure if I should start with correcting the pH or shock the pool first or do them simultaneously? It also looks like I really need to add CYA.

Thanks for the help!

 

[Richard320]

Just out of curiosity, is the chlorine/bromine test alongside the pH test shades of pink or yellow? If it's yellow, see what you get. You could, possibly, have such high FC that it bleached out the reagents. Unlikely, since you're killing algae, but if you can test it, do so.

That said, Ph first. Borax is what you want. Then ignore pH until the water's clear. CYA to get to about 30 gets weighed out, put in a sock, hung in front of a return eyeball. It will takes a couple days to dissolve, and a few more to show up on the test. Third comes the shock process. Use the FC value for 30 CYA. Keep it there until the water is clear, etc etc etc. All this in in Pool School under how to shock your pool.

When the water looks clear and FC is holding, your CYA should be about ripe to test again. Test everything. Then we can guide you through the fine tuning. I hope you have the pool calculator bookmarked!

 

[Bama Rambler]

Once you do Richards OTO test suggestion get your TA up to about 70 and then test your pH again and adjust it to about the mid 7's if needed.

After that get enough CYA in there to get to about 30 ppm, and post back the new numbers. Don't worry about the CH. It's fine for a vinyl pool.