Here are my results: Cloudy water currently
ph - 7.2
CL - 1.0
FC - 1.5
CC - 1.0
TA - 160
CH - 230
CYA - 40
ph - 7.2
CL - 1.0
FC - 1.5
CC - 1.0
TA - 160
CH - 230
CYA - 40
Just got my TF-100 -please interpret
- Thread starter BCannon
- Start date
Given cloudy water and CC > 0.5 ... time to follow the Shocking Your Pool process.
Only other thing of note is that your TA is a little high. This can be lowered after you finish the shock process.
EDIT: Are you actually still using your chlorine feeder in your signature? Realize that it is continually making your CYA go up. You are at a perfect level now, but over the summer you need to make sure the CYA does not rise too high and make sure you adjust your FC level to compensate.
Only other thing of note is that your TA is a little high. This can be lowered after you finish the shock process.
EDIT: Are you actually still using your chlorine feeder in your signature? Realize that it is continually making your CYA go up. You are at a perfect level now, but over the summer you need to make sure the CYA does not rise too high and make sure you adjust your FC level to compensate.
I am using the chlorine feeder - this is my first summer as a pool owner - what should I do? Can it be turned off?
How much of Pool School have you read?
Look at How to Chlorinate Your Pool
You should be able to turn it down or just pull all the puck out of it. You will then need an alternate source of chlorine ... liquid (bleach) is the safest as it does not add anything you do not need (like CYA or CH).
Look at How to Chlorinate Your Pool
You should be able to turn it down or just pull all the puck out of it. You will then need an alternate source of chlorine ... liquid (bleach) is the safest as it does not add anything you do not need (like CYA or CH).
OK, thank you. So just to clarify, you are saying that I should add bleach on a regular (daily?) basis to keep my FC level at 3-7 after shocking process is complete?
BCannon said:
Correct. Looks like you are using the poolcalculator to get the 3-7ppm range for a CYA of 40ppm
Really the key is to never let FC get below 3ppm ... a little high is fine and you can swim up to shock FC level (15ppm).
While shocking you need to keep FC ABOVE 15ppm.
Another quick question. While shocking and keeping FC at 15 ppm - when the overnight occurs and it has only dropped to 14 ppm - shocking is complete - correct? Is it safe to swim at that time or do we need to wait until it gets back to the 3-7 range (which would take a while given it will be at 14 ppm)?
When doing the OCLT, you just want to be sure the FC does not drop more than 1ppm from your test the previous night (both when the sun is not up).
Passing that and having CC <= 0.5ppm and having clear water means your are done shocking.
Once the FC drops below your shock level (15ppm) it is safe to swim.
Passing that and having CC <= 0.5ppm and having clear water means your are done shocking.
Once the FC drops below your shock level (15ppm) it is safe to swim.
You can swim any time FC is at or above the minimum, FC is below shock level, CC is 0.5 or lower, and you can see the bottom clearly.
when you say "both when the sun is not up", please explain. If I add bleach to get FC up to 16 PPM at 9 pm - are you saying I should check it again the next morning before sunrise? Confused?
Yes. When dark at night. Test the FC level (at least 1 hour after you last add any chlorine). Leave pump on all the time. Then before the sun comes up test the FC level again.
Read Overnight FC Loss Test which is also linked to in Shocking Your Pool
Read Overnight FC Loss Test which is also linked to in Shocking Your Pool
BCannon said:
Chlorine is only consumed by two things, organics and sunlight. By doing one test after the sun goes down and the second before the sun goes up, you eliminate sunlight as the culprit. Or put another way, if chlorine falls in between those two tests, there must be organics "eating" the chlorine.
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