No FC 2

[gtsdls]

Can't seem to get rid of the cloudy water.

Pool company says to add 20 bags of Calcium hypochlorite shock all at once

Just shocked it again with 2 gallons of liquid 6% plus 2 pounds of dichlor to get the CYA up a little and the ph down Any suggestions?

Saturation index .5
TDS 600
CYA 25
TC 5.5
FC 0
PH 7.7
TA 206
Total hardness 230
Borox ~ 7 ppm (just started using it)
Volume 19200 gallons in-ground

 

[JasonLion]

Welcome to TFP!

You should read the section on how to shock your pool in Pool School. You need to be adding more chlorine at frequent intervals until you can maintain and FC level.

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome

Wow are pool companies can be scary.

20 bags would raise your FC between 59ppm and 90ppm depending on the concentration ... than just seems like a bad idea. Also, cal-hypo has been know to make the water cloudy by itself.

How did you get your test results? Controlling your pool without a good kit (see recommended ones in my sig) is difficult.

According to you results you have 0 FC and 5.5 CC ... is that right? Did you just open the pool and find that you lost a lot of CYA?

Review the Shocking Your Pool process since you have high CC and something that is consuming your FC. This may be difficult as even with a CYA of 25ppm, your FC shock level to stay above is 11ppm ... does your kit test that high?

 

[Richard320]

Those look like Pool Store Test Results.....

But it's obvious you have a problem from the high Combined Chlorine - that's Total Chlorine minus Free Chlorine. You need to shock - verb, not noun - and expect it to take several days to a couple weeks.

First order of business is get a proper test kit. Skip the article, go order a TF100 with the XL option. I also recommend a speedstir. It saves on shipping to get it now, and no one who has one wishes they hadn't bought it.

Once the test kit is ordered, start reading in Pool School. Basics of Chemistry, everything, really, and especially How to shock your pool.

Adding chemicals without having good test results is like painting in a pitch black room.

 

[gtsdls]

I have a TF100 test kit. I'm crosschecking results with 2 different pool companies who use different computerized tests. The CYA was 90. I did a partial water replace that should have brought CYA to 60. The CYA dropped to about that, then dropped to below 20 within a day. The pool has a solar cover, and the area of the country I am in is one of the most overcast in the country. I'm assuming the replies above mean I should continue to incrementally shock the pool, not a massive OD.

 

[Richard320]

Exactly. Keep the FC level up high enough to kill the algae faster than it can reproduce. Constantly, not a one-time shot. You're medicating your pool; you wouldn't take a whole bottle of antibiotics in one shot to kill an infection, you space them out for several days.

 

[gtsdls]

there's no algae. It's cloudy.

 

[jblizzle]

Cloudy could be due to something living in the water. And if you have 5.5 combined chlorine (like you stated ... are you sure you typed the correct letters?), obviously something in your pool needs a lot more FC to get rid of it. We can only go by the data you give us.

 

[gtsdls]

FC back to almost 0
TC is now at 18

 

[jblizzle]

Describe how you get those numbers and what you think they mean. Still not sure they are the correct letters.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone

 

[gtsdls]

I just realized that I should have been using CC not TC.
FC is 0
CC is at 18

 

[jblizzle]

With FC of 0 you were actually correct both ways

With the dropping CYA and high CC it seems like you could have an active case of bacteria converting the CYA to ammonia and thus high CC ... usually not witnessed as it occurs over winter.

The solution is just more chlorine.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone

 

[linen]

I just realized that I should have been using CC not TC.
FC is 0
CC is at 18

Please check those numbers for us one more time. Are you sure that the FC (free chlorine) is 0 and the CC (combined chlorine) is 18?

 

[JasonLion]

Are you sure that the FC (free chlorine) is 0 and the CC (combined chlorine) is 18?

If so, you need to shock the pool. While, if they are the other way around you are doing well.

 

[gtsdls]

It was 18 CC, dropped to 5 at 7AM and I shocked it again.

Now have FC 4, CC .5 and can see the bottom of the pool.

It took 6 shock treatments to bring it down. I used 10 gallons liquid chlorine & 14 dichlor plus Borox depending on test results to keep the rest of the numbers in range.

 

[jblizzle]

You need to follow the Shocking Your Pool process until you are sure everything is gone ... what is your CYA now that you have added a bunch of dichlor (how much did you add 14 lbs?)? Need to know that to know the appropriate FC level to maintain ... both for shocking and when just maintaining the pool.

Post another full set of test results.

 

[march2012]

It was 18 CC, dropped to 5 at 7AM and I shocked it again.

Now have FC 4, CC .5 and can see the bottom of the pool.

It took 6 shock treatments to bring it down. I used 10 gallons liquid chlorine & 14 dichlor plus Borox depending on test results to keep the rest of the numbers in range.

Shocking the pool faq isnt clear on this point. You dont "shock" your pool. You do keep your FC at shock levels at all time. If your shock level of FC is 20 (for your CYA level) then you need to keep your FC above 20 at all times. This could mean adding Chlorine every 30 minutes. To keep it at 20 at all times you might need to take the level to 30 so the next time you check it is still above 20.